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I'm New; Lots of dumb questions

Discussion in 'The Powder Keg' started by ABrads, Apr 11, 2002.

  1. ABrads

    ABrads G&G Newbie

    I'm stating the process of getting my first M-1 through the CMP. I want a Winchester and I don't want to go Danish, but money is an issue, so I am considering rack grade. I'm not planning to compete seriously, but I do want a gun that shoots ok (at least better than I do:rolleyes: ) So here's the question: if I gamble on rack grade and get a poor shooter, will replacing the barrel with a better one help? If so, what is involved in changing barrels? Is it a job I can do myself, or is there serious gunsmithing required? I hope some of you experienced guys can help a new guy with dumb questions.
     
  2. Stock Doc

    Stock Doc G&G Evangelist

    No the barrel changing will not hurt a shot out barrel at all. Easy as pie. You need a set of barrel and receiver wrenches from the CMP next a head space gauge for at least No-Go Then a cheap plastic level so you can pop out the level glasses. You set these on the front sight pad after removing the sight and the other on the tail right behind the rear sight but in front of the serial number area. IF you're northern Ohio I'll do it for you and save you the money of all the gear. Anyways take of the barrel with no worries now clean the new barrel and I put Rem oil Teflon oil on the threads and in receiver threads. I start it mount it in the barrel vise and mount the wrench to receiver. You now tighten and get the bubbles to be the same. It doesn't matter if there crooked it matters that both are equally crooked then you are centered. Now you head space according to the instructions that come with it and you are home. Hope this helps and it takes about 2 minutes to strip rifle and mount it then pull the mounts off and about 20 seconds to mount the barrel. You will die when you do it and wont believe how easy it is. Rick B
     

  3. No dumb questions here! Just someone that's just getting started out.
    If you get a "poor shooter", yes, changing the barrel would help if its got a bad bore. But there are a lot of other things to look at on a Garand before going that far. Things like the crown on the muzzle, fit of the gas cylinder to the barrel, fit of the action in the stock and etc.
    My poor ol' import Garand managed to keep everything in 5" out of the box. Recrowning the muzzle and peening the gas cylinder splines on the barrel to keep the front sight from moving around got it down to the 3" range. Almost acceptable. I did some other work to the handguards that helped a little, but finally broke down and had a 'smith install a Krieger heavy-weight barrel. That cost me about $350, but helped a lot!
    I doubt that any CMP Garand would ever be in as rough condition as my import was, so think you should end up with a reasonably good shooter, even with a rack grade.
    As far a replacing the barrel yourself goes, a good amatuer gunsmith COULD do it, but it takes a barrel vise and receiver wrench, the top of the gas cylinder and the rear of the receiver have to be accurately aligned, and new barrels generally come with a short chamber, so you would also have to have access to a "pull" chambering reamer. If you try everything else and it just won't shoot well, take it to someone with Garand experience.
    Just my experience.
    Hal Beatty
     
  4. ABrads

    ABrads G&G Newbie

    Thanks for the info. If I end up with a bad one, I might take you up on getting some help from you, Stock Doc. Northern Ohio is is not too far from here.