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I have a three-year-old 357 Rossi mare's leg and I just took it out and it won't fire I have no idea why and don't know where to begin figuring it out. It's had less than a 100 rounds through it and the last time I took it out is shot fine. Any ideas?
 

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We know it doesn't work. What does it do? Does it not cycle? Is the trigger unresponsive? Is the hammer not going back/forward/moving fast enough? Is it doing everything it should, but the ammo isn't going off? Does it CA-THUNK when it should CA-CHIK? Is the safety on?

Could just need a cleaning, could need a basic part, and might need a major overhaul.
 

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I don't mean to insult or be captain obvious but you didn't happen to lube it with WD-40 before putting it away did you? And if so how long has it sat since our last time?
 

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I don't mean to insult or be captain obvious but you didn't happen to lube it with WD-40 before putting it away did you? And if so how long has it sat since our last time?
Oooh, good one. You don't know how many guns come through here with scars from WD 40; lots of rust, gunk, and destroyed wood finish. At this point, I don't think I even own WD-40. I've replaced it with Deep Creep/Sea Foam.
 

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wd-40 is good at starting fires.

did you take it apart and clean it?
the first and last step is taking the stock off and disengaging the hammer spring.

anyway these things are super simple.
the hammer hits a pin the pin hits the primer.
they don't do that if the bolt isn't locked up.
to lock the bolt up the extractor has to click over the rim and slide into the notch at the top of the barrel.
that also pushes the ejector back into the bolt face as the rim of the case slides into position against the barrel, the firing pin goes through the ejector.

anyway all that just to say if the bolt ain't closed the gun won't set off the primer.
 

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I do not mean to sound rude or anything like that but your Rossi 92 has that little safety on top at the rear of the gun. When new it had red and green positions for fire and safe. If the hammer is all the way forward you cannot move the safety to either position, it is stuck where it is at. If you put it on half cock then it should move freely. If it does not, that may be your problem. Check and make sure it works both ways.

Many people take them off and plug that area. So, I am wondering if maybe that little safety is hung up some way?

Le t us know.
 

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I have and will use WD-40 on my guns during the cleaning process but I always apply regular oil at the end (I use regular synthetic motor oil not anything supposedly meant for guns). On my old forums we had a crusty old grump that called WD-40 'rust in a can'.
I do the same. I also use it on the range to keep my ARs lubed and running. The apply a gun oil or Ballistol as a final wipe down and barrel coat.
 

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you guys know wd-40 freezes at 20 below, in the can that's in your pocket... LOL
jus sayin.

i'll sometimes use it to flush gunk out of a gun, then follow it up quickly with a spray of brake cleaner to get the wd out.
 

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you guys know wd-40 freezes at 20 below, in the can that's in your pocket... LOL
jus sayin.

i'll sometimes use it to flush gunk out of a gun, then follow it up quickly with a spray of brake cleaner to get the wd out.
I do not believe that. I think that is an old wives tale. Do you have any authority for that? Military guys depending on it for cold weather.
 

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WD 40 has properties that many lubes or spray products do not, making it a preferred product for actual survival scenarios. Most gun oils do not survive in extreme cold. One survivalist group says this.


''''As experts in survival prepping, we know that WD40 is important for many purposes. WD40 can be used to lubricate firearms, prevent rusting, protect tools, and put a stop to loud and squeaky sounds. It is essential for hinges on doors to be silent, so your location is never apparent.
In addition, WD40 can help repel bugs, especially mosquitoes, over standing water, making it difficult for spiders to build webs. It can also be used as a water displacement tool, which can help winterize your shoes. Does WD40 freeze? WD40 is essential for survival, so it is necessary to know that it could freeze when exposed to extreme cold.

Yes, WD40 does freeze. Its freezing point is -81.4 degrees Fahrenheit. T
o prevent freezing, you should store it between this temperature and no warmer than 120 degrees Fahrenheit. WD40 comprises different kinds of hydrocarbons with all different freezing points.
However, the freezing point at which the whole substance will freeze is extremely cold. While It is unlikely that you will have to endure freezing conditions of -81.4 degrees, it is helpful to know the facts about WD40 and what it can withstand in a survival situation if SHTF. ''''

In the survival world, WD 40 is critical to the list of essential products, it replaces many other products. Blog - WD-40 Survival Uses Guide (thereadystore.com)

""""It’s often said that the only two survival tools you need are duct tape and WD-40. As the experts say, “If it moves and shouldn’t, use Duct Tape, if it doesn’t move and should, use WD-40.” Known as a multitool product for survival, WD-40 is useful in everyday situations, as well as emergencies. """""

Just saying, not the best for some gun uses, but works for dozens of other ones when you would never use brake cleaner or Rem Oil or even Hoppes. Just saying......Not my first choice but we keep it around because it works in the brutal cold.
 

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the only 'authority' i got on the matter is dealing with frozen wd-40 cans out in the field, and trying to beat the frozen parts apart.
i only done it for 15 years so maybe more research is needed, but it won't be by this guy.
 

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I think the freezing part is from area temps. Once in awhile it'll get down to -20F to -25F but it's rare.
Anyways I use Ballistol which has an operating range in that area.
And I don't use the aerosol cans out in the field. 4oz cans, cloth wipes and 1oz cleaning kit bottles I fill from 16oz cans.
 
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