Question about the gas cylinder lock

Discussion in 'The Powder Keg' started by pointman, Mar 26, 2002.

  1. I just cleaned my Danish M1 of cosmoline and was putting it back together. My question is exactly how tight does the gas cylinder lock have to be on the barrel threads? I tightened it by hand but it stops at 3 o'clock and not at 6. I don't want to force it. Please help. Thanks
     
  2. lefty o

    lefty o G&G Evangelist

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    just back it off till you can put the plug in and that should work
     

  3. Doc Holiday

    Doc Holiday G&G Newbie

    What is important is the location of the gas cylinder hole and the barrel gas port. Once those two are lined up it does not matter where the lock turns to. The terms 6 O'clock or 8 O'clock were used simply as general terms and have little meaning when properly fitting a gas cylinder.
     
  4. Stock Doc

    Stock Doc Super Moderator

    The hole in the barel is so small and the cut for the gas cylinder is larger for a bit of play. Take a look and you will see there is plenty of room for positioning. Normally I try for 10 turns give or take one. Don't tighten the front guard so it stops rattling or you're shot group will float all over as the barrel heats up and swells the guard inturn will push on the barrel. I read all of this in a article on Setting up you're garand for match and experienced it for myself. The same goes for the rear as it touches the receiver. Rick B
     
  5. leemozoid

    leemozoid G&G Newbie

    It's always good to have several locks around for just this circumstance. The lock should be snug anywhere from 5 to 7 o'clock. If you don't have several to try, you can gently rub the lock on some emery cloth on a flat surface to try to move the bearing surface's engagement towards the desireable area. You're too far away for backing it off to be effective. I've snugged them up from the 4 o'clock area before with a crescent wrench. Just be sure your front handguard still has a little play. Snug cold makes for shotgun patterns when warm! You can usually find these at gunshows for $1 or $2 each and it's worth a few $ invested to have several from which to choose.
     
  6. Rod

    Rod G&G Newbie

    If you find a loose handguard annoying, I have had success by removing the cylinder assembly, and rolling a rubber o-ring down the barrel to the front of the hand guard, then installing the cylinder assembly down to the o-ring. Depending on how much play you have will determine what size ring you'll need. A smaller diameter ring will stretch over the barrel and become thinner, a larger diameter will not stretch as much and will therefore take up more space. There are also different thickness in o-rings which you can use to take up the space. Don't use an o-ring that ends up being compressed too much when the cylinder is installed, else it will not have much cushion to give when the barrel heats up. But with the right size o-ring, the handguard will be held in place without the loose rattle, and yet as the barrel heats up the o-ring will compress without affecting accuracy.