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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've been looking for some cheap 8mm mauser ammo (.323) and i have come across a lot of waht seems to be a bunch of good deals but then I take into consideration corrosiveness of old surplus and the cost of decent modern ammunition i.e remington core-lokt SP which is $1 a bullet which isn't that bad but I just want some cheap,safe,and reliable ammunition to shoot. Any information,sites,prices,names,etc. would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Mauser_Man1991
 

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Don't let corrosive put you off. Simply clean appropriately. I use black powder cleaner first, then follow with Hoppe's as usual. Don't forget to clean the bolt! You can either use commercial products like TC no. 13, or any other brand, or simply pick up a bottle of Windex all surface cleaner with vinnegar. At the range, I turn the rifle over so that I don't flood the magazine, point muzzle down, spray liberally, then pull a bore snake through. Follow with your favorite oil, and a second, dry bore snake. Wipe down the bolt with windex, dry, then oil. This holds me until I can get a thorough cleaning at home. The corrosiveness comes from the primer compounds when they burn, forming salts. I'm shooting Yugoslavian surplus, brass cased, heavy ball(AIM). All my Mausers shoot well with it, especially the Persian. Nothing but 9&10 ring at 100 yds. If you plan to put the rifle away for an extended period, as in several months, then I would run the old hot soapy water routine. If all this still puts you off, consider loading your own. I still load for my Turk. Much cheaper than commercial ammo, and with a little experimentation you might find something that can really bring out the accuracy of your piece. I can't afford $1 a round, but .25 to .35 is not so bad. You can get everything you need tool wise for about $200. or so, and components are readily available. And of course with more die sets, you can do other callibers, too. Saving about .70 a round, it doesn't take long to make back the investment! And it adds a whole other dimension to the sport. I can do this when it is too wet, cold, or hot for other activities.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah I've seen that yugo 8mm mauser surplus at AIM and I thinks it says 70's to 80's yugoslavian surplus on stripper clips. I was considering getting some of that but I don't know if it's too old or not(never really looked into old surplus until I got my K98).
Then I also saw some at cheaperthandirt.com that was some 40's vintage ammo and decided that was way to old for me. There was this ammo on midway.com that was called OLYMPIC greek ammo for $6 for 20 and it seemed like a deal but I read the consumer reports about the consistency of the shot and was just wondering if that mattere much.
 

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My friend and I have shot Turkish surplus, headstamped "1944", as well 1953 Yugo, and it all works just the same. Though the turskish stuff did have some split cases. I HIGHLY recommend the Yugoslavian surplus. I've shot the 70s stuff, and we're still trying to polish off the supply of '53 right now. Of course, we are using Yugo M48s. If you don't really feel comfortable shooting something that old, though, I understand.

Here's a link to a review of the Turkish stuff my friend wrote: Turkish 8mm Surplus

As for the Olympic stuff, it's pretty darn nice. It's loaded a bit hotter than the surplus; you'll get a flame about a foot long out of your muzzle, atleast in a 20" barrel. Fun stuff, but we haven't seen how it performs out to 300m +, yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It might not matter a whole lot about the age but i'm really attached to my K98 because it was a bring-back from my father and I really dont want anything to happen to the gun because a faulty bullet or something so i would probabaly go with the 70's to 80's production yugo or that Oylmpic 8mm. I'm still looking for something that's easy on the gun as well as the wallet. Thanks for all the information and any more of it,especially about corrosion would be a big help. Also I would like some tips on getting that cosmo out of my gun.
 

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Hmmm, we haven't gotten all of the cosmo out of ours yet either. We sure did try when we first got them, tearing off round after round for about 3 hours. Man, our benchrests, hands, clothes, whatever, had cosom on 'em. One thing we've heard that we're going to try is removing the stock and letting it hang out in the sun all day, whiping it down every so often. I like that method the most. We've also heard that some blasting from heat guns or putting the stock in an oven work. But, again, you may not feel comfortable doing either of those.

As far as corrosion goes, I believe the 70s and 80s yugo stuff is. We live in AZ, so I can let it sit for a few days without problems, sometimes more. If you live where there's humidity, just about everyone will tell you to spritz a good amount of Windex into your bore after you shoot to neutralize the corrosive salts. You should probably do that anyway, no matter how dry it may be where you live, just to be safe. After that, clean it as normal. I ended up getting a little bit of pitting towards the crown of my muzzle from neglecting it for about a month. It's a wonder it's not worse.
 

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Im the friend hattrick mentions. The 1800 rounds of surplus yugo ammo was the BEST price on 8mm I could find. It was delivered by UPS a week after I ordered it and was only $126 , that works out to 7 cents per rounds, or 1.05 per box. So far we haven't had any split cases with this stuff. But if you want to go surplus, get the 70's Yugo, its supposed to be pretty darn good. Although all surplus 8mm ammo should be considered corrosive. Ive also used about 100 rounds of the olympic, its pretty decent stuff, the primers seem pretty soft though (not a big deal). Also this ammo seemed to be pretty "dirty" in that it left mroe powder residue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
At aimsurplus.com there is this 70's yugo that is 32.50 plus shipping for 380 bullets and I was wondering if thats a good deal or not.

P.S its not on stripper clips
 

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It might be good depending on how much shipping is. I'd suggest you call Century Arms (their webshop is down) and ask about any 8mm specials, or about the 70's yugo in particular, their shipping is flat rate of $12.50 for the first $500, but unfortunatly there is a minimum order of $75. When I Ordered 2 cases of the 50's stuff they threw in free shipping, as they were running a special at the time.
Toll Free: 1-800-527-1252




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That stuff is Romanian, not the same kind of Yugo we swear by. I havn't heard anything about it, good or bad. My only concern ight be that it's lacquer coated, which can melt and cool rapidly in your chamber, getting stuck. That's what happened to our friend's Mosin Nagant when he used lacquer coated ammo.

If you cycle it quick enough, I imagine you won't have too much of a problem. Up to you. As for the good ol Yugo stuff, try here:
http://www.ammunitionstore.com/Images/Ammo/A063.htm

Turkish is also great, but again, didn't perform quite as well as the Yugo did. These are all all unique experiences, keep that in mind.
http://catalog.jgsales.com/itemdetail.php?itemnumber=5-66c

In the end, try em all. You'll find what works best for you and your rifle. Enjoy!
 

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I placed a post under Military rifles/ Mausers "Cheap ammo $$$"

Hey guys, I was reading some old postings of yours that I was taken to by a google of Mauser ammo. Anyway I have a question for Hattrick or anyone who has any info on it.
Romainian ammo. You mentioned lacquer ammo and how the cases stuck in the breach.

Does this happen ofter?
Worse yet does this leave a uncleanable film in/ on your rifle???
Can it be removed and with what. I have "EDS RED" bore cleaner. I made a batch but have not used it yet.
Bottom line can it be removed. I just purchased 1400 rounds Romanian at a good price.

By the way... Olympic 5.79 for 20 rds. @ 1 888 543 7537...
.20 per round.. Not bad.
 

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Barbade, the only actual experience I have had with ammo getting stuck in a chamber is with my friedn's Mosin-Nagant 1891/30 using lacquer-coated Czeck silver-tip ammo. What would happen is a spent case would get stuck in the chamber, making it almost impossible to open the bolt. The lacquer from previous rounds, constant heating from shooting, and cooling from opening the bolt, would cause it to become almost like glue.

It's a fairly reasonable assumption that something lacquer-coated would perform similar in another gun, in another chamber. The most common solution for Nagant users is to use a cordless drill with a shotgun bore-brush and some polishing solution in the chamber. After that, there seems never to be an issue.

As for cleaning corrosive stuff out of the bore, any regular solvent will really do the trick. Sometimes, I'll put a patch on the rod-end piece that has the loop in it, and run a soaked patch through the barrel and let it sit for a few minutes. It starts to work immediately, so I figure I'll let it break some of the gunk down. Then, just clean like normal until you're satisfied.

It's not as big a demon as some would have you think, although I live in AZ where it's very dry, and where moisture doesn't attack my bore the minute I leave the range. You'll very quickly have your own little cleaning ritual that works. And yes, ritual, not regimen. :D

And, oh yes, that olympic stuff is :flame: :nod:
 
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