Mini 30 jamming & general questions

Discussion in 'The Powder Keg' started by jellydonut, Feb 27, 2006.

  1. jellydonut

    jellydonut G&G Newbie

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    Hi everybody. I have a couple questions about my mini-30:

    Has anyone else had problems with their mini-30 having ammo stick in the chamber? I mean, pretty badly. I have to hammer on the bolt handle with the palm of my hand to get it back open. Kinda dangerous with a live round in there. Sometimes it won't even chamber a round all the way, depending on the individual bullet. It seems to do fine with S&B and Winchester ammo, but doesn't like UMC. The gun seems to have really tight tolerances for a semi-auto or something. I haven't used it much- just sighted it in recently, using some Winchester ammo. Then a few weeks later I tried loading some UMC (or PMC) ammo, and the bullet either stuck in the chamber after chambering all the way, or sticks going in, the bolt only halfway rotating closed (yikes I hope it won't fire when it's only halfway locked). The UMC brass seems to have some very light pitting or small rough spots of some kind.. enough to easily feel with your fingernail. The UMC comes loose in 40rd boxes. Not the highest quality ammo, but I would expect it to fire OK. Does anyone know why, or how to remedy this?

    Has anybody tried laquer-coated (like Wolf) ammo in their mini-30's? Results?

    Anybody else had feed problems where the bullet will hit the feed ramp, causing the very tip of the round to get flattened and smooshed to the side a little? I think that might just be the crappy aftermarket mags.. not sure though. :stupid:

    What is the real accuracy of the mini-30? Besides "my sks is more accurate". Which, from what I've seen, is probably true.. heheh.
    Thanks.
  2. Mooseman684

    Mooseman684 G&G Newbie

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    The mini-30's Are medium rated as far as accuracy, They were not designed to be Tack drivers. Now for your problem, You need to polish or have your chamber polished by a gunsmith if you don't have the proper tools to do it with. All commercial ammo is pretty strict on tolerance so it shouldn't be the ammo causing a problem. Wolf is good ammo and the new polymer coating is very slick and wont gum up the chamber like the old lacuered stuff would in some guns. I have never seen any coating on American made brass cased ammo because its not necessary, Just the foreign steel cased ammo.
    Aftermarket cheap Magazines cause more feeding problems than anything else, so that is more than likely the cause!The Springs weaken, and the feed lips bend and you get Jammed !
    Rich
  3. rugermarksman

    rugermarksman G&G Newbie

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    I have had the many problems with my Mini 30. Rounds don't get stuck in the chamber, but the mag's drive the rounds right onto the feed ramp, denting the front of the bullet. I havn't found any hi- cap mags that work.
    As for the ammunition, I wouldn't be afraid to use Wolf ammo. That's what I put through my Mini 30 and SKS.
    Overall, not the best choice for a rifle, hunting or target. I am currently trying to sell mine or exchange it for an FN Hi-power
  4. NRAJOE

    NRAJOE YOU TALKIN' TO ME!? Forum Contributor

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    Mini 30's are craptacular...
  5. Outriderdark

    Outriderdark G&G Newbie

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    I still love that word....
  6. Joey l mur

    Joey l mur G&G Newbie

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    Ruger Mini 30

    Is your rifle a Ruger mini 30 in 7.62x39? If it is some of the earlier Ruger mini 30s were made with a .308 inch bore rather than a .311 inch bore. If you are using the .311 inch ammunition and your gun bore is a .308 inch I will Give you one guess as to why it is sticking.
    You can cure this by first pushing a single 00 buck shot through the barel and then mike it. If it is .308 inch get a .308 inch neck sizer and hand load. If it is .311 inch clean your gun.:lucky:
  7. jellydonut

    jellydonut G&G Newbie

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    Yeah it's a 7.62x39 mini-30. I'll try that, joey. Thanks for the tip. I've already cleaned it out well.. that's not the problem.. dad and I even tried sanding the chamber very lightly with some 600 grit sandpaper to smooth it up a bit; no dice.
    As for why I have it: It was a gift from Dad. And we've had really decent accuracy with it, actually. Extremely fair accuracy. ;)
    Thank you to you other guys, too. Rushed post, so I may be forgetting something..
    JD
  8. 7mmag6

    7mmag6 G&G Newbie

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    I love rifles there is some I dont like minis, and ahem I feel the heat coming---mosins
  9. Joey l mur

    Joey l mur G&G Newbie

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    No heat

    Guns are like women one will not do every man that is why there are so many models even in play boy.:kinky:
  10. 1812Navy

    1812Navy G&G Newbie

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    Mini-30s & feed problem

    I haven't had the problem with rounds sticking in the chamber, but I have had a lot of feed problems with after-market hi-cap mags. Being in Cali, I'm restricted to 10-rds, and the ones that came with the weapon (I bought it used) are crap. Sloppily made, with lumps and bumps in all the wrong places, etc, they wouldn't even seat properly. I took my handy Dremel tool and some needle-nosed pliers and wasted a couple hours of my life trying to get 4 mags into somewhat decent shape. **
    Oh, and can anyone suggest a mfg for super high-mount scope rings? The previous owner bought a 3-9x42 BEC Ar-15 style scope. I can't find anything that will raise it properly and allow decent eye relief. Using a single Ruger ring attached to the front of the scope and mounted to the rear point works perfectly, but that's not an ideal solution. Any help gratefully appreciate.


    **I found the answer to my mag problem in another thread.
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2006
  11. jellydonut

    jellydonut G&G Newbie

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    Well, I think I finally found the problem causing my bullets to get stuck 95% of the way into the chamber. Well, more than one problem, compounded by another. THe main one is that the chamber had a really bad burr on it, scraping against the cone-shaped cartridge and wedging in there really badly. So Dad used a riffler file and filed it off smooth, and that seemed to really improve feeding. Then I was confused for a while afterwards, because previously Wolf laquered ammo would not fit into the chamber without getting royally stuck. But then I tried loading a couple Ulyanovsk bullets (laquered wolf-style) and they loaded PERFECTLY, but the Olympic (UMC) ammo I was using still jammed almost as badly as ever (scuff marks appeared just in front of the extraction rim on the cartridge, on the back end). Some of it would load and shoot perfectly fine and accurately, but others of the same brand would consistently jam before the bolt could rotate into its locked position. So. We miked (micrometer calipers) the ulyanovsk, some chinese milsurp, and then the Olympic (UMC) stuff. The UMC stuff was 4 thousandths wider at the widest spot on the cartridge than almost all the rest! So I guess that's why I never had problems with the winchester or S&B stuff, but the Greek UMC stuff didn't work right MOST of the time. Wolf must have had the laquer gooping up onto that burr, and getting stuck. So I'm happy with it. I'm just never gonna buy that Olympic stuff again. Crappy quality control & tolerances.
  12. roguecop55

    roguecop55 G&G Newbie

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    Mini-30 jams

    I've owned both the mini-14 and the mini-30 and have loved them. I still own the 30 and would never dream about parting with it. Problem: high capacity magazines are hard to come by and the synthetic mags stink. The feed lips on the synthetics have to be thicker in order to retain the ammo in the mag and this causes the mag to rub on the botoom of the bolt, slowing the cyclic rate and reducing the force of the bolt as it strips and feeds a round from the mag. Sometimes the mag will even prevent a round from being seated fully and since the round is locked in the bolt face the bolt will feel like it's stuck. This will NOT happen with metal mags. The upshot is: DON'T use the plastic mags. Stick with the steel mags as can be found at places like "Gunclips.com." This has been the only place I've found high capacity mini-30 mags in stock, at reasonable prices and fast delivery. Now, about that UMC ammo, if you can FEEL blemishes on the ammo cases, you have a problem. It could, either, be corrosion of the cases from long term storage and improper finishing and polishing which could cause the cases to bulge slightly or the cases were improperly prepared before reloading and not properly sized. Yes, I know. It's supposed to be factory loaded UMC brand ammo, but if it was it would not be sold loose in bulk boxes, but in original 20 round UMC boxes. I think someone sold you some reloaded ammo and made them seem like factory. I've had NO PROBLEMS shooting anything factory loaded from my mini-30 and that includes the Russian Wolf lacquer-coated stuff, the Chinese copper-washed stuff, Sliver Bear and US brass-cased. Again, the only problem was those plastic mags. The nose of the rounds getting smashed by the feed ramp is, also, a mag problem. The mag is not guiding the round into the feed ramp properly and is smashing the tips on the edge of the feed ramp. Try some 20 or 30 round METAL mags from Gunclips.com and let me know what you think. It'll be worth the $17 - $20 per mag rather than having to send the gun back to Ruger for service. AND remember when you clean the bore, polish the feed ramp and CHAMBER thoroughly, give it a light coating of silicon oil and then polish it DRY. You should have no more problems. OK?

  13. oldjarhead

    oldjarhead G&G Evangelist

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    I've used Wolf and Brown Bear, I prefer the BB.

    Accuracy can be improved by having a trigger job done. I had my trigger reduced to a 3 LB pull and it helped quite abit.
    Secondly, you may need to play around with the rear sight adjustments. I had sent my Mini-30 back to Ruger because the accuracy was basically non-existant; Ruger "fixed" the problem but wouldn't say what they had done and even sent me a target with three shots showing a tight group. I figure the range of the target was about 10 feet or less...not a good example. Ruger had the rear sights so screwed up I wouldn't have been able to hit a coffee can at six inches. I reset the rear sights to zero and worked it from there.
    Then I had the trigger job done.
    Accuracy if good enough to through bullets into a B27 target at 100 yards...I'd never go hunting with it though.

    Good HiCap aftermarket mags are impossible to find and Ruger has a mindset to 5 rounds. I purchased some 10 round and 20 rounders...the 10's were nearly identical to the Ruger 5 rounder in design and worked well. The 20 rounders were nearly worthless, I modified two and returned the other two. I reworked the composite follower (the mags were all metal except for the follower) which didn't do much good. I discovered that the extrusion that comes into contact with the bolt lock was too high and at the wrong angle. This caused the left round in a full magazine to contact the bolt lock and lock the bolt back. The first round was on the right ant fired as supposed to; the second round locked the bolt. After some frustration, I figured WTH and cut the extrusion off the follower, I figured I could deal with a non-locking bolt. After cutting the extrusion off the follower the magazines worked flawlessly...in addition to good function the follower extrusion was still high enough to lock the bolt after the last round. Compsite magazines have no place in my inventory...period. They are injection molded and will change dimensions as the mold gets older.

    BTW...I do like the Mini-30 and will hang onto it.
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2010
  14. GraniteStateGun

    GraniteStateGun G&G Newbie

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    Another option is to call Ruger....

    If you give them the serial number they will tell you your barrel bore diameter
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