Model 100 synthetic stock??

[rmac41]

Does anybody make one? also wondering; this was a very accurate rifle when I put it up 6 years ago, now that I`ve started to hunt again, I can`t make it shoot tight groups. It has a cheap older Tasco world class scope on it, The likely culprit??
This gun would fire 3 shot groups at 100 yds. with the first 2 touching each other and the 3rd about 1 in. high right. I`d love to get that back. I`m going to try a Nicon Prostaf 3-9X 50 scope and see what that does.
Is it practical to use this as a hunting rifle since it`s not been made for some 30 + years. Just wondering if I might be better off to sell it and put the money on something like a Browing Bar.
I have cleaned the bore, however I don`t know how to dissassemble the bolt area for cleaning.
also, can anyone tell me when it was made ss# 160941 ?
The blueing is 80-85 % with the stock much better.
Reblueing good Idea or no?
reason for my qestion on syn. stock is , I have 2 syn bolt guns that the zero has not changed in 12 years. someone told me that can be attributed
to the syn stocks.
this is my first post here , sorry I seem to have rambled so, just glade to find this site.

Thanks so much,
Rick McCullough
Stockbridge, Ga.

[BillH]

"Is it practical to use this as a hunting rifle since it`s not been made for some 30 + years?"
Yes. I use one that takes deer every year.

"I have cleaned the bore, however I don`t know how to dissassemble the bolt area for cleaning."

First remove the magazine, then remove the forearm screw AND the trigger guard screw behind the trigger guard. Now pull the operating handle all the way to the rear. While holding it to the rear, pivot the barrel unit up out of the stock.Remove the gas cylinder cap retainer clip, then the cap. Next, remove the trigger guard housing pin by pulling the slide back to line up the notches in the slides with the pin. The bolt can then be disassembled.

"also, can anyone tell me when it was made ss# 160941 ?"

It may be a 1967. See Winchester model 88 Info

[wachtelhund]

I have two Winchester model 100s, a rifle and a carbine. I use the carbine very gun season. You might try glass bedding the stock to help your groups. I did it and it cut the groups in half. I reload but never worked up an accurate load for this gun. Just load 50 rounds and have been shooting them the last several years. Three or 4 inch groups were good enough for Northern WI deer. But I just recently glass bedded the action and stock, now I think its time to work up an accurate. I took the carbine to the range last week. It shot better than I did. I rezeroed the scope after I zeroed two other guns. I fired my group, more or less rapid fire, it was spread horizonitally, 1 1/4" by 4 1/2". Obviously my old tired eyes had a lot to do with the group. I could not find the link for the bedding instructions, so I just pasted them here.

Dave
dave@deutscherwachtelhund.org

Here it is:

tbailey,
Bedding the Winchester Model 100 is a real project because of its unusual action. If you need to identify the "exact" parts I'm referring to, you can look them up on a drawing at this link.
Exploded Drawing - Win model 100

1.) The first step is to bed the recoil block in place - in a separate operation. This is done with the recoil block screw VERY loose. This screw just has to be there to locate its permanent location in a way that won't allow the recoil block to flex the action when your finished.

2.) Bed the front tip of the stock (for about 1"). This will locate the front of the barrel, so that you'll know exactly where it will end up when you're finished. This step just provides a temporary saddle that will be ground away later.

3.) Bed the trigger guard in place (only necessary on the ends) around the screws.

4.) Cut away about 1/8" of wood from the stock under the barrel (just in front of the gas tube) and bed the barrel to the stock for the next 4". After it cures, separate the barrel from the stock, and grind away the temporary saddle made in step #2.

5.) The receiver needs to be bedded on both sides, along the bottom rear 2.5" along its lower edge, and about 3/8" up each side. Also, skin bed the small contact surface of the barreled action (only around the take down screw).

6.) Be sure that the operating rod guide assembly is absolutely free from any binds, or you will wind up creating a real jammer that will drive you crazy. The operating rod guide assembly should also be deburred along the outer surfaces and lightly oiled.

7.) You can then experiment with "tension bedding" by a adding paper shim to the metal-to-metal contact surface of the recoil block. This "flashback" will get you into shooting the best groups that you've ever seen from any Winchester Model 100. Good luck ....

Well, that's it. If you're looking for your groups to tighten up with the Winchester Model 100, that's how it's done. If you'd like to see more tech tips check out our website at Innovative Technologies - Reloading Equipment