French MAS 1936

Discussion in 'General Military' started by jlwilkens, Aug 23, 2010.

  1. jlwilkens

    jlwilkens G&G Newbie

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    I recently spotted a French MAS 1936 at a pawn shop. The stock, although in good shape, looks like it has been replaced or modified because the parts don't exactly match up well. Or maybe this is normal for some MAS rifles? Bore looks good (7.5) and has bayonet. They are asking $150? What else should I be looking for besides the obvious when purchasing this gun? Besides the obvious serial number engraved in the metal where are the other serial numbers? Should there be one on the stock anywhere? I noticed after looking at many pictures online that some guns had serial numbers on the stock and some don't. Any suggestions, tips, advice would be much appreciated. Thank you.
     
  2. FS00008

    FS00008 Сергей Иванович Мосин. Forum Contributor

    Look at the Bore. It's probably not matching if it was imported by Century. They're good shooters. I reload for 7.5 and it's a very fun cartridge.
     

  3. jlwilkens

    jlwilkens G&G Newbie

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    What am I looking for on the bore? Serial numbers? Thanks.
     
  4. big boomer

    big boomer G&G Enthusiast

  5. FS00008

    FS00008 Сергей Иванович Мосин. Forum Contributor

    Dark bore, pitting in the barrel.

    I'd pick it up either way tbh. Good price and if the barrel isn't bad it's a good shooter. If you want collector grade you should probably look on Gunbroker. Be careful also, look for a billboard stamp on it, Century imported a bunch of them and converted them to .308 so it may be in .308. If it is, they would have put a billboard on it saying ".308 Win" or "7.62x51 NATO" depending on the date of import.
     
  6. jason1965

    jason1965 mil-surp collector Forum Contributor

    There are three things to look for:
    Condition,condition,and did I mention condition?
    $150 is not a bad price at all,but I would definitely have a competent gunsmith look at it.

    Here's a picture of mine that I paid around $300 for:

    If you click on the picture several times,you'll be able to see it a lot better.
    The sling is original,and the recoil pad is from a 49/56.
    It shoots pretty straight,however I need to get a different rear sight leaf to get it dead center on the target.They can be a little hard to find.
    If you need more pictures of it,I'll take some tomorrow and post them.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Aug 23, 2010
  7. jlwilkens

    jlwilkens G&G Newbie

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    OK, thank you for the advice. Your gun looks to be in very good shape. The one I am looking at the stock does not match very well, but the rest of the gun looks good. I will have to take a closer look for import markings to see if it truly is a 7.5 as they say. The gun in the picture definitely has an edge on the rifle I am looking at. After reading these posts from each of you the gun I am looking at probably isn't what a collector would buy but to just shoot, it may not be a bad deal. I would love to see more pictures of your gun if you are willing to snap a few more. Some say these guns are unspectacular looking but I disagree and think they truly have a unique look.
     
  8. jason1965

    jason1965 mil-surp collector Forum Contributor

    I'll try to take some more photos tomorrow.It's finally started to rain up in my neck of the woods,and I like to take pictures of my guns outside.

    The main reason that I bought mine was for the unique design.I think it looks awesome and tough.
     
  9. jason1965

    jason1965 mil-surp collector Forum Contributor

    Here's the pictures I said I would post:
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Aug 26, 2010
  10. jason1965

    jason1965 mil-surp collector Forum Contributor

    Can anyone tell me what the D and the M stand for on the back of the bolt?
     
  11. kelt

    kelt G&G Newbie

    "D" and "M" on the bolt plug stand for "D= demontage" and "M= montage" that is; "disassembly" and "assembly".

    The bolt plug holds the fring pin and its spring in place inside the bolt body.

    To take appart the bolt:

    - Open the bolt and pull it out of the receiver while keeping the trigger depressed.
    - Push on the bolt plug ( the firing pin is in tension) and rotated it clockwise to position the D mark in front of the receiver mark.
    - Take out the bolt plug by releasing slowly the spring tension.
    - take out the firing pin.

    kelt
     
    Wolf7 likes this.
  12. jason1965

    jason1965 mil-surp collector Forum Contributor

    Thanks kelt,I owe you one.
    Jason M
     
  13. Thanks for all the photos, Jason. I never took a good hard look at a French rifle before now.

    Question for those who know these rifles - it sure looks like the front sight is a part of the front band / nose cap / bayonet lug / stacking swivel thingamabob. Does not look like it can shift while firing, but what happens if you take the whole thing apart and remove, as I am prone to do with newly purchased old rifles? Is it built to close tolerances so that when you put it back on it is where it should be? (Or, am I totally mis-reading the pictures?)
     
  14. frenchy

    frenchy G&G Evangelist Forum Contributor

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    French MAS Priced Right

    Thanks for the pics of your fine MAS Jason, I too have always liked the way they look and the prices make one a must have hopefully in the next year or so. jlwilkens if the gun is "good" thats ah great price.
    frenchy
     
  15. kelt

    kelt G&G Newbie

    The front sight on the Mas 36 is fitted to the barrel by a dovetail and soldered in place, it's not supposed to be in contact with the front band at all, same for the front band, it secure the forend and handguard to the barrel without touching it itself.

    A pre WWII rifle, the front sight is fitted to a forged base on the barrel, the dovetail is hard to see. on post WWII rifles, the dovetail was cut directly into the barrel cylinder.

    [​IMG]


    kelt
     

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  16. TheJoker

    TheJoker G&G Evangelist Forum Contributor

    Thanks, Kelt! That's a great look at the sight base.

    I'm still harboring the thought of trying to "float" that front sight on my K series. I need to move 100 meter point of impact 8 inchs to the right. I can't seem to find a rear leaf for adjustment.
     
  17. kelt

    kelt G&G Newbie

    A K prefix rifle could have either the 1st model rear sight with the notched sight leaf for which there is only one size offset leaf (G4) providing a shift of 67,5mm at 100M.

    If it has the notched sight base and smooth sight leaf, there are two size lateral offset leaf available (G4, and G8), G8 would give a shift of 135mm.

    Check the rear sight leaf that's on your rifle, is it a centered leaf (marked N) or an offset leaf before ordering a replacement.

    To correct a 8" or 203,2mm offset, you need to shift the front sight by 1.18mm, if you want to shift your front sight, it's feasible but tricky since the dovetail adjustment is very tight and hard soldered.

    I have a G serie rifle (built August 1939) when I bought it, it shot tight groups 170mm off to the right with a G4 notched leaf, I wanted to use a centered "N" leaf, that's a total offset of 238mm from centreline. I couldn't budge the front sight, and for fear of ruining the barrel accuracy, I ended up making another dovetail above the original, with the new shorter front sight shifted 1,39mm from the base to bring it POA with the centered N sight.

    You will have to work on the front band orientation to have the shifted front sigth centered between the two ears of the band.

    Here is a picture of mine with the tweaked front band after shifting the sight by 1,39mm:

    [​IMG]



    Here is a picture of the home made dovetail and shortened sight:
    [​IMG]

    kelt
     

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  18. TheJoker

    TheJoker G&G Evangelist Forum Contributor

    That is a clever solution, but beyond my means or ability.

    I've looked and looked for a replacement. With no luck. Numrich wouldn't even sort through their bins to see if they had the correct leaf after I offered to pay a "hand pick" fee.

    My rear sight is marked (N)eutral. I believe I need a G to correct. I'll take pictures and post later.