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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Are the M44 NAGANT RIFLES listed on the Classic Arms Inc. web site for $80.00 a good value?

I don't know much about them - educate me. Thanks :)
 

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$80 That would be the low end of the price range for an M44 of nice condition.
I don't want to throw too much trivia at you, but you asked for an education.

1. 7.62x54mm coparable to 308 or 30-06 performance

2. Heavy recoil.

3. Possibly sighted in with bayonet extended and can change point of impact with the bayo folded.

4. Some are really good shooters, but as always, the litters have their runts.

5.Very interesting firing pin safety which requires you to pull back the knob on the back of the bolt and rotate it to the left.

6. Great potential as a sporerized rifle, but fantastic as is.

7. Five round capacity, able to reload with stripper clips.

8. Known for a trigger that can use improvements.

9. Also known for a fireball of a muzzle flash

10. last but not least, may cause dependency with an urge to buy more of the rifle's like.:scool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thanks for the quick reply.
I did get to shoot one of the rifles MosinDave has about a year ago and enjoyed shooting it.
The fireball was impressive! I didn't notice much recoil though.
Other than that one experience, I know nothing about these rifles. . . Who makes the M44?
I'm looking at a local FTF cash deal on one that just had the cosmo cleaned off, what should I check for?
The seller states it has a star stamped on it and all numbers are matching.
Thanks ~
 

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The Mosin Nagant type rifles were made by a variety of countries. Mainly Russia.

Take a look at the bore and make sure it's not too pitted or anything. I don't think you can go wrong for 80 bucks in a FTF with no transfer fees.

ps we want pics! :)
 

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Rex, check to see if it's a bare star or a star w\an arrow in it. This will be a Russian rifle, but there were several different arsenals building them. This one is most likely a Tula (arrow in star), but a few were made by Sestroyevsk (sp?) that have a star only marking. FWIW, Classic arms is a great co. to deal with, really classy folks. A few years ago, you could find M-44's for less than $50 but the prices are definitely rising. If you run across one in good shape, $80 is not a bad price. BTW, a barrel that hasn't been counter-bored is preferable but it's not an absolute neccesity.
 

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Another thing to look for is cosmoline in the chamber. It can cause what we all like to call "sticky bolt syndrom" which can make cycling the bolt after firing very difficult. The best way I know of to fix this is to use a 20 gauge bore brush, a short length of cleaning rod and chuck it into a power drill and run that through the chamber. That should polish it quite nicely. After that, use a bore mop or patch coated in Hoppes 9 or other solvent followed by a dry patch, followed by an oiled patch to be certain that the chamber is thouroughly clean.

Another thing that can reduce the problem is avoiding laquer coated shells which will melt, sticking inside the chamber.

P.S. When using corrosive ammo, remember to clean your bore with an ammonia based cleaner or windex followed by a normal cleaning. The ammonia will counteract the corrosive salts of the "berdan" primer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks for the excellent information.
I should meet with the seller over the weekend.
I'll let you know how it works out.

How would I spot a counter bored barrel?

This is what $80.00 will get me ~


Is Bulgarian 147 Grain Lead Core ammo any good?


.
 

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Clasic arms is a excellent company to do business with. I was down there just last week, and picked up an M91/30 for my son. I got to go in back and hand pick the one I wanted.

Nick
 

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A counter bore barrel is drilled in a little bit, if you look down the barrel, you will see a step in the rifle about a quarter inch down, maybe a tad more.

That rifle looks good but I'll point out that the buttstock has been repaired. I think that's fairly common and shouldn't really hurt anything.

edited to add: make sure the thing is unloaded before you go sticking the barrel in front of your eye to look for the counter bore.
 

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I doubt that's a repair. A whole lot of stocks were made that way to begin with--either so they could use a narrower piece of wood, or to avoid the tendency of that part of the butt to split off along the wood grain.
 

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Hmmm, I didn't know that. That would explain why I've seen several stocks on Ebay (or used to) that had that part completly missing. I couldn't figure out why. I don't think any of those have that, but now I have an excuse to pull my 5 out and play with them a bit. :)
 

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P.S. When using corrosive ammo, remember to clean your bore with an ammonia based cleaner or windex followed by a normal cleaning. The ammonia will counteract the corrosive salts of the "berdan" primer.
This is a widely held misconception. The ammonia doesn't do anything to the salts. It will react with the copper fouling, but not the salts. I spent some time with a chemistry professor figuring this out.

What Windex does do is provide a soapy environment and will help "pre-clean" any salts, giving you time to give it a proper cleaning.

My personal preference is to open the bayonet, stick it in the ground, and pour boiling water down the barrel. This washes the salts out and heats the barrel. Heating the barrel opens the pores in the metal and helps get the gunk out.

Brown bores are common. This occurs when they were put away without proper cleaning, and no matter what how much you clean it initially the patches keep coming out dirty. Fortunately it's usually not much of a problem and will eventually go away. I shoot on average 3-4 times per week and clean thoroughly after every outing. My bore on my M44 is starting to lose the "brown".

Take a coin-style "no-go" headspace guage with you, or at the very least, a field gauge. If it doesn't pass that test, pass it up and move on to the next rifle.

Josh <><
 

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Don't think the stock is a repair. As was already said a lot of them were made that way. The stock on my M38 looks like that. My m38 is also counter bored and it shoots fine, mind you it wont knock dimes off a fence post at 500 yards, but a 100 it'll take out an old aol cd.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Excellent information guys!

Take a coin-style "no-go" headspace guage with you, or at the very least, a field gauge.
If it doesn't pass that test, pass it up and move on to the next rifle.
Where can I get a head space gauge before Sunday?
 

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I really don't know. You might ask your local gunsmith - I borrowed mine from a friend who was in gunsmithing for 25 years until he got sick of the bull associated with it. Of course he wanted them back.

You might call these guys and see if they can put a rush on it: http://hometown.aol.com/yankeng/

Here are a couple, but you might dig around for more:
GunBroker.com guns: Headspace Gauge Set For 7.62X54R Mosin Nagant. (item: 82413532 ends: Oct-11-07 09:31:13 AM)
GunBroker.com guns: Headspace Gauge For 7.62X54R Mosin Nagant. (item: 82413623 ends: Oct-11-07 09:36:40 AM)

Josh <><
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Classic Arms

Clasic arms is a excellent company to do business with...
My research has confirmed that Classic Arms in an excellent company to deal with and that their rifles are the cream of the crop.
The M44 I am buying should be no exception.
 

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Ugh................Rex I have heard so many things about them. I personally got a mauser and it was not it the condition described. Shop around local gun dealers see what they have for selections.
 

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A counter bore barrel is drilled in a little bit, if you look down the barrel, you will see a step in the rifle about a quarter inch down, maybe a tad more.
That rifle looks good but I'll point out that the buttstock has been repaired. I think that's fairly common and shouldn't really hurt anything.
edited to add: make sure the thing is unloaded before you go sticking the barrel in front of your eye to look for the counter bore.
I always carry a couple of toothpicks with me to gun shows. If I have any doubt about whether a barrel is counterbored, I probe around the muzzle end with the toothpick to find either the beginning of the counterbore or the tables and lands, depending on what the answer is. It's also a good way to judge the condition of a crown on a non-counterbored rifle.
 
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