Enlighten Me On A Straight Pull Steyr M95

Discussion in 'The Powder Keg' started by gandog56, May 13, 2008.

  1. gandog56

    gandog56 G&G Evangelist

    Just what is it that stops the bolt from embedding itself in my forehead when I fire off a round? When I can open it just by pulling straight back it's a little scary for a novice.:196:
     
  2. It has a cam that turns the front of the bolt and engages the lugs. It kinda works like the bolt in the BAR and the BLR. I dont know if that helps or not.
     

  3. Big Dog

    Big Dog Retired IT Dinosaur Wrangler Forum Contributor

    Same reason our K31 Swiss Misses don't put their bolts in our eye.... :)
     
  4. gandog56

    gandog56 G&G Evangelist

    Well, having the mechanical aptitude of an orange, it just seems strange to me that me pulling back on the handle will open the bolt, but the recoil from a firing round won't. As long as it shoots good, I guess. I don't remember any stories of lots of Austrian troops having surgery to have bolts removed from their eye sockets during WW1.
     
  5. SwedeSteve

    SwedeSteve Freedom Zealot Forum Contributor

  6. Rex in OTZ

    Rex in OTZ G&G Evangelist

    Straight pull rifles

    I have read that the Canadian Ross straight pull rifles could be mis-assembled and have been known to open when they shouldent
    The U.S's try at straight pull's was with the Navy "Lee" in a 6.5 caliber used during the Boxer incident China mentioned in the SGN not so long ago
    I guess the field reports of lack of primary extraction with the Navy's Lee and later on the Ross lead to there being phased out.
    I personally dont know much about the Styer or Smidt other than the bolts lock in a rotary fashion and have had good reports as far as safety
    ie not blowing a bolt shaped hole in one's head
    Im for certin that the main reason embattled country's had dropped straight pull rifles has to do primary extraction in a battlefield environment.

    There are some straight pull commercial rifles out there "BLASIER'? being the first that comes to mind, the Brno straight pull .22
    I think Browning made a straight pull .22 years ago called the T bolt.
     
  7. I guess the best way can explia it is that when you pull the bolt handle back, the first thing that happens is that handle cams the bold head and unlocks the lugs from the reciever. That's why you pull the handle back a little ways before the actual bolt begins to move rearward. Kinda like alot of gas operated autmatics such as the SKS, AK, AR's, the gas pressuer is kinda doing what your hand is doing for the first inch or so that you pull the handle back. Just on an automatic there is more of a noticable difference between the bolt head and the bolt carrier, butthe bolt carrier is responsable for caming the locking lugs free of the reciever, instead of the bolt hamdle that you pull on. Hope this helps, probaly a little cnfussng, but if you just keep operating the action slowly while keeping this al in mind, I think you'll figure it out. As for the reason that the recoil force of the round you just fired, not being able to open the bolt, that's cause it's rearward force is dumped into the reciever via the bolt head and it's locking lugs, not onto the bolt handle that cams the head free.
     
  8. gandog56

    gandog56 G&G Evangelist

    Remember, I said an ORANGE!:09:

    Good explanation, though.
     
  9. billy

    billy G&G Evangelist Forum Contributor

    ok let me try.
    it does a lil twisty kinda thing .
    so it cant kill ya.
    is that better?

    Steyr Mannlicher M95 bolt has a separate head with two frontal locking lugs; bolt head was inserted into the bolt body from the front. Bolt body had internal spiral-shaped ribs, with matching spiral-shaped cuts in the tail of the bolt head. These ribs and cuts forced the bolt head to rotate on the pull of the bolt body, locking and unlocking the action. Box magazine contained five rounds in en bloc clips; as the magazine emptied, the clips were ejected from the opening at the bottom of the magazine. Non-empty clips could be removed from the top with the bolt open, by depressing the clip catch inside the triggerguard. One specific feature of this system was that the clip has specific "top" and "bottom" sides, and could not be loaded into the rifle upside down. The safety was located at the rear left side of the bolt. Large ear-shaped cocking handle at the rear of the bolt served as a manual cocking handle, to re-cock the action without operating the bolt
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    Last edited: May 13, 2008
  10. I actually could never figure out how to put the bolt back in once I got it out. I took it to a buddy's gun shop and he tinkered with it and figured it out and showed me. Hopefully, I can remember it the next time I shoot it. Beautiful rifle, though.
     
  11. gandog56

    gandog56 G&G Evangelist

    Yeah, when I took it out to clean the cosmoline out I couldn't fit it back in either. Found out that the bolt head had to be pulled out or it's a no go.
     
  12. And the side lever to help release or lock the bolt head thing was a bit odd to me. Clever, those Austrians.
     
  13. Big Dog

    Big Dog Retired IT Dinosaur Wrangler Forum Contributor

    Getting the bolt back in is easy - IF you leave it cocked. If it decocks, you're in trouble! It's a real PITA getting the bolt recocked out of the gun.
     
  14. gandog56

    gandog56 G&G Evangelist

    That's no lie. Took me all my strength to cock that sucker again. I hear there's a trick using a dime, but I can't figure out how.
     
  15. kinda funny, when i first got mine, the only problem i had was with getting the bolt out. haha. clever trigger reverse. after that i dismantled it to each of the little pieces and reassembled it easy.
     
  16. Took me a while to figure out how to get the bolt back in mine too when I first got em. Try taking out a bolt in a 30-40 Krag once. That was the hardest to figure out by myself. Heck now you can just look on the internet and it tells you everything.
     
  17. The easiest way to put the bolt back in is to put a slightly ground dime in between the bolt head and the bolt body.