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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wasn't sure where to put this, so here we go. I go back to work tomorrow and am on for 2 weeks which I will have limited time to check in. So, I figured I would stir the pot and leave...馃ぃ馃槀馃ぃ馃槀 I know this is an age old discussion but I have thoughts and questions.

First of all, I am not a fan of the 3 in 1 products. If I am going to clean, I want a cleaner. I generally use Hoppes and or WD-40 to clean with. I like these and they work well for me. For Me.

When it comes to lubrication, I like 3 in 1 Machine Oil (I know, I know), or a good quality lightweight engine oil. There are a few actual Gun Oils on the market I would like to try, but haven' yet. Shooters Lube is one I can think of right off hand.

Last, but not least there is protectant. I have in the past and currently used RemOil. It seems to work well. I have used the 3 in 1 Machine Oil for this as well, but like the RemOil better for this application.

What is everyone's "Go To"? Favorites? Reasons why? Reasons why not? Thoughts? Opinions?
 

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MSR Shooter and Builder, Precision Bolt Action Rim & Center Fire enthusiast. Glock & 1911 pistoleer
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Actual copper and lead build up: Hoppe's #9.
General cleaning, light lubricant and protectant: Ballistol.
Heavy lubricant: Teflon Grease or Marine Grade Wheel Bearing Grease
 

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clean?
pffft, i barely oil.

i will use grease/STOS on hinge joints and in choke tubes though.
3 in 1 is fine, ATF is what i use in my AR when i remember to put something in there.
G-96 is what i wipe on bolt lugs and race ways,, like it on my presses too.
i got lots of that military CLR stuff here somewhere, a box full, a big box full.
don't use it too often, gave at least half of it away over the years.

when i hunted in the great salt lake i would spray down a blued gun with birchwood casey's sheath.
it works good in the snow, and helped keep the salt at bay, but wasn't really waterproof after a few hours of solid rain.
 

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I use Hoppes #9 to clean primarily and Kroil mixed with Shooters choice when I want to remove copper fouling (and plastic wad fouling in shotguns). As for oil, I use Hoppes gun oil most of the time except for winter. I really like Hoppes oil, it's cheap, easy to find and has always worked very well in Alaska - - but, in the winter during very cold weather, I use CLP because it stands up to extreme cold well and does a good job stopping rust, which is important when my guns are subjected to condensation from hot/cold cycles . I also like to use CLP when I am around salt water, again, that rust prevention thing . I have a few other products on hand if needed, but I tend to stick with the tried and true products that have never let me down, why change a good thing.
 

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Thought this was gonna be about Bedroom Talk.
I was going say something along those lines after reading the title and kept my mouth shut...
... glad you are the dog who barked first lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the replies y鈥檃ll. Well except for a couple of ya. I won鈥檛 mention any names but I bet animalspooker and mindy have an idea who I am talking about鈥︷煠佛煆尖嶁檪锔

I have also seen some pretty good videos on YouTube that were informative. A few of them were interesting because they did comparison tests on several different products. It鈥檚 been several years since I鈥檝e seen them therefore I probably couldn鈥檛 find them again if my life depended on it.
 

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if it's gonna be stupid cold i will actually strip a gun down and clean all the oils and such out.
for a bolt gun i will just use a little bit of .... white gas [yeah that coleman stuff] on the moving parts.

and replace the grease with a very light oil [G-96] on the pieces that rub together.
G-96 is the best all around oil out there according to a few military tests conducted in extreme heat and cold.
 

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For normal temperatures, for cleaning, lubing, and protecting firearms I use Gunzilla. It is made of organic plant oils and it works better than anything else I have ever used. I was turned on to it by a friend whose last assignment in the Marine Corps was to Iraq at the start of the occupation there. He reported aboard, and his platoon sergeant took his orders, shook his hand, then handed him a pint bottle of Gunzilla. When my friend asked the gunny what it was, stripped of the profanity and pejoratives the gunny said, "It's the only thing I've found in 24 years in the Corps that gets an M-16 or an M-14 to perform the way Colt claims it should - and really doesn't."

The usual practice in the Sandbox was for a patrol to clean their rifles before they went out, and at every rest break half the platoon would clean their rifles again to be sure they would work if necessary (no guarantee with a Poodle Shooter). My friend's outfit didn't do that. They would detail-strip and clean their rifles with Gunzilla before they went on patrol, and again when they got back. That's all. The guys with the machine guns did the same.

In a year of duty in Iraq, that platoon did not have a single weapons malfunction. That gunny used his own money to buy Gunzilla by the case, because it bloody well WORKS.

Hey - if it's good enough for Marine combat infantrymen whose lives depend on their weapons, it's good enough for me. I have never had an instance where a firearm cleaned, lubed, and protected by Gunzilla failed to shoot.

Gunzilla will pull gunk, copper, and grime out of a firearm you'd swear was clean. You want proof of this? Buy yourself one of the little 2 ounce tryout bottles you can get from Top Duck, the manufacturer. Clean your firearm as you do normally. When you are satisfied it is clean, take a patch, soak it with Gunzilla, and run it through the bore. The amount of gunk, guck, powder residue, rust, and plain old dirt that patch will pick up will astonish you. I suspect your reaction will be to immediately order a pint of Gunzilla and then clean the daylights out of all your guns as soon as you get it. I use it for everything that most people use 3 In 1 Oil for, and it works better. Much better.

Top Duck also makes Copperzilla, specifically for removing copper fouling; and Superzilla, a rust penetrator and remover that makes WD-40 or Kroil Oil look pathetic. If you watch late night TV, you may have seen ads for Superzilla. I can testify that Superzilla does amazing things. I once had to deal with a lug nut on my wife's car that I could not get to budge with the lug wrench; it was rusted in place. I squirted Superzilla on it and waited 15 minutes, then tried again. The lug nut came right off. It also will dissolve paint. I used it to salvage some ceramic tiles she had put on a wooden storage box which she had not taken care of and which had fallen apart because she did not take care of it. It can be used to get stickers and bumper stickers off cars. Lots of other uses. It's great stuff.

And the beauty of Top Duck products is that they are made from organic plant oils, so they are a renewable resource. It's interesting when you have the opportunity to lay that on the liberals!
 

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got my first can of G96 from otasco in eufaula back in 1975, been using it ever since...........
That must have come in a 55 gallon drum, or you haven't been shooting much in 47 years LOL! :p
 
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