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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I picked up a neglected .22LR Higgins 103.229 the other day. It's a tube fed bolt action made in the 50's. It appears to be a Marlin model 81 in most aspects and most of the parts were easy to track down. The buttplate is a different size though, which means the stock is shaped differently too. I took a few measurements and did a little digging and think the Marlin 336 buttplate is a match.

I ordered new screws, a trigger guard, a rear sight elevator, and a buttplate. I overpaid a little for the rifle I think, and will be into it for about $110 with the replacement parts. But it does shoot, and it should be slick once it's all back together correctly.

I get soft in the head whenever I see an old .22 needing a home. Pictures when I get the parts and get it reassembled.
 

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I have the Marlin Model 80, same rifle but different magazine than the Model 81. It shoots very well.
JC Higgins (no "e") never made rifles, just renamed those of other manufacturers. I am surprised the buttplate was different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have the Marlin Model 80, same rifle but different magazine than the Model 81. It shoots very well.
JC Higgins (no "e") never made rifles, just renamed those of other manufacturers. I am surprised the buttplate was different.
Me too. I must need a new set of calipers.
The buttplate arrived today and I can conclusively say that the screw holes on the .336 are not spaced correctly for the stock.
Back to the drawing board for a replacement buttplate. The 336 will not work on a Higgins 103.229.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Measurements are all taken from retailers except the Higgins, for which I was not able to find measurements and hand measured.

The buttplate that came off the Higgins:
4 3/4" L X 1 5/8" W, SC 2 3/4" center to center

For Marlin 81,81 DL, butt plate:
4 9/16"L X 1 3/8"W, SC 2 13/16"

For Marlin 336 Buttplate,
4 3/4" L X 1 9/16" W, SC 2 13/16"

For Marlin 39A, 39 Buttplate,
4 15/16" L X 1 5/8" W, SC 2 3/4"
 
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I had a couple old .22LR rifles that needed new buttplates, and had trouble finding replacements, so I understand the frustration. That old plastic cracked and broke so easy.
 
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Here you go . IMG_20190516_172455.jpg IMG_20190516_172652.jpg IMG_20190516_173029.jpg

1&5/8 W
2&13/16 sc centers
4&3/4------4&13/16 H
From the profile it is slightly tapered at the bottom gives the 2 H dimensions .
Numbers may be part #. I got a part from Brownell .it is a marlin 81 .2nd gen has plastic butt plate and trigger guard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This one may get to stay on. It's not "broken", but chipped around the screw holes some. It's still perfectly functional, but doesn't look great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Here you go . View attachment 121594 View attachment 121596 View attachment 121598

1&5/8 W
2&13/16 sc centers
4&3/4------4&13/16 H
From the profile it is slightly tapered at the bottom gives the 2 H dimensions .
Numbers may be part #. I got a part from Brownell .it is a marlin 81 .2nd gen has plastic butt plate and trigger guard.
That's incredibly helpful. Mine says 17, then 23122 underneath it. if I can find a "23122" it's likely to be the correct plate. Thank you very much for pulling yours and measuring it for me!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sold out of buttplates, but I submitted a request to be notified when they come back in stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The rear sight elevator I ordered is .7 instead of .6, so it's marginally too wide. I will just take it down a little and fix the blue to make it right, no point in ordering a new one. The trigger guard fit perfectly. I never did find a buttplate to fit, and the Marlin 81 buttplate Screws are too big for the existing holes. The old screws are chewed up but the buttplate is serviceable, so I put it all back together.

I am now running into an issue with hard chambering. It's like the cartridge lifter is too tight or narrow and is holding onto the .22 rim with some force. I didn't notice it when I test fired the rifle, but I was standing up shooting outside at the time. On the bench at the indoor range I noticed it takes quite a bit of forward force to chamber the cartridge. It seems like an unnecessary amount, and is difficult to cycle while sitting. I can't do it without breaking my cheek weld.

Any thoughts on that?
A new lifter is $17 plus shipping, but I am hesitant to throw any more money at an $80 rifle that I'm already $110+ into.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I tweaked the lips a little to get mine to feed. I did find that you cant too deliberately slow cycling or it didn't work right.
I experienced the slow cycle issue too. I found if I slow close the bolt the cartridge doesn't align well with the chamber.

I will stretch the lifter out just a bit to see if it helps. Thanks for the reply, very helpful.
 

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Well I have an issue with feed and extraction now. Recently had a couple fail to extract. Makes a mess with the incoming round and freeing up a live round jammed in there pointing at you! W hen I got the rifle I read to check the cartridge guide spring .It was in fact broken. Ordered one from numrich. Barrel must be removed from the receiver to replace. Also read that it was only for the shorts and longs. Well it was feeding ok so I left it. Not feeding great now. Dug in to replace it. Rifle in pieces now
And can not find the new part ! Argh. Ordering another and an extractor tonight.
Lots of small parts on the bench waiting to become whole again
 
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