Corrosive Ammo Cleaning solution

Discussion in 'The Powder Keg' started by BattleRifleG3, Oct 6, 2002.

  1. BattleRifleG3

    BattleRifleG3 G&G Evangelist

    GunGeek just got a load of moderately corrosive Yugo ammo for his Romy SKS, and needs to know how to mix ammonia into the right strength of solution.

    What's the best way do do it? And what parts should one clean this way?
  2. oneastrix

    oneastrix G&G Newbie

    Grease cutting soap and water. Don't know from experience though. Just what I've heard. Run the water right down the barrel. Barrel removed of course..

  3. Brake fluid is a great initial cleaner, cheap and can use libraly( don't want to say that too loug here). Get some "RB-17", made right here in the small city of Missouri City Texas. Search RBtreasures or somin like dat. Has ammonia in it. Then use "Corrosion X" in and out of the barrel and all over. I had rifles stored for years (4) and not rust in barrel. Its cost more than the bargin 9 cost, used both and myself i'll never use 9 again. No I dont make the stuff, it just works.
    I bought some other stuffrecently, X-1R made by "Sun Coast Chemicals of Daytona Inc". seems to do a good job. "Gun Cleaner & Lubricant" about $6.00 for 4 oz.
  4. oneastrix

    oneastrix G&G Newbie

    No kidding FullMetal? I've always heard of the Break Free/Carborator cleaner comparison, but your recipe is new to me...
  5. R,The articles I've read suggest a solution of 1 part ammonia to 3 parts of water, or weaker.

    I keep a small bottle in my range tool/cleaning kit so, when I do rarely shoot corrosive stuff I run a couple of patches of ammonia solution down the barrel right after shooting making sure that I run a dry one through for the final swab.

    I'll squirt a little on an old rag and work around the chamber, ramp, bolt slides, bolt etc.

    From what I've read they highly recommend not allowing the ammonia soultion to dry or to remain on the metal parts for very other some Hoppes or soapy water through the barrel and on the parts at he end to get the residue off.

    Then I do a more thorough cleaning when I get home.

    I've also read that the corrosive salts have less effect on chromed parts versus non-chromed areas.

    I'm not sure if I believe EVERYTHING I read about it because I'm sure that mothers would've sworn 100 years ago they knew more than other mothers and doctors.

    What we need is a chemist (or someone very familiar with chemistry) to guide us in the right direction.
  6. One more thing I have always wondered:

    If corrosive salts is such a large issue how does one explain the relatively good-great shape some of the older Mausers and other bolt actions are in since we all know they shoot the chit out of corrosive ammo way back when and I'm positive the average soldier wasn't aware of corrosive salt decay and if he did, I doubt very much if he even cared about it.

    Some suggest they whizzed down the rifle barrel but I don't see that happening that much back then either.

    This wondering came about the first time I saw the metal oil can that came with my Mosin. It has two spouts and has a divider inside the can. One side was for oil but was the other side for some kind of cleaning solution?

    Any thoughts?

    Don't get me wrong as I do see the potential of corrosive salts affects on a gun but I am still curious about what history might also suggest.
  7. I've been using Butch's Bore Shine. It really works good and the ingredients list ammonia salts, so I'm pretty sure it nuetralizes the corrosive ammo. I have cleaned one gun with Hoppes and one with Butch's. When they both looked clean, I ran a patch with Butch's down the bore of the one cleaned with Hoppes. Man there was a lot of stuff left behind with the Hoppes!! At about $7.50 for 4 ounces, it isnt cheap but sure works better than anything I've tried.
    Dale, I've got several of the oil bottles and you are right. One side is for oil and one is for a cleaning solution. I think they would make great salt and pepper shakers since I dont think I'll ever use them for their intended purpose. Salt and pepper with one shake. Sure would make an interesting conversation piece on the dinner table!
  8. Never thought about the shape the mausers where in. The metal DOES seem to be in better shape than many other guns.
    Maybe the soldiers that had them were always retreating and never had much of a chance to fire them?
  9. MMMMM...cosmolene flavored salt and pepper. Might be a new taste trend, he he he he.
  10. Gyrene

    Gyrene Guest

    BattleRifleG3 - If GunGeek has not cleaned it by now, most of the damage is already done!

    The best way to be sure the corrosive salts are removed, is with "HOT SOAPY WATER"! Then after a good scrubbing, of all the metal parts, pour boiling water over it, and as soon as you can handle the metal parts, perform a regular cleaning using a preservative oil for the last step. All that many of our ancestors had, was soap and hot water, and when they used it, it kept the rifles and pistols in good condition. If they hadn't done this, then we wouldn't have so many premium antiques or C&R's around.

    Now, I know that there are some who use commercially available cleaners that will clean out the corrosive salts (THEY WORK), but if you do not have access to them right away, then use the hot soapy water method. Windex can be used as a quick way to stop the corrosion, before leaving the range. The key to preserving any weapon after using corrosive ammo, is to clean it as soon as possible with a solution that will neutralize the corrosive salts, then clean it in the way you clean it if you didn't use corrosive ammo. Most of the damage occurs within about 3 days, but clean it anyhow if you didn't do it soon enough, as the corrosion will only continue to do damage.
  11. Big Dog

    Big Dog Retired IT Dinosaur Wrangler Forum Contributor

    Windex Ammonia-D, followed by your powder solvent and lubricant of choice. I've used Bore Scrubber by Birchwood Casey (strongly ammonia!) but the Windex is as good and much cheaper (free if you use the wifes' bottle!). ;)

    I had been using LSA (my gallon can should last a LONG time), but have just started using Break-Free. I like it. :cool:

    Don't oil or grease the gas tube/piston of your SKS - informed sources say it should be kept dry. :nod:
  12. Stewart

    Stewart Guest

    Simple, cheap, effective, and can be actually done after firing which is the important time frame...Amonia, water, and a detergent to make it soapy if you would like. Moisten a patch and run it down the barrel, also wipe down the bolt face. Run another dry patch down the bore and dry the bolt face, clean like normal later. Dennis Kroh of Empire Arms has this same method listed for corresive cleaning, see link under FAQ.
  13. VVG

    VVG Guest

    Because the Germans and Swiss got rid of the non-corrosive primers starting as early as 1911 (Swiss).

    Primers caused most of the corrosion. Springfield Armory knew about this and had tested them, but the primer volume required was greater and would not fit in our ammunition. Eventually, we discovered compounds that were compact, non-corrosive, and reliable at extremely low and extremely high temps and humidity (which the Germans and Swiss didn't worry about). The Berdan primer (which the Europeans use) was an American invention, while the Boxer (that we use) was invented overseas - go figure.

    This is covered at length in "Hatcher's Notebook," by General Hatcher, who was an Ordinance Officer from WWI through WWII.
  14. jerry

    jerry Since 03-15- 2002 Forum Contributor

    very educational VVG.
    Welcome aboard by the way. :D
  15. vvg,

    That is some great info.....fer sure....yepper.

    Much 'preciated!
  16. yodar

    yodar Guest

    Dale WRIT:
    One more thing I have always wondered:

    If corrosive salts is such a large issue how does one explain the relatively good-great shape some of the older Mausers and other bolt actions are in since we all know they shoot the chit out of corrosive ammo way back when and I'm positive the average soldier wasn't aware of corrosive salt decay and if he did, I doubt very much if he even cared about it.

    THE REASON WHY MANY MAUSER BARRELS ARE SO NICE: The German ISSUE version of CLP was a hundfed year old product from coal, called BALLISTOL. It is a rather NASTY-smelling substance that has been part of the german Infantrymans' Kit for a LONG Time. Strait, it functions like CLP, and has successfully been used to rejuvenate stock furniture and slings, and seems to have been useful for dozens of infantryman's needs and ailments including treating surface wounds, and for internal problems. One historical reference alleges: Corporal Shickelgruber used it later in life to treat his "meteorism" (flatulence).

    Ballistol, mixed with water and used, as GYRENE advises, is an excellent solvent for SALTS.

    Salts arent NEUTRALIZED, they are simply DISSOLVED and accordingly many black powder shooters swear by Ballistol & water mixed as a SOLVENT-cleaner. They call it "MOOSE MILK"

    The Brits have a neat way of dealing with their cleaning process, in fact their accessory is seen in the large multi-paged SGN antique Militaria ads...They pour the hot boiling soapy water down their bores with a flexible-necked variation of what we call today an automatic transmission fluid funnel.
  17. toolman

    toolman Resident Sasquatch Forum Contributor

    i had heard that one of the reasons for the corrosive primers is that they are more likely to fire in extreme cold.sounds sort of like bs to me and i'm not going to siberia to test the theory but it was in one of the large gun mags.i also used to have a recipe for a bore cleaner for corrosive residue that used automatic trans. fluid as one of the ingredients.never tried it as i always spray lube my guns before leaving the range then clean with the rb-17 that FMJ was talking about earlier-this stuff is scary good! if not shooting corr. ammo i use the old kroil and j-b combo.will see if i can find that recipe if anyone is interested.
  18. k8cca

    k8cca G&G Newbie

    So all mil surp ammo is corrosive? I got some 7.62x54R Yugo from Aim a while back as well as some 7.63x39 Yugo and they said it was non corrosive. I have not cleaned the bores with anything other than Hoppes. Now maybe I better look at the bores? That was a few weeks ago that I was shooting. Geez, I hope I did not wreck them. Any thoughts?
  19. Corrosive ammo is designed for a very long shelf life.