Do you weight group your cases?

Discussion in 'General Reloading' started by DaTeacha, Aug 17, 2010.

  1. DaTeacha

    DaTeacha Things are not what they seem. Forum Contributor

    While cleaning and inspecting some .223 cases, I started weighing them, mostly for fun. That lead to sorting them according to weight, which is something I've never done, but I figured I would eliminate one more variable in my loading if I grouped the cases by weight.

    For those of you who do so, what size are your weight groups? Right now, I have a bunch of .223 cases grouped every .2 grains (same weight +/- .1 grain) and have found a pretty nice "normal" population curve centered around 93.0 grains per case. There are a few way out on the edges at 93.8 and 92.0, but the majority are in boxes from 92.8 to 93.2.

    So, my weight groups are divided by roughly .25 % of the mass of the case. If you group them, what is the tolerance within each group? Does it seem to matter in your results?
  2. Dutch

    Dutch G&G Evangelist

    I weigh my long range and hunting brass. Having a fair amount of match brass, I try to get my boxes so they are exactly the same weight. I would say within half a grain I am pretty satisfied, but can normally make a set much closer then that. This is only something I do with 25.06, 30.06, and .308. I don't have rifles in anything else accurate enough to bother with.

    For normal, every day shooting, I don't bother with it. I don't know that it makes enough of a difference.

    Edit: thinking about it, I haven't weighed any in a long time, I am going to say that I was able to match my cases by .1 or .2 grains. Again, I am not totally convinced it makes a difference except for the rare occasions I feel like pushing myself and the rifle to remind me exactly what they are capable of.
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2010

  3. samuel

    samuel G&G Newbie

    Usually it isn't necessary if using the same headstamp,but I do it anyway from habit,I guess. ,,,sam.
  4. gandog56

    gandog56 G&G Evangelist

    Nope, I do not. Firing my .223 out of a Saiga AK type semi-auto, I am not expecting tackdriving accuracy, so why try to achieve it?
  5. Don't find it to be that important, just get brass of the same make and lot numbers, trim to proper length if they need it, and don't worry about it
  6. samuel

    samuel G&G Newbie

    There is a he*l of a difference!I am guessing at weight but as I recall,some brass in .223 weighs about 95grn,s and some around 110.You can gain or lose several thousand lbs pressure meaning not only do you have poor accuracy,but,especially in the AL,s it is very hard on guns/actions.What may be a decent load in one case may be over max in another.And this can happen with same mfg,s.At least try to get them close/similar. sam.
  7. SwedeSteve

    SwedeSteve Freedom Zealot Forum Contributor

    I don't do much centerfire plinking anymore. So most all of my rifle brass gets sorted after tumbling and trimming to exact the last drop of accuracy from my rifles.
  8. gandog56

    gandog56 G&G Evangelist

    Heck, I mix .223 AND 5.56 brass together.
  9. lefty o

    lefty o G&G Evangelist

    for my long distance varmint rifle, i weigh in .3grn groupings. does it make a difference, i honestly dont know as i have never tried shooting groups with that rifle with unsorted/mixed brass. for my other rifles, i dont bother, and i still expect excellent accuracy out of the others.
  10. FortyXDM

    FortyXDM G&G Evangelist Staff Member

    I agree with Sam and Lefty. I only weigh Lapua brass for my 308 that will be (hopefully) loaded for top accuracy using weighed 168 gr sierra match.

    I separated at .2 grains per batch. Interesting to kinda see a bell curve from the results of the separated cases. (100 total) Lapua doesn't vary as much as some, making the job a little easier. Does it help ? How would I know....hahahahahhaa. But it doesn't hurt, and I do have a 5 shot .24 group, and one .18 three shot. (Please don't ask how many groups I have shot)

  11. That is something I haven't tried yet.I manage to get all the necessary accuracy out of mixed lots of brass that I need. Mostleall Remington or Winchester for my three varmint rifles.
  12. noylj

    noylj G&G Enthusiast

    SW USA
    Sorting brass

    I have never found any improvement by sorting cases by weight or headstamp.
    Of course, none of my rifles shoot sub-0.5" groups at 100 yards, so I wouldn't see the difference. 0.75-1.00" inch for my .30-06 and 1.5-2.0" for my .30-30 is good enough for me.
    However, you should sort your cases by headstamp and weight and load some that way and with mixed weight and headstamp. Then, without knowing when you shoot that group, see if you can see an improvement in group size. If you know what rounds you are firing, you will shoot just that extra carefully when you have the "all identical" brass and you will have less confidence with the mixed rounds, so you have to NOT KNOW which you are shooting.
    Of course, that means NOT looking at the headstamps while you are loading and firing.
    Then, you can tell us what you found out...
  13. billy

    billy G&G Evangelist Forum Contributor

    when shooting for groups.
    consistency is key.
    i use a quality machine rest.
    and take meticulous notes of each and every shot.
    i tried checking a box of lapua brass for weight discrepancies.
    they were all the same.
    i HAVE to know what brass what bullet what everything.

    if you cant be consistant shooting.
    dont bother going for groups.
  14. Bart B.

    Bart B. G&G Addict

    Measured case weight across a batch of .308 Win. ammo made with new cases checking 100 rounds picked randomly. Spread was a bit over 3 grains; that's about 2%. Accuracy across a couple dozen rifles was 1/2 to 2/3 MOA at 600 yards, 3/4 to 1 MOA at 1000.Bullet runout was between zero and 3.5 thousandths.Charge weight spread about 45.3 grains average was a bit over 3/10ths of a grain.At 100 yards, that ammo would shoot under 1/3 MOA.Case and charge weight can vary quite a bit and accuracy won't suffer.