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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Seems it would be a simple rechambering and opening up of bolt face and extractor. For a rugged and reliable big game rifle, would it be feasible?

Considering all the advantages of a Mauser for dangerous game hunting, this seems like a very affordable yet quality setup.
 

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Have to get a longer mag box and open up the rails so they will feed from the mag. Once you do that there's no going back. But yeah it's feasible, been done many times. Probably not any calibers a 98 hasn't been modified for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
By open up the rails, you mean feed lips or their equivalent in the receiver?
 

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its do-able, but not worth the hassle. if you want to put this cartridge into a milsurp, i would recommend you do it to a 1917 enfield.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Awwww...

But the barrel is already 8mm. That's the whole idea. If I were doing a 1917, I'd do a 300 Wby Mag.
 

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BattleRifleG3 said:
By open up the rails, you mean feed lips or their equivalent in the receiver?
Reciever, that's why there's no going back.Once done it'll always have to be a magnum configuration
 

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If you're going to scope it it requires even more work. Drilling and tapping. I find the rear mounts work best when you grind the stripper clip hump off. Have to change the bolt handle. Yeah, I know they make bolt blocks to rebend them but I have yet to see a rebent bolt that looked worth a crap and you have to change the safety wing. If you're going to do all that, might as well get a decent trigger while you're at it. Then get rid of the military stock. Don't think you're going to want to touch off an 8mm mag with a solid steel recoil pad. Do all that and you might as well go ahead and narrow the trigger guard and trash the military stepped barrel and get a good quality Sporter barrel. Then you'll have a rifle that looks much like my F.N. 98.


 

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forged bolt handles look just fine, as long as your starting with a straight bolt handle. bolt handles like the k98k that are already somewhat bent, do not forge well. better off to replace the bolt handle, as previously mentioned.
 

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By the time you've done all that, you could've gotten a Remchester in the same caliber with a decent scope. These builds aren't cheap anymore.
Still, done right, they do make nice sporters. Please use a junker to build on though, not a nice milsurp.
You have to pay attention to which model of Mauser too. Some have longer actions, making them better for magnum conversion than the shorter actions.
 

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It's anything but cheap but when you're done you get a rifle that will shoot better than anything you can buy off a rack. Sub minute of angle at 100 yds or more. You can have a custom handle installed for the same price of a set of forging blocks and you've still got the aggravation of forging a bolt handle. Unless you're planning on rebending a lot of handles it's not worth it. JMHO but I've seen quite a few rebent bolts and I've never seen one you couldn't tell was rebent and unless you stretch them which really looks nasty they always come out short
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Ok, the idea here is in fact minimum expense for such a rifle. Here are a few details:
1. I can do stuff like a bolt face - provided I get a better lathe. Yup, I need to get lathe. I already have a vertical milling machine for much of the other stuff.
2. The whole idea of 8mm Rem Mag is to use an existing mounted 8mm Mauser barrel. Just rechamber.
3. Besides work on the bolt face and feeding surfaces, and rechambering, would any other work really have to be done, or is that just a preference?
4. I DO want to use the original military stock. Scope mount would be a scout type setup. For recoil, I'd just use an external buttpad. No need to drill and tap for an upper scope rail.
5. I'm familiar with which Mausers are collectible and which are full length, or at least know where to find out for sure... (good old gunboards)
 

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the length of this cartridge will probably force you to remove metal from the feedramp of the reciever, which is directly behind the locking lugs. i dont like the idea of weakening the reciever. i suggest staying with a rnd the same length as the 30-06 or shorter when using a standard length 98 action. the shorter actions should stick to 8x57 or shorter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I don't like the idea of weakening the area behind the locking lugs either. I take it then that 300 Wbyand 375 H&H conversions that I see done really shouldn't be? This is of course different from sporters made for those rounds to begin with.

Was thinking of the 325 WSM but that round seems a little too fat and the pressures would seem a little too high.
 

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the magnum length rnds really dont belong in a standard length action. yes it has been done, but that does not mean its the brightest idea. i wouldnt worry about a large ring mauser holding the pressure of a magnum cartridge. if you really want to do up a mauser, i recomend you picking up a copy of kuhnhausen's mauser bolt rifles. it contains alot of good info on the do's and dont's of modifying mauser rifles.
 

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I plan to do some projects myself. I have four CZ-24s, 1938-39, and they are beaters. Might restore one just for fun, but I want some custom rifles for myself. First I will magnaflux the receivers. Lord only knows what these veterans have been through. The period around Christmas is almost always slow, but have to go see my brand new grandson this year. I'll have to fit it in as I can. This is not to save money, you do understand? By the time you figure in barrel, reamer, machine time,stock, etc. you can most likely get a commercial piece a bit(lot?) cheaper. But then, it wouldn't be your very own special thing, either. Hey, this is a hobby. Reminds me of the fellow who rebuilt cars, took old piles of rust and restored them to new, even did the upholstery himself, drove them for 4-6 weeks and sold them. I asked him if he made a profit, and he just laughed. Said it about broke even, but it sure was fun.
 
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