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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I was thinking about re-bluing my Turk Mauser for the heck of it. Give me some experience with some bluing. I have a Birchwood Casey kit that I already did a pistol with that was in sad shape. It was my first one, and it didn't look as nice as the pic on the box... Just wondering if there are any good tricks of the trade or something that a newbie might be interested in. How is a good way to get a nice deep and shiny look on it.

http://www.gunandgame.com/forums/mausers/48643-turkish-mauser-m38.html

Theres a link to my post after I first bought it with pics. The original bluing on it is worn. Looks like its been handled a lot. Just looking to spruce it up a bit I think.
 

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After Cleaning with steel wool, Degrease with acetone a couple of times outdoors...let dry...Back inside, use a propane torch or heat gun and WARM the barrel a bit...Not hot just warm...you may have to play with the temp. Apply blueing fast to warm metal...see if that helps , If not, I would get some Oxpho Blue from Brownells and try that as it is better than Birchwood Casey stuff....
Rich
 

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+1 on the oxphoblue
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Another thing I was contemplating, was to get a really shiny look, would after stripping it all and stuff, taking it to a buffer to get a real nice shine on the naked metal, then applying the bluing, make the bluing job shinier? My Parker Hale rifle has a beautiful bluing job done to it, and I really want this Mauser to look like that? What do you think?
 

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most likely, if you take it to a buffer, you'll do more harm than good. machine polishing guns is an aquired skill. if your serious, get a bunch of sand cloth, and start hand polishing. then either pay for it to be hot dipped, or rust blued. both will cost more than a turk mauser is worth.
 

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I don't know what the gunsmith's charge where you are Iron C. but if you do all the polishing and prep and all i have to do is dip it in the bluing tank, the charge is much less than if i had to do all the work, in fact i only charge $40 to do a dip only job and that is a lot less than the cost of the mauser. Not opinion, fact.
steve
 

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lefty O +1 If I might make a suggestion what about a matt-black finish. Take it and have it bead blasted.
 

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If you do it yourself you can slap some blue on it after wiping it down. You can do what Mooseman said. You can do as I said on your other thread.

OR you can send it out to have a pro do it. You can send it complete somewhere and let them do it. This costs the most.
Take it apart and send only what you want blued and the refinisher will bead blast polish it and reblue it. (thats what I would do).
Or take it apart do your own bead blasting and polishing and let the refinisher do just the blueing.
That pretty much sums up your choices.
 
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