SKS won't eject round

Discussion in 'The Powder Keg' started by tfd309, Sep 23, 2008.

  1. tfd309

    tfd309 G&G Newbie

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    ive had my sks close to 2 years now. the first 6 months it shot fine without missing a beat. however i took it out oneday about the 7th month and it just wouldnt eject the shell. it is a yugo i forgot the model i think its something like a 59/66 something like that. anyhow it would have to take a strong blow to the bolt handle to eject the shell. but on the grenade mode where it shoots like a bolt action, it ejects nice and smooth. i dont know if its the ammo im using or if its got something wrong with the bolt. please help me out. anyones advise would be greatly appreciated. i love shooting this gun, its so freakin' fun to shoot.
  2. gandog56

    gandog56 G&G Enthusiast

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    So you are saying if you bypass the gas operation, and using the same ammo, it hand ejects easily after firing. But if you switch the gas valve back on, you really have to whack it on the bolt handle to eject the shell?

    Wierd
  3. tfd309

    tfd309 G&G Newbie

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    yea

    thats exactly what its doing. do u think you know what the deal is?
  4. res45

    res45 G&G Regular

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    When was the last time you cleaned the chamber it's one of the most neglected areas on an SKS when shooting lacquer coated ammo,old lacquer buildup,cosmoline and powder residue over time can cause the chamber to tighten up and cases to stick in the chamber. Steel case ammo doesn't shrink back like brass cased ammo does. When your firing in single shot mode your not ramming the cartridge into the chamber as hard as the action of the rifle will itself and it's probably giving the case time to relax a bit and cool slightly in the chamber before you eject it by hand, that want happen when your in semi auto mode all that takes place in a split second.

    Also your gas valve has probably eroded enough to cause a gas leak problems in the YUGO,I'm assuming that you have cleaned the gas port inside the gas block and valve,along with the inside of the gas tube and piston and that the gas tube fits tight on the nipple of the gas valve. Just curious what type of ammo you are using.
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2008
  5. Zen900

    Zen900 G&G Newbie

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    Sounds like the gas return is blocked. Have you cleaned the little hole near the selector button is?
  6. gandog56

    gandog56 G&G Enthusiast

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    I use pipe cleaners soaked in bore cleaner to do all the holes.
  7. M14man

    M14man I don't take prisoners... Forum Contributor

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    Has me baffled as to why extraction effort should be any different because of the button position.
  8. marion57

    marion57 G&G Newbie

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    I am wondering the same thing???what are we missing here?
  9. res45

    res45 G&G Regular

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    Well what do we know,not allot honestly. He has had the rifle a YUGO for two year it worked fine for six month on the seventh month he started having ejection problems. Several things can cause this in the YUGO.

    1. worn gas valve
    2. rifle not cleaned or improperly cleaned to begin with
    3. dirty chamber or burr in chamber
    4. underpowered ammo ie Wolf is usually the main culprit in YUGO's with gas leaks

    So the question is why does the bolt stick when the selector button is on semi auto, he never stated if the rifle actually cycled a round beforehand and then when he fired the next round it stuck in the chamber and didn't eject. Cycling a round by hand into the chamber want drive it into the chamber with as much force as the mechanical action of the bolt under power. The selector button only does two things it either diverts the gas into the gas tube to cycle the bolt or it diverts it all down the barrel to launch grenades or fire the rifle in single shot mode. It has no affect on weather the shell casing stick in the chamber or not,if somebody can figure out how just switching a button for one position to another make a case stick in the chamber let me know,all of us that have YUGO's should be able to duplicate that by just flipping the switch.

    All SKS rifles aren't made the same,although there outward appearance are almost identical, YUGO SKS was never designed to shoot steel case coated ammo,it will shoot it fine you just have to take care of the chamber cleaning more often. All the Yugo military ammo for SKS rifles was made of brass,brass casing expand to fill the chamber to keep the hot gases trapped forward then relax slightly to aid in extraction,Yugo 7.62 x 39 ammo is also a tad bit hotter than most Russian ammo especially Wolf. I can put my old gas valve in and it want cycle any wolf ammo worth a lick but it will cycle anyone else's ammo without a hitch.

    Russian ammo is steel cased often lacquer coated or the newer polymer coating which isn't much better, it doesn't expand like brass to fill the chamber it allows some of the powder and hot gases to pass by the casing,mix that with hot sticky lacquer buildup on the chamber walls and the powder crud and the bolt driving the casing down tight into the camber over time its going to stick at some point. I have seen allot of nice AR's jam up after shooting a couple 100 rds of Wolf steel case .223 ammo it's even worse when you mix and match steel then switch to brass cased ammo. I think he just need to give the rifle and chamber a good cleaning and then polishing it with some bore paste,get a new valve and he is good to go.
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2008
  10. marion57

    marion57 G&G Newbie

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    Res45 I havea yugo and I cant duplicate his problem with the gas valve switch either so I am goiong to have to assume like you a good cleaning and some brass cased ammo may do it.. I dont shoot wolf in my yugo !!!I do shoot what I have left of it in my chicom but when its gone wont buy more .. However I clean the entire rifle after every shooting
  11. res45

    res45 G&G Regular

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    well I'm not knocking anyones choice of ammo,some people can't afford to reload,or buy the higher priced stuff,they buy what they can afford or whats available or there friends use. Allot of people shoot Wolf and have no problems with it,probably because the maintain there rifles on a regular basis,it's dirty stuff the Russian ammo some more than others and you can't keep shooting 100's of rounds and not have problems if you don't brake the rifle down and give it a good cleaning. As with anything mechanical proper maintenance,cleaning and lubrication makes things work properly and last longer.
  12. Cyrano

    Cyrano Resident Curmudgeon Forum Contributor

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    I take the point about shooting brass-cased ammo. But this still sounds like an improper cleaning problem to me. I've been firing steelcase through my SKS since I bought it and haven't had any trouble yet. I think the clue is that it cycles normally when he sets the selector switch to single shot and works the bolt by hand.

    If I had this problem with my Yugo, the first thing I would do is detail-strip it and examine all the parts, then clean the devil out of it. While I was cleaning, I'd look for seriously discolored spots on the piston that might indicate hot spots. This would tell me where the gas was scorching the piston, which in turn tells you if a gas port is fouled and thus requires more attention while cleaning.

    Pipe cleaners have their place in cleaning, but you may need something like a dental pick to clean the gas ports and the grooves in the gas piston. A box of toothpicks will do, but something made of metal is better. And don't spare the Hoppe's.

    I do something that might be considered either extreme or odd when I clean the gas piston. I polish it with Simichrome metal polish after I've cleaned it with Hoppe's before I replace it in the gas tube. It seems to help; I think because it doesn't give the particles in the gas anything to cling to. Haven't had any trouble cycling yet and I really think that the polishing helps. I also use a mop and swab out the gas tube itself, which I think is just good practice anyhow.

    I really think a detail-stripping and thorough cleaning will see him right.
  13. marion57

    marion57 G&G Newbie

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    +! on proper maintinence
  14. tfd309

    tfd309 G&G Newbie

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    thanks for the help.

    i appreciate all the suggestions, a few things i am guilty of are:
    >i have shot wolf through it and wolf was my last case of ammo.
    >i didnt really pay enough attention to notice if it was the wolf or the hotter loaded armor piercing ammo that was the culprit.
    >i have extensively cleaned the gas cylinder, but didnt give the chamber a whole lot of attention.

    ok one more question.
    my grandpa gave me and M44 mosin-nagant about a year ago. my grandfather passed it down to me and it looks like it did when it was brand new. is the bolt always tough to cycle after a couple of rounds, and is there any way to make it smoother? i have the original cleaning kit and dog-collar sling and bayonet it came with. he only used it to deer hunt. every year before season he'd make sure the sights were still on with three bullets, he'd either shoot a deer, or go the whole season without even shooting one more round. everytime im over he tells its story. i'd have to say its my most prized posession.
  15. marion57

    marion57 G&G Newbie

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    On the M44 I would remove the bolt and take it apart and clean and oil it ..I very and I mean very light coat of lithium grease on the bottom of the bolt will make it a lot smoother..
    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liBzwj-K35U]YouTube - Mosin Nagant Bolt[/ame]
  16. res45

    res45 G&G Regular

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    When you say the bolt is hard to cycle do you mean just working the bolt back and forth in the action after firing some rounds or after you fire a few rounds the bolt is hard to open and extract the fired case.
  17. Rave

    Rave G&G Enthusiast

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    Yugos do not have a chrome lined bore or chamberl
    .
    It sounds like a through cleaning of the chamber is in order,in fact if after cleaning and examination you may find a corroded/rough surface.
    If this is the case a bit of polishing may be in order.:scratchchin:
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2008
  18. Cyrano

    Cyrano Resident Curmudgeon Forum Contributor

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    tfd, if it were My M44, this is what I'd do.

    First, remove the bolt, take a small flashlight or a bore light and examine the receiver, particularly the grooves the locking lugs lock into. I'll bet you'll find they are dirty and in urgent need of cleaning.

    Second, clean the chamber carefully. I use a 28 gauge brush on mine. Scrub it out with Hoppe's No. 9. Repeat. Then repeat again. Many cases of Sticky Bolt are caused by crud buildup in the chamber. This is especially true if you shoot lacquered ammunition, because when the cartridge is fired the lacquer vaporizes and combines with powder gas and any unburned powder lurking about to form a sticky glaze that fouls the chamber. Clean this away and things smooth out quite a lot.

    Third, take steel polish and polish all exterior surfaces of the bolt itself. I know that it looks smooth, but there is smooth and then there is smooth. The smoother the bolt surface is, the smoother it will slide in the receiver.

    Finally, take the steel polish and polish the channels in the receiver the bolt runs in after you have cleaned the receiver. Again, the smoother they are, the smoother the bolt will work.

    When you have done all of this, take a dab of fluid grease, also called lithium grease, and lubricate the channels in the receiver. Then take gun oil - I recommend the teflon oil made for the AR series of rifles - and lubricate the bolt. Wipe off any excess oil, re-insert the bolt into the rifle and work it as rapidly as you can, 25 or 30 times. I think you will find the action is substantially smoother than it was, with no stickiness at all.

    Hope this advice is of help to you.
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