Garand newby

Discussion in 'M1 Garand' started by oldfart, Mar 18, 2002.

  1. oldfart

    oldfart Guest

    Hi all;Another Garand newby reporting Sir!I guess being a newby I get to ask a couple of stupid question's so here goes;I have an S/A with serial # 2613***.Anyone know when it was made?Also,many year's ago I had heard about welded receiver's on some M1's,how can you tell if you have one?Barrel is dated 5/60,but there is no import mark on the barrel.Would this still be an imported one?The rest is probably a mix master of part's.That's OK with me,as it is in very good condition.It's a real Garand and I'm in Love!!Any help with my question's would be really great....Thank's.....
  2. dannyboy

    dannyboy Guest

    Your Garand was made in late Jan, early Feb in 1944. Look at the the lower right side reciever leg for a rebuild mark, will be in electic pencel, marked as a month & year. ths is when the rifle was rebuilt. The barrel date may corrispond to the rebuild mark. Keep up with the forums and all this will make sense in time. Congrats on getting a Garand.

  3. willys

    willys Guest

  4. willys

    willys Guest

    Sorry still haven't figured this computer out.
    I am a Garand newby too, got my first on the 8 of this month.
    Take a look at this web site, it has some good stuff.
  5. militarianut

    militarianut Guest

    Hey thats were. ... . .

    I hang out is at the CSP forum. . . . . mainly at the Carbine forum though. Im beggining to look at it's big brother. - myers
  6. Hal Beatty

    Hal Beatty Guest

    A welded receiver is pretty easy to pick out. Most of the time you'll readily see the weld joint on the sides of the receiver, or at least some tooling marks that just don't look like they belong. A few (very few) have been done by a real craftsman and then you really have to look closely at the finish to notice a mismatch caused by metallurgical changes from the welding. I seem to recall that Fulton Armory had a section about the rewelds on their web site a while back.
    Best to stay away from a re-weld. The ones I've seen gave their owners fits with jamming, op. rods jumping out of the track and etc.

    Hal Beatty