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I have a Kimber custom II and i was wondering if anyone else has had any problems with it ejecting the round once in a while it will "stove pipe" but i think its bc i bought a floor model and the exposed part of the barrel where the slide is, is pitted from being handled by the public also i was thinking about buying a new barrel for it any suggestions thanks in advance
 

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I had a lot of trouble with the factory mag in my CDP II - I bought a couple Wilson Combat mags and haven't had any trouble.
 

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500 rounds is considered 'broken in' for the Kimber 45's. I have a TLE/RL that took that many to break in with a lot of cleaning, especially on the feed ramp. I am 300 rounds into a royal II, and it is having a few fail to feeds itself. I almost think sanding the feed ramp would be helpful. I have some wilson combat mags also and those are nice. I think the Kimbers are just very tight and need the break in period to start 'shaping' them. my tle/rl is very smooth now and the action is like a swiss watch.
 

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I would also suggest doing the full 500 round break-in and then see how it shoots. A new barrel might resolve the issue if it continues. But the pitting should not make an contact that would restrict movement.

Not to add any insult, but with tightly made 1911's ones grip and wrist can make a difference, and cause some failures. I would suggest that you focus on how you hold the pistol and how firm your grip is. The tighter guns are less forgiving.

Good luck with the resolution. I hope you will post it for us.
 

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The mag that came with my Kimber isn't doing too bad. It is interesting though that there are so many problems. I can't say that I haven't had any problems, because there were a few where the round gets half way chambered then jams. But I would like to try out some different mags. I have heard that the Kimber Tac Mags are a good way to go, or Wilson Combat. I'm about 300 rounds in to the break in period. Its pretty accurate. But I think the break in period will yield better results and tighten up the group a little bit.

I must have messed the whole slide being pitted thing. Do you have pics of this? Was this gun new or used when you bought it? How old is it? It seems surprising that it should have pitting where you described there being pitting. Lets see a pic of this.
 

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I am 150 rounds into my TLE Custom II, and at 20ft it shoots 4 inches high and 3 inches left...will this go away or do I need to get it checked out? Also the groups are terrible, and I know it's not me because I shot this same model at a range (of course this one was broken in) and had great groups at much longer distances. Whats going on??
 

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I have a Kimber custom II and i was wondering if anyone else has had any problems with it ejecting the round once in a while it will "stove pipe" but i think its bc i bought a floor model and the exposed part of the barrel where the slide is, is pitted from being handled by the public also i was thinking about buying a new barrel for it any suggestions thanks in advance
Are you shooting factory loads or reloads? I had the same problem for a while when shooting lightly loaded reloads. Once i got the loads up close to 5 grains the stovepipe went away. I had been shooting 4.5gr to 4.7gr.
 

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Malfunctions in a semi-auto pistol are usually caused by the magazines, next ammo. Iron Col. describes a failure to chamber/feed. The "rim" of the case slides in behind the "claw". If it doesn't slip in easily but tight enough to hold it then my guess would be the extractor. Make sure it is clean and there are no burrs on the bottom. If you know how to take it out, scrub the channel and put it back together and try it. Mexbarbarian describes a failure to eject. My guess is bad ammo or the recoil spring weight. If these are new guns then they need break-in. If they have several hundred round through them, then send it to Kimber with the ammo you are shooting. I've sent my Match Target to them on Monday and had it back Friday. And for what it's worth, I buy the cheapest magazines from CDNN, Cheaper than Dirt... the $5 each....instead of the Wilson, Cylinder and Slide, Springfield etc...$30 ea. mags and they work just fine without any malfunctions attributed to the mags. Malfunctions with my gun tend to be dirt related or ammo. I shoot my reloads and only ran 500 rnds of Winchester ball through it to beak it in. I shoot 200gr lead over Clays, almost as good as Beye, but a whole lot cleaner. You should have a lifetime warranty on those guns. Kimber to me have always been good people.
 

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Make sure for the first few hundred rounds, that you use one of the top end brands of ammunition.

Did you clean it before first use and also properly lube where it needs to be? Most if not all manufacturers do not know how long a gun will be in it's box or on the shelf before it sells so they put a rust inhibitor/lubricant on it and it's more of a rust inhibitor then a lubricant and a gun should be cleaned and lubricated BEFORE it's FIRST use...
 

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extraction problems such as "stove pipes" are caused by insufficent recoil energy to properly cycle the slide. these type of malfunctions are not magazine related.

first what loads were you using? if common US made ball ammo go to next step.

are the cases that eject flying a distance or dropping at or near your feet?

here are some things that can cause this problem.

recoil spring not suited for the ammo power level. try different ammo first.

chamber finish or dirt delaying slide cycle. (too much pressure drop before cycling)

how the weapon is held can cause malfunctions on tight guns till a good break in has occured.

some people cringe when i say this, but, when doing a break in on a tight gun sometimes I would take a can of gun scrubber and clean all the lube from the barrel and slide rails then with no lube fire 10-20 rounds. malfunctions probably will occur on this run. clean again with gun scrubber and lube well with a good lubricant like CPC Breakfree. problem is some lubes out there now work so good that parts dont wear into each other and if using a superior lube it can be very difficult to get them to break in. if this does not correct the issue after doing this once or twice i would be looking at some of the other alternatives listed above. this basically speeds up the break in allowing parts to wear into each other.

I know, some people are going to cringe on this, but it works.
 
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