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M48A sights/Removing

Discussion in 'The Powder Keg' started by colt45, Mar 21, 2002.

  1. Ok, Here goes. I have a few mausers and love to shoot them as is.
    But, I have a M48A that has a nice bore and stock with a broken rear sight (at the mount, one ring is broken) the front is not in much better condition. So I got a brain storm to put a scope on it.
    I have allredy put the scope mounts and scope on it and it looks sweet.
    all but those broken sights.
    Does anyone know how to remove the sight from the bar.????:confused:
    Any help would be welcomed I hate to see this gun just sit in the corner because its ugly.
     
  2. Klaus

    Klaus G&G Newbie

    There is always the old bench grinder and dremel, if you mask it and have a steady hand.
     

  3. Tony @ WCG

    Tony @ WCG G&G Newbie

    56
    0
    Ohio
    Do you want to remove the sight base from the barrel? Remove barrelled action and strip all parts, remove the 1 screw in the rear base, remove the leaf, remove the spring if you can (some are well stuck). Place in a padded vise and heat the base with a propane torch until the solder gets soft then tap the base off with a brass hammer. Once you do a few, they come off real easy. For the front sight, remove the blade, remove the little screw under the blade, heat and slip off.
     
  4. Tony,
    Are the sights just soldered on?
    I have the blade and front sight and screw out allready, but thought they where welded or something, cause they don't just slide off.
    I called my girlfreinds brother(ownes a gun shop) and his gun smith says they where just pressed on and should come right off.
    They didn't so here I am.
    Do I need to refinish the gun after I heat it up or will the blueing be ok?
    At any rate thanks for the info.
     
  5. Tony @ WCG

    Tony @ WCG G&G Newbie

    56
    0
    Ohio
    All mauser fron sight bases and rear sight bases, no matter what model or what country made them, all are soldered on. On the front sight, always remember that there is a screw under the blade. Once removed, heat it up until you see little beads of solder coming out around the edges, tap off. Always wear safety glasses too! You probably won't hurt the bluing any but there will be some solder than needs cleaned off where the sight base was ans that area will not be blued.
     
  6. Tony,
    THANK YOU!
    It worked perfectly thanks for the info.
    They came off just fine.
    I reblued the whole works for uniform look and its sweet!
    Do you know of anyone that makes the top of the stock that I can get without the rear sight hole cut out allready?
     
  7. Sutro

    Sutro G&G Newbie

    I've never heard of or seen the kind of upper forearm you describe. A competent woodworker could probably inlet a piece of walnut, much like you'll occasionally see done to raise the comb of a rifle (usually older ones - inexpensive modifications like this have fallen out of favor. If you're under 50 you may not have seen what I'm talking about.) and then reduce it to the upper forearm's contours.

    This actually would be quasi-correct: Had the upper forearm you describe existed (e.g. for sniper rifles) it probably would have been fabricated as above at an armory. For example, bolt handles on M-48 and M-48A sniper rifles were simply ground flat to clear the scope instead of bent or having a new bolt handle installed (this only works if the scope is mounted high, as it would with a lever-detachable military mount).
     
  8. UPPER FOREARM PLUG

    HAVE THREE UPPER FOREARM UNITS THAT HAVE BEEN PLUGGED AND LOOK FINE. I THINK THEY WERE DONE AT THE FACTORY WHEN UPGRADED TO SNIPERS