Custom Gun Finishes.. Duracoat, Cerakote, Robar

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by mustache79, Nov 9, 2011.

  1. mustache79

    mustache79 G&G Newbie

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    Looking a getting a custom finish done on my Magnum Research steel frame Baby Eagle. I have concerns about having a finish mess with the slide action. I've read about people having issues after getting their gun Duracoated, but not so much with Cerakote. Robar offers some awesome finishes like NP3 and Poly T2 but it is really expensive ($300+) Duracoat and Cerakote seem to be more in my price range, but I'd like to get more educated about these finishes before I decide to do something.

    I'm looking for advice on custom finishes based on personal experience as well as advice about where to have the work done. Thanks
  2. BarryHalls

    BarryHalls G&G Enthusiast

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    The epoxy finishes are REALLY though. Just be sure you follow the directions to the letter, and clean/bead blast the materials THOROUGHLY.

    You'll have a hard time tearing up a good epoxy finish.
  3. jforbush

    jforbush G&G Newbie

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    It is all about how the coating is applied. Duracoat, by nature goes on much, much thicker and can be an issue with tighter tolerance areas.

    I have worked with most of them all and Cerakote is by far the more wear resistant coating. It goes on thinner and lasts longer in general. When doing the underside of a slide the applicator must make sure that they don't get carried away. Cerakote works best when its put on thin. Most slides will need to be worked some to get them smoothed out.....anytime you add something no matter how thin it goes on it will affect the mechanics a little.


    Like the post above...prep is key. When media blasting make sure you don't use glass beads. Use aluminum oxide or something like it. I use 120 grit aluminum oxide. Glass beads will polish the surface and that is not what you are looking for.....you want a surface that has been "roughed up" a little.
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2011
  4. blaster

    blaster G&G Enthusiast

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    I only have experience with Dura Coat. I have never had it cause any mechanical problems. as an expirement, I Dura Coated a SKS inside and out. trigger group, inside the action everything but the chamber. bore and bolt. the rifle functions flawlessly. but the SKS is built to survive lots of dirt & abuse. I have coated (the conventional way) about 30 assorted guns including a few semi auto pistols and had no problems with the coating interferng with the functioning of the firearm.
  5. oneoldsap

    oneoldsap G&G Regular

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    You sir , know your stuff . The only thing I can add is that glass bead blasting actually peens the surface , and doesn't provide the TOOTH that the finish needs to stick to . Polished steel will resist rust , bead blasted steel starts to rust immediatly .
  6. jforbush

    jforbush G&G Newbie

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    Thanks! :) I have been doing coating work for a while now and am very, very careful with my prep...I have made the mistakes early on, learned by them and progressed with my skill level. Still have a way to go but IMO in am not too bad at it.

    Well said on the bead blasting note. A lot of people want to bead blast and that is not a good way to prep the surface at all for a coating.
  7. oneoldsap

    oneoldsap G&G Regular

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    I have been doing baked on finishes for several years now myself .
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