gun safe question speedy replys appreciated

Discussion in 'Other Accessories' started by sbmopar318, Aug 13, 2010.

  1. sbmopar318

    sbmopar318 G&G Newbie

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    hey i looking at getting the gander mountain 48 gun 710lbs safe i was curious if anyone knew the chance i might have floor structur problems?? i have floor supports are 2by 8 and the location is over the concrete diving wall of basement and i have real wood floors house built in 40's someone please help
     
  2. oldjarhead

    oldjarhead G&G Evangelist

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    You should be good to go. If you have doubts place a support post or two under the cross members where the safe weight will be. That 710 lbs does not include gun weight so you could be encraoching on 1K lbs.
    Personally, I'd put in support posts to distribute the weight better. It's better to be safe than sorry.
     

  3. Mooseman684

    Mooseman684 G&G Newbie

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    Good question...710 lbs. + 500+ lbs. of guns = 1210 lbs +
    If the 2x8's are sitting right on a concrete wall and you put the safe over the top of the wall , then, it should support it. I would not put it anywhere that was not supported with pillars from underneath.
    People up here put them in the Garage on concrete floors...
     
  4. jmeck

    jmeck Scope mount mfgr. Forum Contributor

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    I bought my gun safe 2 years ago and have it mounted on a concrete floor. Having a gunsafe gives piece of mind about your investments.
    I have a friend who has his mounted on a wood floor. He has had no problems as far as the floor is concerned. I don't know for sure but I'd say a safe has about the same amount of weight per square foot as a waterbed or some of these hotubs people put in their house or on their deck.
    As far as the weight of contents, everybody I know who has a safe (myself included) cannot seem to fit as many firearms in the safe as it is advertised
    to hold. Chances are if you have 48 rifles it will only hold around 35-40 unless you place some in the safe with the muzzle pointing down. I agree with Mooseman on an estamated total weight of around 1200lbs full of firearms, ammo, and such. There is probably some info on the net that would tell you what your floor is capable of handling per square foot or check with some local home builders. You will need to know the spacing on your 2x8's
    to figure this out. I would also consider bolting your safe to the floor as I have heard stories of thieves wraping cables around safes and dragging them out of a house with a rollback truck and hauling them off. Good luck with your project.
     
  5. Personally,

    as a former homebuilder I would not put such a heavy object on the floor you describe. It is a lot of stress over time.

    If you buy the safe a load it up with guns, etc. I would at least move it about your floor area every few months.

    This object is better suited to a concrete slab.

    You would be better served with smaller safes spread about your home.
     
  6. If you can put it in the corner of the room you'll be that much better off and for the obvious increased structural support that tends to be in corners.

    One thing to make sure of before even buying/getting it is it's fire rating and the duration of same? Doesn't matter where it is or if it can fall through or not. I mean, if it isn't going to protect what's inside of it for very long it's not even worth getting and then worrying about it falling through the floor.


    And though in a corner, I've been expecting to either come home and find mine in the crawl space or be home and hear the crashing sound of it crashing through into it. lol
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2010
  7. sbmopar318

    sbmopar318 G&G Newbie

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    true glockmeister but to be honest the safe is not being purchased with concerns of fireproof but to prevent theft i live in a not so good neighborhood
     
  8. .22hustler

    .22hustler G&G Evangelist

    Make sure you have an appliance dolly that will handle the weight, also enough buddies and beer. My son's safe only weighs 510lbs, and that was a bear to move.
     
  9. woody1981

    woody1981 Love Your Firearms! Forum Contributor

    I agree. Mine weighs about 800 lbs, empty, and I put it on a concrete slab just to be sure. As someone said above, better safe than sorry.
     
  10. sbmopar318

    sbmopar318 G&G Newbie

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    well i just bought the hander mountain timber ridge for 899.99 48 gun safe 710lbs i cant wait 4 it to get here
     
  11. RockB

    RockB G&G Newbie

    Make sure that when the deliver it that they put a Refrigerator or freezer box over it. The last thing you want in that neighborhood is to have a bunch of people seeing you getting a bug gun safe delivered.
     
  12. I understand. But if you're going to spend the money, you might as well get one that has a fire rating, if even for only 30 minutes. You're not going to pay that much extra.

    But then you can just fire proof it yourself. All it has is fire code drywall and a seal at/on the door that is heat/fire activated.

    Doing it depends on how and how well it's made. But the easiest and best way is to get one already fireproof. Trust me, it won't, well seeing as how you already bought one and if it isn't, wouldn't have cost all that much more. I mean, you already, what, $900 + tax? If it isn't fireproof, another $100 bucks or so wouldn't have made much difference. lol

    Either way your call and up to you. Congrats on getting a safe.
     
  13. figure out what your floor joist are. most are on 16" centers. When I built my addition I designed the whole addition around a gun safe and I used 2x10s on 12in center and I have a small safe
     
  14. Uncle H

    Uncle H G&G Newbie

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    Sounds Like you got alot of advice on the safe, I have two safes in my home and my house is not on a slab. If your safe is placed against a wall , no bigger than it is you should not have any problems, now if it was out in the open, the floor might start to sag after awhile, also if you dont know what condition you floor is you might want to check that out. If you have hard wood floors, you can slid a safe that size all over the house on a soft blanket, another thing, if you have ceramic tile floors and roll a safe on a dolly across them, they may crack, put down something on top of the tile to spread the weight. I dont know who the person is who decides home many guns a safe will hold, but the number the manufactor comes up with is never a realistic number, they never seem to hold what the specs say they will hold, now if you took off all the scopes and removed all the bolts it might hold them LOL.
    Aonther tip, if you put gun socks on your long guns, you can stack them alot closer and get more guns in the safe without banging you guns up.

    Harold
     
  15. CrazyIvan

    CrazyIvan G&G Enthusiast

    Generally interior joists, your 2x8's for example, at 16" o.c. are designed to hold 40 pounds per square foot of live load and 10 pounds per square foot of dead load for a total of 50psf. They will safely hold 60-70psf, but more than that and you are asking for bending and eventually cracking in the joists. This can be said for any joists, so the following calculation can be used by most anyone.

    I looked up that safe, and it is 42"Wx25"D. So, that equates to about 7.3 square feet. 710/7.3=97.3 pounds per square foot. So, you are a bit over the design loads for the joists.

    This is anywhere in the clear span, meaning nothing supporting the joists from below. If you have a concrete foundation wall supporting the joists below where you are putting the safe, you should be fine, as foundation walls are designed to support 1,500-2,500 pounds per square foot on the footings below the foundation walls. And, the joists at the point right above the foundation have a crush pressure of something like 6500 lbs.

    So, the short answer is, if you are putting it where a foundation wall is providing support from below, you are fine. If you are anywhere where the joists are not supported below, your floor is not designed to support such a load, and will need additional support from below.

    Being in such an old house, like many of us, I wouldn't go much more than 50-60psf on those joists at a clear span. And, because you have wood floors, I would definitely put a carpet or something beneath the safe to protect the wood floor from being damaged. Maybe even build a small wood platform, like a wood pallette beneath, as you don't want moisture to get under there and rot your floor.
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2010
  16. john55555

    john55555 G&G Newbie

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    I found a great pistol safe on ebay that is biometric, so it opens to your fingerprint. it is very reliable and I would suggest buying it, It is spring loaded so you can retrieve your gun in less than 5 seconds after your fingerprint is read. It was listed as a 'biometric fingerprint keyless pistol safe'. Contrary to the listing it does have keys which can be used to open a hidden lock in the event of a blackout or EMP. :)
     
  17. DannyV

    DannyV G&G Newbie

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    There is a bunch that goes into what your floor can support. The type of lumber - white pine vs. yellow pine - the spacing of the joists and well as the length of the span. The concrete wall under the floor system may or may not be part of the load bearing system for your house - if it is walls above it should set on it. 2x8s are a bit small for modern construction, though more than adequate, 2x10s or TJIs are far more common and can support more live load. (Not knocking your house, just giving info). I am fairly certain that your floor system can support 40psf of live load and adding a safe to one section of the floor does not use up your 40psf. Though I would certainly brace underneath it to prevent sagging. 1000lb worth of weight is quite a bit in one spot. (I would prefer my homeowners place the safe on a concrete floor)

    Hope that doesn't cause to much confusion.
     
  18. CrazyIvan

    CrazyIvan G&G Enthusiast

    Not true. No matter what lumber is used, most interior living spaces are designed for either 30lbs, 40lbs or 50lbs (usually 40) of live load per square foot and 10lbs of dead load per square foot. This is required by UBC. Though the UBC has not always been in existence, the practices from the early 1900's were used to determine how to design a floor capacity.

    Decks, patios and converted attics can be different.

    Unless you live in a hut built by bubba, you can be pretty sure your home's floor will be designed around this outline.