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CETME double feed and jamming

Discussion in 'The Powder Keg' started by jamsalot, Apr 2, 2002.

  1. jamsalot

    jamsalot G&G Newbie

    :confused: I have a CETME with the US made CAI receiver. It fires just fine for the most part but it sees to jam alot. I clean it thoroughly each time i fire it and it works fine for the first few rounds then after about 20 rds it jams almost every time. The extracted brass gets wedged behind the bolt and even when it ejects clear it is chewed all to hell. The spent brass is unusually fouled and dirty. I have only used british made NATO surplus fmj. I have used two types of G3 mags. Would it make a difference if i used origional CETME mags? Anyone else have this trouble? I am wondering if i should sand the chamber a bit. Would a new bolt carrier be the answer? Also...would a G3 parts kit (bolt, hand grips, adjustable stock) fit my weapon? I am quite frustrated. I really love the way the gun shoots aside from the infuriating jamming troubles. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.:rolleyes:
  2. BattleRifleG3

    BattleRifleG3 G&G Evangelist

    G3 parts are mostly NOT interchangeable with CETME. That's why I got a G3. Not even all the CETMEs are on the same specs. They work the same way though. I keep my G3 heavily lubricated. Maybe yours needs to be worked in.
    The stock pieces of a G3 can be MODIFIED to fit CETME, but it takes a bit of work, and that all depends on your skill. Someone somewhere had a website describing how to do it.
    In my experience, HK mags are much better than CETME in any circumstance.

  3. MWDG3

    MWDG3 G&G Newbie

    Sounds like your ejector is riding too low in the bolt groove. Occasionally the spent casing skims right over the ejector and stays in the bolthead for the return trip. The bolt trys to load another round, right?

    I found my stainless receiver's triggerpack-well(for lack of a better word) is out of spec. The receiver isn't finished milled, so the rear area where the stock pin holes are located is too big. This makes the rear of the trigger frame droop(reason buttstock needs to be wrestled off too), placing the back of the ejector low. The lower position means the carrier has to travel farther aft before engaging the rear of the ejector to rock the front up into the groove on the bolthead. It also means the ejector won't get as much bite on the case.

    If your trigger pack shelf was welded too high, the front of the pack will sit low as well. This will only compound your problem. You want the ejector to fill as much of it's groove as possible. This will give you maximum bite on the spent casing.