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Discussion Starter #1
I recently acquired this gun in a 32 H&R Mag. I got a really good deal on it because when the trade went on I noticed, and the seller knew, that the cylinder would stick occasionally while loading the firearm. My thoughts were, something of a foreign particle was in the gears and would get in a bad spot every once in a while and cause it to freeze. So I brought it home opened it up and the first thing I noticed was, whoever tightened the grips on it, tightened them on too much and caused the rivet to pull in toward the center of the gun, pulling splinters of wood in with it. I figured this was what was causing the problem. I went ahead and took out the cylinder and pin and blew everything out, repaired the grip as best I could, and put it back together. It’s still doing it! Does anyone else have any experience with this or suggestions for me to remedy this situation?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
New find! If I pull the hammer back just a smidge (when the gate is open and I’m reloading), it doesn’t get stuck???
 

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animalspooker: Sir; no. But. Given your more recent findings.
id start checking for alignmen. Grip without grips attached.
Hammer alignment
Hammer pin bent
Crane alignment
cylinder alignment

do follow up as you can 🤓
 

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I bought my wife a Ruger Wrangler about a year ago. The cylinder would barely rotate. After comparing it to my single six I discovered that the loading gate hadn't been machined properly and was dragging on the cylinder when it was opened or closed. I did a file job myself and polished several spots on the revolver. I would send it into Ruger for repair if I were you. I didn't because of all the Covid 19 stuff and delays in repairs. Give them a call and the should make it right.
 

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I thought about sending it in, but the person I bought it from got it to use in SASS competition and the gun has had trigger work done on it. Wasn't sure if they'd touch it since it's been 'altered?'
 

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I thought about sending it in, but the person I bought it from got it to use in SASS competition and the gun has had trigger work done on it. Wasn't sure if they'd touch it since it's been 'altered?'
Might be worth a call. They might charge you for the repairs. One of the reasons I repaired the Wrangler myself was that it was a 200 dollar gun, not a 700 dollar single six. When I sent my GP 100 in for a minor issue, they polished and cleaned all the lead out of the cylinders, cleaned the bore, re crowned the barrel and polished the outside of the entire revolver. It looked like brand new. And I had installed a reduced hammer spring too. Didn't charge me a dime. Good luck.
 

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I thought about sending it in, but the person I bought it from got it to use in SASS competition and the gun has had trigger work done on it. Wasn't sure if they'd touch it since it's been 'altered?'
Ruger might replace any of those parts that were tweaked when it got the trigger job. But it might be worth contacting them about the problem and sending it to them since I'm sure you want the firearm to function dependably.
 
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