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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I went to the range today, and after 5 boxes of ammo, on the last clip we had as my friend was shooting the gun - half way though - click. Nothing. We'd put more than a box and a half of the same stuff through the gun earlier, and three boxes of the other stuff through.

I found out that when I put a round into the chamber, the firing pin marked the primer if I let the bolt slam home nice and hard, but as soon as I pulled the trigger, it didn't hit the firing pin at all. If I put a round in the chamber and closed the bolt softly, there's actually no marks whatsoever on the primers of the cases.

What's going on? One of the guys at the range who qualified with a Garand at his basic training (slightly old timer, nice guy) said maybe the trigger spring is dead? How would that keep the firing pin from hitting home at all? The pin itself moves back and forth just the right amount with the bolt open, as the guy said it should, and as it did before - so the firing pin probably isn't broken. Is it the trigger spring, and how do I fix that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
can you hear the hammer drop when you pull the trigger?

Yeah, you can. And it doesn't sound much different than normal. It might be a little weak, which could be the trigger spring like the guy said, but i have no idea. The hammer does clearly drop.
 

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Make sure the weapon is unloaded, Drop a new pencil down the bore. Point the weapon upwards & pull the trigger. The pencil should not fly from the bore, but you should hear it jump up and come back down.
If you get some movement from the pencil (this is all non scientific mind you) the FP may be ok. Other possibilities: FP is worn or damaged (not long enough) Use calipers to measure. There is crud in the bolt not allowing it to protrude completely.
Another possibility is a headspace issue, I hope not. Ammo could be the culprit too, possibly get a different lot of ammo to try, (never mentioned brand of "stuff") primers may have been seated too deep or what have you.
There are others who are more Garand savy here than I. Gyrene, 7mmag, lefty, stock doc, eclancy:) among a few others. I have a book or two around, I'll try to dig them up when I get time.
 

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Other possibilities: FP is worn or damaged (not long enough) Use calipers to measure.
What is the correct length of the FP? I would assume it's the same accross the boards; Garands and Carbines, correct?

When I get back to the States I need to give my M1 Carbine a good going over.
 

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Fulton Armory has a firing pin protrusion guage. (a gunsmith may have as well) An easy way would be to do a comparison with a new FP. Not a bad idea to have a spare around anyway.

Shop manuals by Jerry Kuhnhausen are VERY detailed. I have one for the 1911 and highly recommend it.
 

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phrogg - jerry is right, get a piring pin protrusion gage, and a "new" firing pin, and check for yourself.

The Kuhnhausen books are excellent, and the one for the .30 Cal rifles has the dimension for the firing pin. There is so much more for you to learn from the book.

I would recommend it for anyone who has or likes an M1 Garand and/or the M14/M1A, at about $49.00 it is not cheap, but you will never find the complete detailed information anywhere else. Right at the present time my book is at the rifle range, or I could provide you with the firing pin dimensions. Maybe tomorrow.

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I would take the bolt out and check the firing pin as mentioned above. If you can not take it apart push on the tail end and see if the tip acts the same way. Grab the tip and turn at the back end and see if there seperated. It may have snapped in half. A broken pin will bounce the other half forward after it is hit but he back end and cause the dented primers still. The issue there is it may hit hard enough to fire a round fromt he inertia.

Head space could be a issue but to just stop firing is not a common problem and if it was out this much it would rip cases apart most probably so you would notice swollen cases or split if not torn off.


If your near Clevleand Ohio I can check ti for free if wanted? Rick B
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok... that's the problem.

Pencil test yielded nothing, but I think it's the rearmost part of the firing pin that broke. A small piece of metal fell out of the reciever when I stripped my gun for the second time and got stuck in the rotating part of the bolt, halfway open. I pulled it out, and it matches exactly the broken part coming from inside the middle of the very rearmost part of the bolt. It might be that the "tail end" of the bolt that Stock Doc wanted me to push on just snapped off - that'd explain it. I hear the click but the firing pin doesn't hit.

All I need is a new firing pin, I'm thinking. Any idea how much that'd go for, and whether I should get a gunsmith to do it or just do it myself? I'm handy, but i wouldn't bet the $675 i paid for the gun on that.
 

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You can ship it off to me and I will do it for free even put the firing pin in as I have a extra one here.
You need to put a few bucks in for shipping and I will get it back to you the same day. It is hard to explain how to take a bolt apart if you are not able to see it and even then the first few times are hard. Let me know if I can help. RIck B
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Wow, thanks!

You can ship it off to me and I will do it for free even put the firing pin in as I have a extra one here.
You need to put a few bucks in for shipping and I will get it back to you the same day. It is hard to explain how to take a bolt apart if you are not able to see it and even then the first few times are hard. Let me know if I can help. RIck B

Hey, thanks, that may just work. I'll check out local shops to see if I can spare you the hassel first, but I may take you up on that offer, thanks.

Do you have an FFL license? Does it even have to go through an FFL?
 

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Yes please only send the bolt. Thanks :wave: Jerry for the compliments on me also, I appreciate it allot and that is the biggest reason I enjoy doing this work. Rick B
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes please only send the bolt. Thanks :wave: Jerry for the compliments on me also, I appreciate it allot and that is the biggest reason I enjoy doing this work. Rick B

Hah... hah... i should have thought of just sending the bolt. my mind isn't working right today. o_o

Anywho, yeah, that'd be great! I just gotta find the instructions on how to get the bolt out of the reciever. I'll get back to you on that one when I get time later this week.
 

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Make sure you first removed the op rod spring, grip the op rod, pull rearwards and stop once the square area on the side on the op rod just forward of the handle it is just before this edge that the bolt hides under when pulled back. At this point wiggle it up and down and out. Move it backwards and forward at the same time and you will have it pop out. You can then pull the bolt forwards and out.
The photo shows exactly where the op rod should be and bolt as it separates. Hope this helps. Rick B

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I located my Kuhnhausen Book, and discovered there is a lot of information (that I didn't see before) regarding firing pins. He provides information for both the M1 Garand and the M14, and as I have said, if you are going to have an M1 Garand or M14/M1A around, this is a necessary reference book.

Firing pin dimensions, for the M1 Garand:

I am calling the part of the firing pin that is at the rear of the bolt, and goes through the bridge slot on the receiver, the "HOOK". The measurement must be taken from the machined inside surface of the "HOOK" forward, toward the firing pin tip.

Inside of the rear "HOOK", to the rear edge of the round near the firing pin tip. This is the "A" dimension 3.435" +.009 (or a max of 3.444")

From the rear edge of the round near the firing pin tip, to the firing pin tip. This is the "B" dimension.212 max/.195" min.

From the inside of the "HOOK" to the tip point: length 3.630" min/3.656" max.

Firing pin tip protrusion measured with the bolt out of the receiver, and the firing pin pushed in as far as it will go, should be: .044" min/.060" max (early spec was .059" max). {Incidentally, .044" min/.060" max, are the protrusion dimensions for the M14/M1A, too}.

`
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Firing pin protrusion... I didn't even think of that. I need to get it checked before I go shooting or my Garand might explode... yikes...

StockDoc there was kind enough to let me mail him my bolt and $10 then put his own firing pin in it and send it back. It should be on its way back today. Thanks, StockDoc - you're a great guy.
 

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Well here is a shot of the tail end broken off with a new firing pin in your bolt showing what was snapped off. I found black oilyish stuff and sand size dirt in the firing pin hole which bound up your pin helping to snap it off I bet. You are lucky it didnt snap in the fire position as when you would have loaded another round it may have exploded the round before it was closed due to the fireing pin protruding out of the face of the bolt.. This can blow the reciever , bolt or as bad as your face as has happened in the passed.
This is something allot of people overlook as they do not have a bolt tool so dont feel like I am picking on you and this is a fairly rare occerence so no one is boasting to check this area.
The bolt is on its way and happy to help, let me know when it arrives home. Rick B

 
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