| | #21 |
| Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Katy Texas
Posts: 16
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I went to a gun show in Fort Worth, this past weekend. Unbelievable prices being offered on 1890's. Some appeared to be junk. I have an 1890, manufactured in 1914 (3rd model) Wood is 90% or better, some freckling, no deep pitting on blued parts, barrel is patina, bore is rough, has a tang sight (not original) Screws are 100% as is checkering on hammer. Reinspected at an arsenal at some time ("A" under serial number)Caliber is .22 WRF. Hazard a guess what it would bring?? Bullet Bob |
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| | #22 |
| Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Mis-South
Posts: 2
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It seems that prices are all over the place. The one I purchased was a 2nd model in p % plus condition and I used the Blue Book Of Gun Values which indicated around $800.00, which is what I paid for it. However, I have seen several in the on line auctions in much lower condition for more. I do not have a clue. BBArnold |
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| | #23 |
| Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 2
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Regarding a problem with the tube or insert this is a tough problem to solve. If you cannot repair it as suggested above it may be easier to get another tube since 1890's that are really rough part out quite often. The most common problem is with the carrier that chambers the round. Too many knife points have been used over the last century to extract a jammed round. A bit of trivia regarding my favorite caliber the WRF: Many old timers refer to it as the "Depression Deer Rifle" since it was the cheapest way to kill a deer in the 30's. I've bought and sold numerous 90's over the years and they vary massively in price but all have appreciated considerably in the last 15 years. Barrels are usually leaded up rather than pitted since most shot smokless powder after 1896 and are leaded by sheer virtue of the number of rounds shot. They can be "deleaded" if you know what you're doing. There are virtually 100 points on any 1890 that will grade the gun. The main points when considering functional use are the carrier, the tube, and the bore. You will find great cosmetics on occasion with a leaded bore or bad carrier. Most often the rifle will look used but if properly maintained they shoot forever... Some have been rebarreled so look for matching proofs. Get a good book on 1890's and you won't regret it. Learn about the many variations such as beech front sights, tang sights, solid frames, case-hardened frames, nickel-plated frames, all three models and all calibers. Look for period photos with 1890's featured such as wild west show performers, kids with rabbits, ladies with them, etc., etc.. Many of the true "gallery" guns have drilled receivers for the eye & chain that secured the rifle to rifle rest. I remember these at carnivals as a kid and shot them many times. Takedown models should have matching serial numbers and you will encounter "parts guns"; made up usually from two guns.
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| | #24 |
| Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 2
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Generally the barrel will show more finish than the receiver since they were carried gripped by the receiver. You'll see finger patterns on some where the same person carried it in the same hand. A really fine third model 1890 in any caliber will fetch a premium price. Not usual to see $2500.00 but these are far and few between. Of course a solid frame will bring maybe twice that although I've maybe seen 5 or 6 in my years of collecting and selling them. On the opposite side, you won't see many of them below $300-$500 anymore like just a few years ago. "Trash" guns are usually worth around $200-$300 for parts. So, if you find a good working short, long, WRF, or LR it's probably a good investment. You will also find serial numbers slightly above the published Winchester numbers in the 800K range. Always a good idea to insure it will load to the tube properly and carry the round to the chamber before you buy it. Hope all this helps. There are some rabid 1890 collectors out there. I sold one to a guy in the early 90's that has over 300 of them. He checks his pocket book of serial numbers to see what he's got in a particular serial range when looking at an 1890. Price was never much of a consideration if he wanted a particular gun. |
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| | #25 |
| Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1
| Winchester Model 90
I also have a Model 90 .22 short manufactured 1927 I got from my father . He acquired it in the 1940s. It is in good condition and was always cleaned after shooting. Since I'm in my 70s I don't shoot much any more so I guess I'll sell it. I did not know they were worth that much.
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| | #26 |
| Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 2
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My neighbor has one of these old pumps (grandfathers, I think) and the take-down screw will no longer hold in the receiver because the threads are stripped (in the receiver hole). Any idea how to go about a repair for that issue? It is not in great condition, so collector value is low. Just thought I would ask.
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| | #27 |
| Super Moderator ![]() Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: sawyer, ok
Posts: 1,083
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wookie pm me and i will tell you how to fix it. Steve
__________________ For those who never fought for it, freedom has a taste the protected will never know. |
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| | #28 |
| Suspected Member ![]() |
My local gun shop has a 1890 takedown in 22 WCF. Bore is pretty nice. The rifle is rough on the outside maybe 10-20%. No ammo available to test fire. $395.00. Is it worth it ??
__________________ Thank God we don't get as much Government as we pay for! -Will Rogers |
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| | #29 |
| Senior Member ![]() Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Minn.
Posts: 2,310
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You have a great gun I have the 1906 and will never part with it the tubes on these get dents and jam the shells sometimes I think you can get replacement outer and inner parts for these try numerich if you need some parts they may have some.
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| | #30 |
| Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 2
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@sbowers5 PM sent. Thanks |
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