Pillar bedding an ATI stock

Discussion in 'Mosin Nagant' started by roggom, Oct 9, 2010.

  1. If you have an ATI stock, you already know what a pain in the rear it was to inlet and fit your action. Also as you tighten the guard screws the barrel moves in any sort of direction.

    Well I planned on bedding one of my mausers and wanted to practice a little. The good news is the pillar material can be found at your local Ace or other hardware store. 3/8 aluminium tubing has an ID of .270 and my guard screws are .258 OD, nice fit.

    You can find many links on how to bed, but since the ATI stock has many voids, I decided to bed the pillars .050 high. This way the action and barrel will not move no matter how tight the guard screws are.

    This is my first time at bedding but the results were satisfactory, maybe not to asthetically pleasing. I was a little liberal with the mud, so there are some rough spots where the mud was not compressed, but I can clean it up a bit.

    I used Devcon 10110 as my epoxy and both Kiwi neutral wax and white lithium as release agents. The Devcon gets very hard and I didnt want to risk locking my action into the stock. You can still see some lithium on the surface of the epoxy. The Devcon runs about $35, but there is enough to do many rifles.

    One last note, do not mud anywhere near the ejector or you will be inletting again.

    Now the barrel is free floating and the action is solidly in place, gotta take it to the range and check the results.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 9, 2010
  2. Iron_Colonel

    Iron_Colonel G&G Enthusiast

    Looks neat. I've been needing to do this to an ATI stock I bought. I've got a Tula ex-sniper I'm going to put in the stock. Did you do the same for the front lug as well? The mag well also?

  3. Tha Dave

    Tha Dave G&G Evangelist

    Can't wait to see the range report. Do you have any pictures or targets from before you did these mods to compaire before and after? This is one thing that I really have ben thinking about doing with my personalized MN
  4. IC, I did a pillar and partial bedding. From my reading there are several types, from full length, full action, pillar only and partial. Since the ATI is mostly holow I went with partial.
    I made my pillars by measuring my barreled action metal to metal and adding .050 to the length of the pillar . Also make sure to score the outside of the pillars to allow the epoxy to bind. I bedded mine similar to the pics in this link http://forums.gunbroker.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=288948
    To answer your question, I did both the front and rear screws the tang and around the chamber.

    If you are looking at the rear guard race of your ATI stock you will see it is kind of designed with play to accomodate minor machine differences. Bedding the back will take any forward to rear play and secure the action to the stock. I also was able to fill in some of the gaps along the action/ stock line. I taped up the mag and trigger holes to prevent epoxy from getting in.

    There are some good vids and articles online that explain the process, just make sure to research and follow all of the instructions

    I will post pics after I clean up and color the epoxy, and a range report to follow.
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2010
  5. Got to the range, very impressed with the improvement. This rifle was shooting 3 MOA and I was able to shoot at least 1.5 MOA with some Yugo M30 light ball. Not bad for a home cut and crown.

    Even if you all decide not to pillar bed, go ahead and remove all contact from the barrel to the stock. My stock was a little warped but by relieving about .070 of clearance on each side of the stock the barrel no longer makes contact even with a hot barrel.

    The only lesson learned was I did not use enough epoxy to make a very neat (aesthetic) bedding, although it is only needed fore and aft of the mag well.The action now sits securely in the stock and there is no play at the tang or recoil lug. BTW Richard Franklin has a great video on how to bed a rifle (stress free pillar bedding).

    Does anyone have a pic of the rear guard hole (top view). I forgot to take a before pic.

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    Last edited: Oct 13, 2010
  6. Tried out my psuedo gong project, 200Y was great rather nice grouping once I set the windage. I made the gongs for lead, but I had to try out my hunting load 125gr Interlock over 52gr IMR 4895 CCI #200 LRP 2.815 oal.

    They punched right through the 1/4 inch steel gong and almost through the 1/2. I switched over to cast but had to bring the gong back to 100Y as that is my max with trailboss. Was a fun day.

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  7. gandog56

    gandog56 G&G Evangelist

    I'll still stick to my wood.
  8. Yeah GD, I know what you mean, in hindsight I would have gotten a Boyds but couldnt let the ATI go to waste.