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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm gonna be starting up Big-Bore competitions this summer and was wondern what I should do to get my M1 in the same league as the AR-15's that will be used or should I just leave it alone :34:
 

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as good as the garand can be, it will not be as accurate as a good AR. i'd recomend you get a book, precision shooting the M1 by Roy Baumgardener( i thinks thats how you spell his name). for 14 or 15 bucks, it has quite a few tricks and tips for improving the M1.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
sweet thanks. sence also I'm a lefty shooter should I custom build the action (while keepin the original) so that I could better shoot the rifle with out having to reach accross to operate the bolt? or what I'm still kinda new with the Garand
 

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Why don't you just shoot a Veteran league with the Garand and buy an AR15 for a "modern" competition???
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I dont exactly have the finances to purchase an AR-15. In reality I shouldnt of purchased the M1 considerin that I'm still in college but yeah the team that I'm shootin with is just a genaric Big-bore team and I'm almost confident there will be a few AR15's
 

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I shot the Garand match once with a rifle in new condition at 200 yard's I hit 7, 10 rings with 4 bulls then the rifle placed a 9, a 6, and then two targets over. It went south and I never figured it out. May have been bad ammo or hand guard got caught and bowed the barrel???

The Garand is such a ballet of movements but when something trips a bit the shots and more can go arie. That was the first time I had this problem by the way and normally can keep a 2" group up to 300 yrds if I brace in the prone. !!!! I took a Pheasants lower neck out at 175 yrds and the folks I was with argued the distance until we walked it off. I got allot of respect after that.

The AR is great up in the 300yrd range then without many dollars it isn't any better but the Garand can reach out there easily at 600 yrds or more if real steady.

I feel the best bang for the buck is the M14 semi's as they are fun as heck to shoot and are right between the two rifles. I always enjoy it and cheap to shoot still. Rick B
 

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yep, pretty much leave it as is. i still recommend the book though(its about $15), as it will give you some basic ideas of free things you can do to let your M1 shoot its best in its current condition. even small things like the stacking swivel can affect the M1's accuracy. there is alot of parts hanging off the barrel of an M1, and part of the key to good accuracy is to get those parts to move to the same place every time a shot is fired, or not move at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
sweet ok lefty I think I will go with your advice and pick up the book and not do any serious mods to it.
 

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I copied this for you from another site. Also I shipped your enblocs the other day, should have them shortly:
So that CMP Garand is not so accurate?
Or it has a different zero hot than it does cold?

The bore looks OK but the !!!! thing just will not shoot well?

99% of the time it is because of the stock or handguards. The stock on many CMP rifles are the cause of their problems. The new Boyds stock you just bought can be even worse.

The first thing you look for is lock up. Is the action tight in the stock? Does it take some effort to close the trigger guard?

If the answer to these questions are yes them you are extremly lucky and the rest of your problems can be eaisly fixed.

The first thing you need to do is remove the lower handguard and put the rifle back in the stock and lock in the trigger group. Look down inside at how you barrel fits inside the stock.

The barrel must NOT be touching the stock. On most CMP guns you will need to remove some wood somewhere. The barrel should float from the reciever to the lower band. Wood touching the barrel in this area will cause flyers and a different zero as the rifle warms up.

While you are at it make sure the OP rod is not touching the stock anywhere. Remove wood if needed.

Now remove the rifle from the stock and put your lower handguard back on. The handguard must not be making contact with the reciever enough that it is a really tight fit between the reciever and lower band. There has to be a slight gap between the reciever and handguard. If the handguard is too long and it puts any pressure on the reciever it will cause a huge difference in zero from cold to hot.

The handguard should also float on the barrel. You should be able to run a piece of thin paper between it and the barrel. Most of the time it is not only touching the barrel but putting a lot of pressure on the barrel.

This also causes many zero and accuracy problems. Remove wood untill only the retaining clip touches the barrel.

Now comes the upper handguard. The most common problem that you find is the gas clyinder is tight against the upper handguard. This is a MAJOR screw up that can cause as much as a foot difference in your zero at only 100 yards from a cold rifle to a hot one. Combine this problem with a too tight lower handguard and your 100 yard zero can move as much as 15 inches from your first cold shot to your 20th round. This makes for poor shooting and any sort of long range accuracy impossible.

There must be just a bit of clearance between the upper handguard and gas cylinder. The handguard MUST have some slack in it. Some people can't stand the thought of this but you must learn to accept it if you wish to keep the rifle JCG match legal. You can do a NM mod to fix this but it is not too good for a field rifle.

After you get the wood correct expect to find that you now have a huge difference in your zero. You would not believe just how flexable the Garand barrel is. Stock and handguard problems can bend the barrel causing problems with your zero.

Do all of this right and make sure the OP rod is not touching anything it is not supposed to and your Garand will become a much better shooter.
 

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I copied that "shamelessly":burnout:
What is the other website so I can have a look there???
(never can have to much info on this!!!)

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
sweetness again thanks orlando and also yeah I havent been able to fire my rifle yet so I now know what to look for when I get the chance. Again, thank you guys for helpen me figure out what to do with my M1 come time for competition
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
yeah I know that, I've been doin my homework on the thing. I'm currently savin up to purchase a crate of M2 Ball ammo. now tryin to figure out where to store it that's gonna be difficult. and what commercial ammo does the M1 play well with? I am pretty much gonna use my M1 for everything from huntin to competitive shootin. general shootin I will be usin the M2 Ball but in MN it is illegal to use FMJ I gotta use soft points or JHP
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I was talkin to one of the guys at the range that used to shoot the Garand before the start of vietnam. he says that 165 grain Federal Power Shock works well is there anyone who could confirm this? I just wana make shure that it works without havin to worry about my rifle blowin up in my face if you know what I meen
 
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