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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok,

I have this problem where my bolt catches serious friction during the cocking process, about half way through. I have to pull really hard on the op rod to get the slide all the way back. I've tried lubricating practically everywhere, but nothing helped.

I found out during the greasing process that when I don't lock my trigger group down into the stock, the bolt and slide operate flawlessly. Then, if I try to secure the trigger, it locks up again.

Any ideas?
 

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Have you recently dissassembled/reassembled the rifle? (Detail strip?) Some parts can be put in backwards. (Slide & follower come to mind here). If everything is lubed well, that's the only thing I can think of at the moment.

HTH

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I did field strip it. I'll double check to make sure nothing is backwards, but I doubt it because the slide operates just fine without the trigger group attached to the rifle.

I took a closer look at it by attaching the trigger group to the receiver without the stock. First of all, my trigger group has a little play. It isn't tight and secure, not sure if it should be or not. Anyway, if I turn the rifle over and pull the op rod back, I can visually see the bolt hit the hammer, even if its already been cocked. I can also feel the resistance its creating. The resistance becomes even greater if I put pressure on the trigger group (towards the receiver).

This makes sense to me now because when I fully assemble the rifle with the stock, the bolt actually gets stuck. (Alot of pressure and tension produced when the trigger group is attached). So I know and see the problem, but I'm not sure why its happening!

Im thinking the pin that holds the trigger group in is worn, causing some play to be introduced? Let me know how your garands are.

Thanks
 

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I've never attached a trigger group to a receiver without the stock, so can't comment there. If the stock is badly worn, lockup won't be tight, so I'd expect some play without the stock.

With the trigger group out, is it excessively difficult to cock the hammer? If the hammer spring housing has some old dried gunk between it & the hammer spring, it can get pretty stiff. A badly worn hammer or trigger pin can let the hammer/spring wobble & perhaps not engage the bolt in the notch as it should, but that should be easily noticed.

HTH

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I've pushed the hammer down with my own finger, and it was fairly stiff. I'm not really sure how stiff it should be..this is my first garand.

The stock doesn't appear to be worn, as lockup is very tight. I will try to take a picture tomorrow illustrating what I've seen, maybe it will help.
 

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Comparing the force required to lock your bolt back with another M1 would be helpful as this one is your first. I remember thinking to myself that it was really stiff when I pulled the op rod back my first time. If it doesn't require a Lot of effort, it may be normal. A good op rod spring is quite strong, and the added resistance of the hammer spring when the bolt engages the hammer is quite noticeable. Commercial autoloading high power rifles I've seen seem to have softer actions than the M1.

If you know someone in your area with M1 experience, have them take a quick peek at it. It's usually easy to spot most problems as you gain more experience.

BTW, Welcome to the Forum! (Had forgotten my manners). Also, welcome to the early stages of "Garanditis". There are many fellow addicts here.

HTH

Dave
 

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C354's comment about his bolt problem, brought me back to my M1 bolt problem. Maybe someone can give me some advice. First, it was an opr rod that slipped out of its track when cocking. Jim Swartz fixed the rod. Now the bolt rides out of its track (left side) during cocking. I have to push the bold back into its track in order to close it. This means that I can pull the bolt hardly halfway to the rear. I might add that I have also replaced the clip latch spring because the enbloc was ejecting early. Any ideas. There are no M1 smiths in the area. Thanks much.
 

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C354's comment about his bolt problem, brought me back to my M1 bolt problem. Maybe someone can give me some advice. First, it was an opr rod that slipped out of its track when cocking. Jim Swartz fixed the rod. Now the bolt rides out of its track (left side) during cocking. I have to push the bold back into its track in order to close it. This means that I can pull the bolt hardly halfway to the rear. I might add that I have also replaced the clip latch spring because the enbloc was ejecting early. Any ideas. There are no M1 smiths in the area. Thanks much.

That really sounds ominous. Is the left bolt lug that badly worn? Looking at one of my rifles, that would be a big chunk of bolt lug or receiver rail that should be obviously defective. Some pictures of the bolt lugs & rail would be most helpful. I can look the bolt specs up in my Kuhnhausen manual & post them if you like, but wear that bad should be easy to spot.

Dave
 

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Gunnerdave: I took another look. The bolt lug does not look that worn - shinny from some friction but OK otherwise. The rail looks OK also. It seems the bolt is being pushed up as it rides over the magazine follower (proper term?) during cocking. Should the two (bolt and follower) be in contact at all? Thanks for your help. Dan
 

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Hi Dan,

The follower and the hammer contact the bolt during cocking. When I manually cycle one of my M1's the rear part of the bolt does raise up a few millimeters.
I'm having a hard time visualizing the left front of the bolt coming up out of it's track, as it rotates downward when the right lug cams with the op rod. A picture would truly be worth a thousand words. Any chance you could post some?
 

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gunnerdave: I may have solved my problem with the M1. The addition of lubrication to the bolt and oprod guides and follower guides seems to have fixed the problem. I should have picked up on that at the outset of the problem. However, the M1 custodian at my American Legion Post added some grease lubricant a few months past. Maybe not enough. I will give it another try at the range in a few days. My thanks. Dan
 

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gunnerdave- Regretfully, lubrication did not fix the problem. So, I turned the M1 over to a very knowledgeable man who replaced the opr rod, opr rod spring, hammer spring, and clip latch spring (2nd new spring) and clip latch pin. Bolt stayed in its grove as did the opr rod handle. All looked good, very tight. We thought is was fixed for sure.......until we fired it. The first en bloc ejected after the 5th round and the second ejected after the 3rd. The only thing left is the clip latch (I think). I have one on order. However, the clip latch looks very good with little to no sign of real wear. What do you think? I'm about to give up on it.
 

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Hi Dan,

Looks like the only part you haven't replaced is the clip latch. Try it. If that fixes it, you're golden. If not, try a heavy duty clip latch spring. Hang in there. I almost hate to mention it, but timing may be an issue. Does the guy working on it have a timing block?

Dave
 
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