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Blueing

Discussion in 'The Powder Keg' started by oneastrix, Sep 1, 2002.

  1. oneastrix

    oneastrix G&G Newbie

    I'm rebluing a the receiver on a Win 94. Been using Birchwood Casey products, but I don't like the way it came out. Any suggestions?
     
  2. lefty o

    lefty o G&G Evangelist

    9,224
    47
    mn
    well, for cold bluing i use brownells oxphoblue, its better than birchwood casey, but it still aint perfect. i have also heard good things about blue magic(or something like that), but have not tried it personally so i cant recommend it-have to find another cheap beater gun to sacrifice, then i'll try it.
     

  3. lefty o

    lefty o G&G Evangelist

    9,224
    47
    mn
    meant blue wonder!
     
  4. jarcp

    jarcp G&G Newbie

    Here is a recipe I was given I've never tried it and cannot vouch that it works, maybe someone else can either validate it or shoot it down


    "1) The mix ratio is 5 lb lye (sodium hydroxide) to 2 1/2 lb ammonium
    nitrate (fertilizer), to 1 gallon water. Forget the parts per thing
    re water to lye and my formula. I meant to put NH4NO3 but fingers said
    hydroxide - ala sodium hydroxide.

    2) Grocery store lye and garden store fertilizer (33% with stuff, but
    that?s what most all of it is) are good enough.. Make sure to not use
    tap water. Buy bottled water.

    3) Mix out doors as lots (and I mean LOTS) of ammonia gas evolves and
    will rot your lungs out if you sniff it. Were goggles as this stuff
    foams and bubbles like mad. Very violent exothermic reaction. Mix in a
    iron pail (not galvanized). Once mixed and operating the bath, there
    is no off gassing, put the vapors are corrosive so don't do it in your
    gun room or machine shop. Use plenty of ventilation.

    4) Bath operates at 285 to 295 degree F. If you don't have a
    thermometer, heat until a sample part will just sizzle cold water.
    Takes 15 to 45 min. depending on the steel and how dense a film you
    want.

    5) After you are done, take parts out, rinse in clean water, dry
    and oil. You are ready to go. If you don't like the depth of color
    after its dry,(but before you oil it) just put it back in the bath
    an cook it some more.

    6) Bath will do 10 to 15 jobs before you have to add about 1 lb
    lye to a 5 gal bath to make up for boil off. Add water as required
    to keep the concentrations correct, but this does not seem critical.

    7) You MUST add enough water at bath cool down, to more than make up
    for boil off or it will solidify and you can't re-melt easy. If you
    add too much, I will just boil off next time.

    8) Make sure the parts are clean. Any oil will ruin the bath and job.
    Boil parts in TSP, Oakite or such first.

    9) Store in glass or plastic jugs between use, if it crystalizes , it
    is shot.

    10) You do not have to plug the bore as the magnitite film is harder
    than the steel and, if anything, should improve it. Possibly a little
    chemical milling too.

    I have made test coupons and put them in an open beaker of water
    for a month with no corrosion. Even light sanding will not break
    down the surface.

    Sorry for the goofs. Getting in a hurry always makes a mess. "
     
  5. oneastrix

    oneastrix G&G Newbie

    Thanks guys. I'll take it into consideration. The model 94 only cost me $150 in pretty poor condition, that's why I'm not to worried about experimenting with it. I have a much nicer and older 94 to keep pretty.....