Refinishing a Rifle Barrel (Mosin Nagant 91/30)

Discussion in 'Mosin Nagant' started by, Sep 28, 2010.

  1. G&G Newbie

    I hate to "beat a dead horse" but I am very new to "gunsmithing" or anything to do with guns at all other than shooting them. I have a mosin nagant 91/30 that I am trying to "refinish" the barrel and reciever on, and am completely lost.

    I have heard of several ways of refinishing but cannot seem to find the "right one" I have heard of parkerizing, bluing (hot and cold), duracoating, painting, and even powder coating...

    What I need to know is which of these will provide a durable, descent finish with minimal upkeep and minimal resources to complete.

    I am limited to the equipment needed to complete this project, as I live in an apartment.

    P.S. To those who adventure to offer advice on this topic, please if at all possible break down the procedure so that a "rifle refinisher for dummies" can understand. :D Thank you so much for your time and knowledge
  2. Duracoating will probably give you the minimal upkeep thing. But you will need some sort of air compressor and a paint sprayer attachment for it.

  3. Billyz

    Billyz G&G Newbie

    You can get rattle cans of duracoat so you do not need a compressor or sprayer. But you would definitely need to find someplace outdoors to do the spraying.
  4. rando

    rando G&G Evangelist Forum Contributor

    I use Brownell,s Gun Kote or Baking Lacquer in 6 ounce spray cans. I can do two complete actions and you let it dry and bake the barreled action at 300 degrees for an hour in my oven. Let it cool for several hours before touching and overnite before reinstalling in stock. I have did many mauser sporter actions and good results.
  5. Link23

    Link23 G&G Newbie

    wouldnt baking it hurt the temper some?....
  6. jmeck

    jmeck Scope mount mfgr. Forum Contributor

  7. Iron_Colonel

    Iron_Colonel G&G Enthusiast

    Well, you will only get out of it what you put in to it. First, we should consider what the rifle is. If it's a Finn 91/30, definitely DO NOT TOUCH IT! as if you parkerize or duracoat a rifle like this, it will lose it's collectability.

    If it's a standard 91/30 refurb, then by all means, have at it. You might consider not refinishing an ex-dragoon either. But, after all it is your rifle, and you do to it as you wish. So what is the year and arsenal for the rifle?

    As far as procedures, if you're on a budget, the Oxpho blue is good, and Birchwood Casey's cold blue is decent as well. Since you're in an apartment, then that's probably your best bet. You'll want to get some kind of rust and blue remover. BWC sells a kit for this, that's not too expensive. Follow the directions for removal of rust and blue finish. Then you should be at bare metal. Preparation of the metal is what will affect the final result of your bluing. I would use sandpaper, and start at like a 400 or something and move to a 600 then use a buffing wheel to polish the receiver shiny. If you dont' have that option, then you will most likely have a dull bluing result, that will probably be somewhat close to how it looked before. If you don't have a polishing or buffing wheel, you could try some hand polishing with a chrome polish, or Flitz I have heard is absolutely excellent. Might take some hard work, but the better your metal looks, the better your finish will be.

    If you use Oxpho or BWC's bluing, preparation of the metal is the most important step before applying. I would buy some odorless mineral spirits (they are less odorous than the odorous kind lol but still have a little smell so if you use mineral spirits, do it in a room with a window or outside would be best) to wipe down the metal first. Then use some denatured alcohol or something like that to wipe down AFTER the mineral spirits wipe down. YOU DO NOT WANT ANY OIL OR RESIDUE OF ANYTHING ON THE METAL BEFORE BLUING APPLICATION.

    Hot metal will take the blue a little better, so you could pop the rifle in your oven on the lowest setting so it won't be too hot to handle without a bunch of hot pads or something like that. Then use the applicators or cotton swabs (cotton swabs with Oxpho if you don't have any spare applicators) to apply whatever bluing you choose. You'll have to be fast so the bluing doesn't sit on the metal too long without being neutralized. So you might tape off the receiver and do the barrel first. After the first coat, let it sit however long you decide, then take a wet rag and squeeze water over the barrel where you just applied the bluing. This will neutralize the bluing. Lightly dab dry, and reapply if necessary, buffing between coats if you choose. Apply as many coats as you want. When you're done applying, watering drying however many times you want, you'll want to get it all dried off, then apply a nice liberal coat of gun oil to it and let it sit overnight to "cure" Then wipe off and it should be good to go. Shoot me a PM if you have any more questions or anything like that :)
  8. you can fit a 91/30 barreled action in your oven? they don't come close in mine! i have used plenty of gunkote on smaller projects though and it is great stuff! it's awesome in silver for air-cooled motorcycle heads and cylinders as well!
  9. Sober

    Sober G&G Newbie

    I was thinking the same thing. That must be one big a$$ oven lol.