P-Series Trigger Job??

Discussion in 'The Powder Keg' started by Mark, Feb 16, 2003.

  1. Mark

    Mark G&G Newbie

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    Does anyone know how to perform a trigger job on these? Any diagrams of the trigger mechanisms? I see that Wolff sells hammer springs for these pistols, but I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with them.


     
  2. ACTIONSBYRAK

    ACTIONSBYRAK G&G Newbie

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    Yes standard action work can be perfomed on the p-series pistol, although you do not see people listing this service is because the cost of the action job {$95.oo in our shop) ,usally people buy them for there price not wishing to invest any more in to them.

    But yes you can perform trigger work on these pistols just like any other.

    RON KONTOWSKY
    DEANS GUNSHOP
    <www.deansgunshop.com/>
     
  3. jerry

    jerry Patriotic Member Forum Contributor

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    I think they are pretty much tinker proof, not tamper proof. The trigger does it's job for the price of the gun and it's intended use. I can understand wanting an improvement there. I had a P-90, liked it, but the urge to do my own work drove me to a 1911. I did notice however, the more I shot the P-90 the better the trigger felt. It should get smoother with a good break in. (several thousand rounds)

    Hang in for a while, mabe someone has a better answer.
     
  4. jerry

    jerry Patriotic Member Forum Contributor

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    There Ya go!
    Gotta love this place. :)
     
  5. Jesse

    Jesse G&G Newbie Forum Contributor

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    The tough thing about Rugers, especially the P-Series pistols is the list of "restricted" parts that Ruger will not supply unless you send the pistol back to them, and then on an exchange- only basis. These items are marked with an asterick in the Ruger manual supplied with your firearm.

    Back about a year ago, I did some armorer's work on my brother's P-90 Ruger. I was able to do the following work on his frame and complete lower using a Radocy disassembly guide for the P-89DC, which I found at a local gunshow and is now sold through Brownells (#551-000-012):

    1) polish trigger

    2) polish sear and face of hammer

    3) polish contact points of abrasion on the trigger bar

    4) polish hammer strut (top and side points of contact)
     
  6. Jesse

    Jesse G&G Newbie Forum Contributor

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    I replaced the following springs in the P-90 lower:

    1) hammer (25# Wolff)

    2) magazine catch... a word of caution: I have heard that all P-90s with one coil mag springs will experience spring breakage and fatigue at some point early in their life. The spring offered now has two eye coils and is stronger. Replacing this spring is a chore to say the least. I first called Ruger's NH R&D to find out what the procedure was. It took three techs to come up with an answer because the armoror's school instructor was out. It is a bear to replace, so if yours needs replacing, the part is offered in the Brownells catalog (#780-000-616). Call Ruger R&D in NH or AZ. Get an R&D tech. on the phone because a secretary will tell you to send your pistol in.





    I degreased the frame of the P-90 before reassembly and sprayed it with two coats of Aluma- Hyde from Brownells (#083-003-000). This gave the frame a flat black color.

    I then reassembled all the lower internals and checked for proper function.

    I found a pair of custom rosewood grips at a gunshow. I fit these and touched up the edges with gun wax. I also replaced the grip screws with new ones for Brownells (#780-001-049).

    I sent the slide off to have a bead blast and a black moly-coat applied. In the process, the shop I sent the P-90 slide to performed a carry melt, replaced the firing pin spring (Wolff), and installed Ashley Big-Dot Tritium sights [supplied by me, Brownells part (#006-102-085)]. This is the way to go for replacement sights. We also installed a Firedragon all steel buffer from norecoil.com.

    The slide is not "user friendly" for disassembly. Unless the firing pin needs replacing, (like say, if you shoot a lot of Wolf ammo and jam it up), I would leave it alone. The extractor has to be removed to take down the safety, and if you're not careful, it will break, which means a trip for your P-90 to Ruger.
     
  7. Mark

    Mark G&G Newbie

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    Thanks Jesse and ACTIONSBYRAK

    A few quick questions:

    1. What did the new hammer spring do for the gun? Or did you perform a lot of changes at once? I saw that Wolff had these, but didn't know if it would make a difference by itself.

    2. Could you get your hands on a photo of the gun with the carry melt slide? I'd love to see it, as I'm sure everyone else would!

    I have an older P-85 MkII, and the action on it just feels slicker, and the trigger better than my P-90. The thing that really got me interested was my new Taurus Tracker .45 ACP. Man, what a great trigger!
     
  8. Jesse

    Jesse G&G Newbie Forum Contributor

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    The cost of the slide work was $100.00.

    The cost of the Ashley sights was $65.00

    The cost of all the springs was $6.00

    The cost of the Firedragon buffer was $85.00

    The cost of the Ashley sights was $67.50

    The cost of the Radocy guide was $5.00

    The cost of all shipping was approx. $45.00

    Total cost: $373.50

    (He got the P-90 on a trade so I don't have the cost of the pistol to report).

    This package really gets the Ruger P-90 up to speed. My brother loves his new P-90, all black with dull stainless highlights and custom engraved rosewood grips. It has a smooth DA and a crisp SA which only aids its 1 1/2" at 25 yards, 230 gr. .45ACP ball accuracy.

    Hope this helps...

    ( I accept no responsiblity for the previous posts in this thread, nor any on GunandGame.com. They are for informational purposes only. You use the information provided at your own risk and free will.)
     
  9. Jesse

    Jesse G&G Newbie Forum Contributor

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    I'll see if I can ask my brother for a few pics. I am sure it has seen some use because he carries it everywhere he goes.

    I do have a new P-90 with basically the same features except it also has a Firedragon buffer and ported barrel from norecoil.com. I have to say, if you want a hotrod DA .45ACP for bowling pin or competition (allowing ported barrels), this is the ticket. Cor-Bon 230+p feels like .38 wadcutters on this platform. The load has a MV of around 1,000 fps.

    It is the real deal.

    Also, if you want a good reference for the P-90 and how it stacks up to other .45 ACPs, read Clay Harvey's book EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT CHOOSING A .45 AUTOMATIC FOR SELF DEFENSE. His findings will amaze you. You can get a copy from The Police Bookshelf.
     
  10. Jesse

    Jesse G&G Newbie Forum Contributor

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  11. Jesse

    Jesse G&G Newbie Forum Contributor

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    The hammer spring was a factory standard weight. I did not reduce the power on this because it doubles as the trigger return spring and I have a rule not to lower the factory weight on any spring because I am not a gunsmith, only an armorer. The polishing of the trigger bar, hammer face, sear, and hammer strut does wonders in cleaning up the action. Polishing the trigger helps just in feel alone for the shooter. Rugers are rough internally, in both P-series pistols and revolvers. The sear and hammer face have molding lines and tool marks, so does the trigger bar. This is what gives the "rough, gritty" feel in the action.

    The only P-Series pistol that I have disassembled which is internally smoother than all the others I have come across is the P-97. I have very little experience with this pistol. Many say it is accurate and reliable. Some say the slide stop can cause a malfunction. I have never seen this so I can't comment either way except to say that they are accurate (because I have fired one) and affordable. I have not tested one for reliability. They are also a LOT easier to work on than the P-90s, but I won't be getting rid of my P-90 to get one anytime soon since I've had the work done already.

    Hope this helps...
     
  12. Jesse

    Jesse G&G Newbie Forum Contributor

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  13. Mark

    Mark G&G Newbie

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    I'm figuring it out.....slowly

    I'm sitting here with my P-90 field stripped in my lap. It looks like the trigger comes out if the slide stop is removed. That would be simple to do, so the trigger polish and trigger end of the trigger bar would be easy.
    But the sear looks like it would be a nightmare, with itty-bitty bits flying everywhere. Thus polishing the hammer and sear may be a problem. Also looks like all this stuff has to be removed to get to the hammer spring.
    Any of this sound correct?
     
  14. Jesse

    Jesse G&G Newbie Forum Contributor

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    Mark, you really need to get a guide for the Ruger disassembly, it really helps. I have been through Glock, Sig, and Beretta armorer's schools and found the Ruger P-series to be different from anything I've ever seen. It is not really harder than the rest, just different. I can tell you that the ejector spring installation is a serious task, at least for me. Make sure you have the right tools, (punches, picks, ziplock bag, ect.), and get the Radocy guide. Anything else I'll try to help, but you do so at your own risk and peril... not to sound gloomy, but I think you catch my drift.
     
  15. alan c.

    alan c. G&G Newbie

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    Ah what the heck shoot a few hundred round through it you might like it as is. My P-89 Just good shooting.
     
  16. Mark

    Mark G&G Newbie

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    Guess I should just hang it up

    Sounds like its over my head. Guess you're right alan, accept the fact that it is what it is. Like everything else, if you wanna play, you gotta pay.

    Ugh! I never thought I'd have to say this, Mr. Ruger: If I want accuracy, I'll go get my Taurus.
     
  17. oneastrix

    oneastrix G&G Newbie

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    I love my P-95.........affordable, accurate, reliable....first duty weapon. It was al I could afford at the time....never let me down....will never get rid of it.
     
  18. alan c.

    alan c. G&G Newbie

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    I don't know
    Mark I shot my P-89 against a Glock and and a Sig. Compliments of my freinds. I shot all three at the range . Hey my Ruger did as well if not better. I did at one time own a Taurus compact. Great pistol but it couldn't keep up with the trigger pull. Oh well to each his own. Good Shooting.
    What I meant was I could pull the trigger quicker than the slide could react. Causing a stove pipe.
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2003
  19. Mark

    Mark G&G Newbie

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    not a compact, alan

    Very UN-COMPACT. I was referring to a Taurus Tracker with a 6.5" barrel I bought last week. I thought my Ruger autos were the sh*t until I got hold of this thing. Its so easy to shoot good, I just shake my head in disbelief.

    Check this out. 5 shots, 15 yards, no rest:
     

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  20. Jesse

    Jesse G&G Newbie Forum Contributor

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    The Rugers are in a class by themselves as far as accuracy, reliability, and ruggedness. They are usually rough out of the box internally and externally. Putting rounds through them will help their break-in for sure.

    What I have shared with you guys is from my experience over the past 3 years of working on them at an armorer's level. The P-series Ruger is either loved or hated. I have found the P-90 with work to be as accurate and smooth shooting as any DA .45ACP for less $ you would spend on a Sig. and about even with what you would pay for a Glock 21 with one hi-cap. To each their own.

    Hey Mark, why not send your P-90 off to a gunsmith if it becomes too frustrating. I know Tom Novak (in the links section) works on them. Just a suggestion.
     
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