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Need advice re post ban muzzle brakes

Discussion in 'The Powder Keg' started by Mico, May 1, 2002.

  1. Mico

    Mico G&G Newbie

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    Bought one of the recent Romainian SAR-1's, and got the threaded adaptor (has 4 allen set screws) to go on my (sadly) non-threaded politically correct barrel. The adaptor, meant for an SKS, was .02 inches to small, so I opened it up a little, and it fit snugly with light tapping.

    I then attatched an AK74 style brake, took it out back, and found the bullets were being slightly deflected by the brake...just a hair, but enough to miss by an embarrasingly huge amount.

    In all honesty, I bought the brake and adaptor for dressing up a rather nekkid barrel end rather than for reducing kick (not enough to complain about) or muzzle climb (ATF gets really pissed off when you go full auto without a class III, so I'm strictly semi-auto).

    Anyone have advice? Should I open the bore of the brake itself so the bullets pass through without interference? Should I scrap it? Am I wasting my time? Is there another product known to work with post ban rifles?
     
  2. Klaus

    Klaus G&G Newbie

    Souns like it is misaligned. If you want it on there, remount it using a good jig and braze it. It it is still causing trouble, take the barrlt to a machine shop and have them bore it out slightly in a lathe. I am fairly certain that it would be illegal for you to thread the barrel.
     

  3. BattleRifleG3

    BattleRifleG3 G&G Evangelist

    Maybe stick a rod down the barrel that will come out as straight as possible. Attach the brake to the adapter and slide it on. There should be room to wiggle it a little. Position it so that the rod is in the center of the brake. Making sure it holds that position, slowly tighten the set screws. Sounds like there was just too much play in it.
     
  4. Calvin

    Calvin G&G Newbie

    Klaus and Battle are right. Take the muzzle brake, and have it brazed in place. The brake was out of whack, and it needs straightened. Most gunsmiths will align and braze for a very reasonable fee. The adaptors aren't worth much, and, unless you have the adaptor brazed, it will eventually shoot loose, and then the REAL fun begins. Had a friend who used the same adaptor, and shot it maybe 150 rounds. The last round fired through it took the brake, adaptor and all, and launched itself downrange. The screws had left an indentation on the barrel.
    When it finally let loose, it left deep gouges where it had come off of the barrel. If that's not bad enough, the spinning of the bullet actually caused a vortex, and created circular cuts to the outside of the muzzle, which invariably affected the accuracy.

    The barrel shot about 2" at 100 yards before. After, it shot about 6". The barrel has since been replaced, and all is well now. The gunsmith said the adaptors were a bad idea, and he has had lots of work come in because of them. His advice was to just braze it, and skip the adaptor. HTH
     
  5. Mico

    Mico G&G Newbie

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    Appreciate it, guys: Leads me to my next question: Are threaded barrels available, and is such a thing legal? That really sounds like it would be the best way to go, if the laws allow it. I've heard stories like Calvin's friend as well, and honestly, can think of better things to do then launch brakes at a target.
     
  6. J.A.

    J.A. G&G Newbie

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  7. Sutro

    Sutro G&G Newbie

    JA's got it nearly right. You can thread the muzzle, but not in a threading that will accept a flash hider. Threads for flash hiders generally are 14-1 (Eastern Bloc standard) or 1/4 X 28 (American standard). If you thread the muzzle for an oddball threading, there's no problem: SAR-2 original front sight blocks have a threading that no flash hider will fit, so a lot of folks with this gun get that and the compensator from KVAR and install it. They're among the few folks with a legal post-ban removable compensator.

    If the threading is that which will accept a flash hider, the compensator then must be welded in place. Some folks say that high-heat (not silver) solder or blind-pinning is OK with ATF, but there seems to be a bit of dispute about that. Everyone concedes that welding is OK. I would presume that brazing is OK, but note that it'll be very noticable.

    If you use a setscrew-mounted adaptor or compensator, as Calvin pointed out, they have a reputation for shooting loose.

    What I did on my SAR-3 is buy a AMD-65 brake from Global, in 14-1 threading like nearly all Eastern Bloc compensators. The muzzle OD of the SAR-3 is smaller than your SAR-1, so the comp slip-fit onto the end of the gun. I then drilled and tapped a 10 X 28 hole in the bottom of the comp for a setscrew, dimpled the barrel where the setscrew hit, gobbed everything together with JB Weld (industrial-strength epoxy), and clamped the setscrew down as hard as I could. With the relatively large 10 X 28 threading, minimal risk of stripping the threading. That was several hundred rounds ago. This gives a cleaner-looking installation than using an adapter, and the single setscrew under the comp is hardly noticable.

    You could do the same thing if you wanted by having a comp's ID opened up to the SAR-1's muzzle OD. The AK 74 comp you're using is generally conceded to be the most efficient. Note that as a general rule the more efficient the compensator the more it increases muzzle blast.