Ruger 10/22 Reliability problems

Discussion in 'Ruger' started by alaskanhunter, Apr 20, 2011.

  1. alaskanhunter

    alaskanhunter G&G Newbie

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    Im having problems with my ruger, both failure to feed and stove pipes. It dosent seem like I can even get through a 10rd mag anymore without several jams. I have been using Win Wildcats in this rifle since I bought it 5 years ago, and have never had problems before. A friend recomended a Volquarsten extractor, would this fix the problem? The extractor looks fine on mine and it ejects shells several feet so I dont see how it would help. The Wildcats work fine in my Ruger MK3. I cant figure it out. Thanks for any help.
  2. MosinRuger

    MosinRuger G&G Enthusiast

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    the only time that i have had issues with my 10/22 was when i cleaned it one time and put wayyy too much oil on the bolt and action, i guess it was enough to slow down the cycling just enough so that it would extract/feed properly. after a week or two of that i cleaned it again and just put a light coat of oil on it and it has run fine ever since. This was only shortly after i got the gun and started shooting and was still sorta green.

    Its def not like my AR who loves oil!
  3. H-BAR

    H-BAR G&G Newbie

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    hello fellow sourdough!

    10/22's can be finicky when it comes to to much oil, or type of oil used. i had a 10/22 i inherited from my brother in law that had seen so much WD-40 spritzes to it's innards it was a single shot when i got it.

    2 other things to look at for quick fixes, is your magazine, and firing pin if your extractor doesn't look worn or chipped.

    mag lips can get worn and hold lead and powder fowling, witch will slow your bolt down a bit. loose lips might also cause the slide to drag on the next bullet coming into battery. if you run more then 1 mag, and still have have the problem you can probably ignore this step, unless there both the culprit, and that's doubtable

    if you clean the rifle from the muzzle all of the lead and fouling could get pushed into the bolt in it's powder solvent diluted form and find it's way into the firing pin. even with the bolt locked open sometimes bits and chunks can drip down and find there way in there (witch is why it's a good idea to leave a clean,dry bore patch over it when cleaning) . the firing pin is just a flat piece of metal that is free floating. the residue can harden and make the firing pin stick out a little bit after it's been worked back in long enough and the rounds won't seat properly. this can take years, but i've seen it in 2 rifles as old if not a bit newer then yours

    for this you need to take the bolt completely apart and clean it out. you'll need some punches to this, but it's no big chore

    other then those, i would suspect it to be a worn spring, or a bent bolt rod causing the problems, all are easy and cheap to fix. if you live near Wasilla i can direct ya to a damn good 10/22 nut for extra help
  4. Hobbit

    Hobbit G&G Newbie

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    clean it!
  5. nathangdad

    nathangdad G&G Newbie

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    Mmmmm,

    just a thought. A lot of guns come with a very liberal amount of "packing grease". This stuff can harden over time. .22's of all brands benefit from a real degreasing then a coat of light weight oil I have always done well with 3 in 1 oil.

    Also, if the gun has grease then residue from firing the gun can create "gunk" in places not easily seen.

    There are some good degreasers on the market but I was taught a long time ago removing the gun from the stock and pouring a lot of boiling water through it goes a long way with a .22 semi auto. Of course, you want a thorough drying before applying the light weight oil.

    Best wishes.
  6. alaskanhunter

    alaskanhunter G&G Newbie

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    I had taken the rifle completly apart a couple days ago and cleaned it and it still has problems. About an hour ago I dissasembled the magazine (what a pain!) and cleaned it yet it still jams. Maybe the guns just worn out?
  7. dhermesc

    dhermesc G&G Newbie

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    If its had several bricks put through it it probably time for a minor "overhaul" and have the springs replaced along with the extractor. Despite their popularity the 10-22s are still a fairly cheap rifle and they do have wear parts that should be serviced from time to time.
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2011
  8. DaTeacha

    DaTeacha Things are not what they seem. Forum Contributor

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    Mags sell for about 10 or 12 dollars at shows around here. If you suspect your trouble is with the magazine, why not get a new one and verify it?

    I would tend to go along with the clean it responses. You may have lead buildup or powder residue in places you can't see. When you say you have taken the gun apart, does that include the bolt? Is the bolt closing fully, or is there some hidden crud in the receiver that might be interfering with proper closure? Stuff like that can drive you nuts, but makes a big difference.

    If you get really mad at it and want to sell it cheap, let me know. I have 4 or 5 of the things, but there's a space in my safe for another. I just can't resist a good price on a good gun. :)
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2011
  9. oldjarhead

    oldjarhead G&G Enthusiast

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    DITTO

    You don't need to replace springs or other parts. Your extractor sounds good.
    Clean it well and use a dab of GunSlick lub where the bolt meets the receiver. Clean the bolt nooks and crannies as well.
    Todays .22lr ammo seems to be much dirtier shooting than that years ago.
    Oil will attract powder residue and turn into crud that will hinder the abilities of your rifle.
    Also check the recoil spring for crud between the coils...use a toothbrush to clean the spring.
    I have 4 of'em and the fault is usually operator failure to thoroughly clean it.
    Good luck

    One additional item...don't use the plastic lip magazines...spend the couple extra bucks for steel lips.
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2011
  10. dhermesc

    dhermesc G&G Newbie

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    See post 6.
  11. oldjarhead

    oldjarhead G&G Enthusiast

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    It's apparent, for FTF and stove-pipes, your bolt isn't going back far enough.
    Check the recoil spring guide to ensure it is seated into the guide hole. While you have the rifle torn down check the bolt and the receiver for any small burrs or nicks. Also check the hammer spring is seated correctly. If the hammer spring guide isn't seated properly the bolt won't be able to slide over the hammer thus not going all the way back. Check the bolt handle (top) for a burr or nick.
    If all that checks out...
    With an empty chamber, ride the bolt home slowly and check for vertical movement or if there appears to be any resistance somewhere in the bolt's forward movement; then do the same thing pulling the bolt rearward.
    If all this passes, try a different brand of ammo.
    Let us know!
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2011
  12. alaskanhunter

    alaskanhunter G&G Newbie

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    Ok thank you everybody I fixed the problem I bought a Volquarsten extractor and now it works perfect! The old extractor was just barely worn at the edge. Im glad this rifles running again, I was seriously thinking about selling it.
  13. oldjarhead

    oldjarhead G&G Enthusiast

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    Amazing!
    Glad you got'er done.
    I'm gonna file that in my brain housing group for future reference. Thanks for letting us all know.
  14. dogzebra

    dogzebra G&G Regular

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    Great. Here I was gonna offer you $50 bucks for the boat oar. Now I have to stick all of these states quarters back in the map. Washington's supposed to face out, right?
  15. texnmidwest

    texnmidwest Sir Loin of Beef Forum Contributor

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    That is too funny!!!!

    I own two 10/22s. One is a K10/22 with a 22" barrel made for a short time for Walmart. I didn't shoot it until recently. I brought it out, cleaned it as per usual and went to the range. Darned thing jammed every two to three shots! Changed ammo, same same! Finally, I took the thing apart to see what the heck was wrong. I found that the bolt and receiver were very rough and seemed to have never been polished at all. I took a piece of 0000 steel wool and polished up all the moving parts and sliding surfaces. Oiled it up real nice...looked it right down the receiver and said "Listen here Sumbich, you jam one more time and you are going to go to the used gun rack!" Now it digests what ever I put through it!
  16. TGF

    TGF G&G Newbie

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    I sold both my 10-22's about a year ago now. Best decision I ever made. Pick up a used marlin 60 pre-2010 to make sure you get one before Remington started making them.
  17. EtherialOne

    EtherialOne G&G Regular

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    Been having the same problem here on an old 10-22 that I bought used over 26 years ago but had not fired in a number of years until recently. I did do a good cleaning on it and when it started having problems I replaced the magazine with a new 10rd Ruger (never had much luck with the after market mags on mine) and now it will empty a clip fine sometimes and stovepipe or mis-feed every 2nd or 3rd shot on the next. I do tend to go a little heavy on the lubrication, especially on the rifles I don't use too often so I guess the next step is another thorough cleaning with minimal lubricating.. Will try to repost the next time I get to play with it. (probably won't be for a while as work's not been leaving much time for fun here lately).
  18. billy

    billy G&G Evangelist Forum Contributor

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    i take the stock off
    and hose the heck out of everything with brake cleaner.
    it melts some plastics so .....
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