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Neat little article I found about why Linssed oil is better.

Discussion in 'The Powder Keg' started by Stock Doc, Jun 8, 2002.

  1. Stock Doc

    Stock Doc G&G Evangelist

    Go to this link and read this article. Choose for youreself what you think is right but it sure makes allot of sence compared to the few folks who talk bad about Linseed oil on other forums. Rick B
  2. JackT

    JackT G&G Newbie

    Great Article. I just finished my new walnut stock with LS oil and was amazed. The WWII stock on my rifle has been sanded down at least x2 and was very thin at the trigger assembly and didn't tighten up good to the receiver. Only the circle p and an extermely faint ordinance circle was left. I have a new shooting stock now. My rear hand guard was too dark, but had an oil finish. A little rubbing with 00000 steel wool lightened it up. I sanded off the shiny finish on the front handguard and applied more LSO. Worked it untill all match now. I am very happy for a newbee Garand owner and wood worker.

    One Question. I can't find the Minwax paste for dark wood. Only can find for light wood at Lows or HD. Any ideas? I have also had some good wood guys question this, they say just periodically put on oil. Thanks to Stock Doc.

  3. Try TRU-OIL has lS and other drying agents. Nice results.
  4. Stock Doc

    Stock Doc G&G Evangelist

    True oil is nice and especialy for a outdoor shooter or hunting rifle. You need to cut it { for Vintage Military Look} very carefully with 0000 steel wool or if the grain is flat use car polishing compound. If the grain is deep it will harden in the pores and stay there looking like paint.

    Not sure of where to get the Minwax for Dark furniture where you are at. I bought mine at teh Wood Workers store near me. Loews by you may be out of the For Dark Color. Here is a link to the way to use it. Rick B
  5. Personally, I think the article is hogwash. I used to go to sea for a living. I have built and maintained boats for a living, and nobody, and I mean nobody uses linseed oil on their hulls. Primarily, because of maintenance, since it won't last more than a week in a salt water environment.

    Linseed, lacquers, and shellacs are hygroscopic. I have a couple of pretty accurate bolt guns with old stocks that have linseed finishes. When the humidity changes dramatically, guess what? i get enough warpage to change the point of impact. This will not be as evident on a two-piece stock like on a Winchester lever gun, but it is very evident on a system in which the stock acts as the foundation of the firing platform.
    Now, what real sailors use to preserve wood at sea is polyurethane spar varnish. This turns aout to be an excellent and durable finish for wood stocks on firearms, too. But to prevent the slight warpage problems similar to what you get with linseed oil, you have to seal the entire stock, inside and out. It works much, much better than oil finishes, and now you can get it in gloss, satin, or matte, so that you can get exactly the effect you desire. I refinished a custom stock on a ZKK602 with matte spar varnish, and it looks all the world like a hand rubbed oil finish. And the owner reports that there is no change in impact regardless of weather conditions.

    I've done dozens of stocks this way with excellent results, and IMO, there is no reason to use oil ever again, unless you are restoring a collectible.
  6. Stock Doc

    Stock Doc G&G Evangelist

    I guess you haven't had one I did. Linseed oil is moody and needs some help. Yes if you soak mine in water to long you will loose the finish. I add some dryers and this helps allot for the correct finish that the gun once had. All firearms should be treated nicely and with Linseed oil a minor maintenance program is well worth the look. Just thought some reading material would be nice and here are some good points in the article with maybe a few off a bit but Linseed oil was added to paint for many years and many still use it. Rick B
  7. VVG

    VVG G&G Newbie

    No, that's what cheapskates use. Real sailors use Sikkens Cetol, a synthetic finish that breathes (so it stays on), doesn't require sanding between coats, and is the consistency of water. It also lasts 2-5 times as long.

    Those who can't bring themselves to use Cetol, or clones Armada or West Marine WoodPro (because they're not water clear, though new grades are better) use Epiphane's.

    Haven't tried these on a stock.
  8. JackT

    JackT G&G Newbie

    Ace is the Place in Georgia for Minwax paste for dark woods. I am new, but it sounds like a debate for people that restore for history and those that want pure shooting accuracy. I want a little of both and a little wax over the oil sounds good to me.
  9. Stock Doc

    Stock Doc G&G Evangelist

    That is simple Buy a Boyd's or a good G.I. stock that has no markings or a old stock for heavy Urethanes. If the stock is a WRA/RS with no markings it can fish upwards of $1000.00 if it is a early hand carved which many would sand it complaining that some jerk carved up the stock and are clueless to its origin. A modified butt WRA/RS or a WB in Second box is another and these kind of stock can be ruined in a urethane finish. Mainly as the finish will need to come off and wood removal is going to happen. So yes urethane finish's are fine with certain wood but you need to check before slapping it on a stock that may be a small pot of Gold. Rick B