Ridi'n mower expert

Discussion in 'The Powder Keg' started by jerry, Aug 23, 2010.

  1. jerry

    jerry Since 03-15- 2002 Forum Contributor

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    Need a bit of help. I need to pul the PTO off of my dad's '98 Snapper LT160H42DBV riding mower.

    I got up under there with a socket and started turning the bolt. It turns the engine. I assume I need to lock up the flywheel somehow? I don't want to break anything further.

    Also, anyone have a line of a good parts source with real people to help. I need the plug for the PTO, it shorted and burned up. I can find a PTO, but the plug is a bear.

    Thanks!
     
  2. BigCaneSwift

    BigCaneSwift G&G Evangelist Forum Contributor

    Use an air impact wrench it will zip the nut right off .
     

  3. FN FAL

    FN FAL NOT a new member Forum Contributor

    I just pulled the PTO apart on a tractor I picked up today to replace the bearings in it. I didn't want to get out the air hose and impact gun to get the center bolt out so I had to clamp the flywheel and used a long handled 1/2 drive ratchet to remove the bolt. It also required a puller to get the outer clutch plate off the shaft. In this case the shaft is mounted to the flywheel which is bolted to the engine. This tractor is a Simplicity Legacy with the 24.5hp diesel in it. Is your tractors engine horizontal or vertical shaft?

    Did your PTO clutch's windings burn up or just the plug? If its just the plug I would just get some insulated crimp on plug together lugs and forgo the factory type plug.

    tim
     
  4. jerry

    jerry Since 03-15- 2002 Forum Contributor

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    Iv'e got a compressor but no air tools. It's a verticle shaft. I know for sure the plug is toast. I thought about the lugs as an option, thought I'd try to find the plug first. I used to work on multi miilion dollar jets & this mower is kicki'n my butt, LOL
     
  5. grizcty

    grizcty God, Guns, Glory Forum Contributor

    Can you manually disengage the PTO?
     
  6. jerry

    jerry Since 03-15- 2002 Forum Contributor

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    It is currenty disengaged, electric. Other than the jack side of the plug being fried, it's probably ok mechanically. I'm going to get it to the house so I can properly work on it. Think I'll pull the engine cover and have my buddy hold the fly wheel, then give the bolt a good sharp rap.
     
  7. jerry

    jerry Since 03-15- 2002 Forum Contributor

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    update:
    I took the top cover off and put a socket on the top fly wheel nut and was able to get the bottom bolt off the clutch. The pulley wiggled a bit so I kept at it. Finally the clutch assembly split in 1/2, leaving the remainder of the clutch. Tug and pull some more, no good.
    I stated the engine and another section spun itself off leaving the windings section. Tug and pull, no good. started again and that section came off.

    Now I'm left with the inner portion of the bearing stuck on the shaft. I hope it's just stuck/siezed and not pressed on. If it's pressed on, I may get it off, but means I will have to press the new clutch on the shaft. That would most likely mean pulling the engine.
     
  8. FN FAL

    FN FAL NOT a new member Forum Contributor

    More that likely the inner bearing race is just seized on the shaft and not pressed on. They are a tight fit and when reinstalling the one on the Simplicity I used a block of wood across the pulley and a hammer to tap it back on the shaft. A little grease on the mating parts helped too.

    If you have a small propane or mapp gas torch you can heat that bearing race up expanding it and hopefully it will come off. Putting some penetrating oil on it like PB Blaster, etc might help as well.

    As for the clutch on the Simplicity the inner bearing was toast and when I put it in the press the only thing you could press against was the inner race. Well it didn't take much push to blow the bearing apart it was in such bad shape. I ended up cutting a piece of 2" round stock about 1/2" thick and welding it into the outer bearing shell and while it was still hot from welding it pressed out with ease. I couldn't get a 62mm x 35mm x 28mm bearing anywhere in the states and the Simplicity dealers don't source the bearing for the clutch, its all or nothing. The price of a new PTO clutch from a Simplicity dealer is pushing 500 bucks, might be more than that with tax. The two bearings and two belts from McMaster-Carr were about 55 bucks with tax and shipping. From the time I opened the box from McMaster it was about an hour and I was firing the tractor up. Still got something amiss in the mower deck as it really dogs the engine down. Luckily the mower this will replace has the same 60" deck and I totally rebuilt it just over a year ago.

    tim
     
  9. jerry

    jerry Since 03-15- 2002 Forum Contributor

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    Thanks! I do have a propane torch and PB in the garage. I'm sure it's just stuck. I got lucky, the clutch for the snapper is a little over $100 my dad is buying it as it's his mower, but I still don't want to see him get soaked badly. When I get it off I'll most likely hit it with a little emery cloth and a bit of lube as you suggest.

    Tim, if you really get bored, you can swing over by Tremont/Pekin area and show me how that's done, LOL.
     
  10. If you can reach the bad bearing with a Dremel tool with a cutting disc you'll save some time removeing. Thats how I remove them from the Mandrels on the deck.
     
  11. PAPA G

    PAPA G G&G Evangelist Forum Contributor

    now if Boeing/Lockheed/ came out with a riding mower you'd be a natural mechanic:)
     
  12. jerry

    jerry Since 03-15- 2002 Forum Contributor

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    I thought about the dremil, a little hard to get to but mabe not imposible.

    You betcha PAPAG, only difference is I never wanted for tools on aircraft & they have good tech data.
     
  13. jerry

    jerry Since 03-15- 2002 Forum Contributor

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    A few weeks ago, got the danged thing on, wired up, belt back on, new PTO sw, thing runs like a well oiled Singer sewing machine.

    Thanks guys! (includes you AH, we know your watching)