Bluing a Rifle

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by dman24, Oct 1, 2010.

  1. dman24

    dman24 G&G Newbie

    I have a Remington Fieldmaster 572 that has seen it's better days. There is some slight rust on the barrel and some of the finish is gone on the receiver. I want to refinish the metal, it was my grandpa's gun so I want it to last a good long time. I was thinking of cold bluing it or using duracoat. Which of these is easier, and toughest. It will primarily be a squirrel gun, not a safe queen. I want a finish that will last, but not break the bank to achieve a nice finished product. Any help is greatly appreciated.
     
  2. scott_n06

    scott_n06 G&G Newbie

    Ive cold blued several guns and its super simple however if it wont last as long as duracote. Depending on which duracote you may have to bake it so make sure you can do that first.
     

  3. huffmanite

    huffmanite G&G Evangelist

    I have not used duracoat, but have used numerous brands of cold blue. Best cold blue product I've used is Blue Wonder, followed by Brownell's oxpho blue. Both seem to be durable.
     
  4. dman24

    dman24 G&G Newbie

    Thanks yall. I don't think I will have any trouble baking it if that is the way I go. Is the duracoat you bake stronger than the regular duracoat? Any help is appreciated.
     
  5. Steve

    Steve Master Gunsmith Staff Member

    If it was your grand fathers gun why not spend the few extra bucks it takes and get a good prfessional hot blue job that will last hunderds of times longer than a cold blue and looks much better that duracoat. It should not cost over about $65-$75 to get it reblued.
    STeve
     
  6. dman24

    dman24 G&G Newbie

    I may have to do that Steve. My only problem is I don't know of any gunsmiths at all around my area. I do like that idea, may have to find a gunsmith somewhere nearby.
     
  7. lefty o

    lefty o G&G Evangelist

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    a good hot dip blue is a much better choice than your other options. it will look right when done and be reasonably durable.
     
  8. PAPA G

    PAPA G G&G Evangelist Forum Contributor

    maybe one of the 'smithy's here could receive it and do the bluing.
     
  9. Steve

    Steve Master Gunsmith Staff Member

    I can handle that chore.
    Steve
     
  10. I do matte bluing, parkerizing and ceramic coatings. As far as a local smith goes, sending firearms through the mail is legal to and from an ffl, such as a licensed gunsmith.
     
  11. oldjarhead

    oldjarhead G&G Evangelist

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    Cold bluing is not an easy task if you want to achieve a consistent finish; it's even more difficult if you've never done it before. I recommend a good hot blue process.
    Duracote and similar products are good finishes but have a finish that usually makes the gun look more toy like. These are easy to use but you need to make sure the gun surfaces are totally oil/dirt free.
    You, personally, can send your shotgun directly to a gunsmith and he can ship it directly back to you. Problem will be with the shipping company; UPS will not accept a firearm for shipping unless it is addressed to an FFL...company policy only...don't know why. FedEx may have a different policy. You may also ship it by USPS.
    To keep the value of Gpa's shotgun have it hot blued...heirlooms are best to keep in original-like condition.
     
  12. Rheem

    Rheem G&G Newbie

    may not be a good idea for you but i did have a old shotgun powder coated once the gun still looks good and fires well and the powder coat did not burn at all after about 240 rounds.
     
  13. Take a very serious look into the ceramic coating called cera-coat by NIC industries. It is all it claims to be. You can fill pitting beneath it before applying the coating as well. Another choice is to have it manganese parkerized using a blackening agent for the parkerizing solution. That also hides pitting and other defects very well without covering any printing or serial numbers.
    Take a look here: truedblued.com
     
  14. Steve

    Steve Master Gunsmith Staff Member

    All those other types finishes are good but they do not do any thing as far as restoration goes if it is to be returned to as close to original as possible it needs to be very carefully polished to the proper finish before it is hot blued.
    Steve