Rub a dub, dub

Discussion in 'The Powder Keg' started by Armorer, Aug 26, 2002.

  1. Armorer

    Armorer Guest

    Three lake City brass in a tub!

    Hey all you Military brass guys. Here is what I just tried.

    I have 1000s of shells to clean. I don't like media. Remember even your brass needs to be tactical :) To shiney is not good.

    I bought this Iosso Case cleaner gizmo. Doe's a so-so job. At $7 a quart you can do about 300-500 shells.

    When Kate and I went to the range last weekend (opened and closed it :) I talked to a guy who was firng a shot cleaning his rifle over and over again. Using this copper stripper by Shooter's Choice. He kept getting massive copper out of his barrel.

    Well I thought My M1 has a few 100 shots thru it, maybe It needs to be stripped. So I got some this weekend.

    Came home, used it, notta! The bore in my Garand was clean. Waste of $8. Well not really I will use it on my new rifle when i break it in.

    So today I started cleaning a few shells with it (see where this is going). It did a right nice job. Better than the Iosso case cleaner (dont buy it folks)

    Being that the Shooters choice smells real bad. I read the label. 5% ammonia and petroleum distillates and water.

    I go to my household cleaning stuff. What do I find Top shelf Ammoina with lemon. A gallon for $1.79
    Guess whats in it :)

    Don't smell no better :-(

    So while some of you are beating the stuck media out of your shells, I'll be dippin', rinsin' and setting them up to dry :)

    For any of you new guys, Always deprime, and size your brass before you clean them. That way if you find bad ones, they are a few less to clean. You also need to get the sizing lube off.
  2. Make sure all the ammonia is rinsed off and that the cases are thoroughly dried. I wouldn't recommend using it on cases that haven't been decapped or soaking for an excessive amount of time as ammonia + copper metal will eventially yield a green, waxy copper corrosion product that is not easy to remove w/o lots of elbow grease. Letting the cases air out after treatment may be important: all metals have some porosity and small molecules like ammonia penetrate. I wouldn't be surprised if over treatment might not weaken cases.

  3. Armorer

    Armorer Guest

    I roll them in solution, then pull them out and rinse. Next wipe the outside with a cloth, and blow compressed air through the inside from the primer hole out the neck.

    I did leave 20 in the solution for 3 hours (walked off and forgot them). They are blackened. Those will never be used.

    I've had several batches sitting in casr racks for a few weeks now, just to see if they change color.
    All look good. They will become bullets this week :)

    Oh Yeah, all you commercial bullet users. When I moved up from 147FMJ to 175HPBT. My groups dropped 2-3 inches at 100 yards. My arm also felt the difference :)
  4. You are probably getting all the ammonia out (or off). The black stuff is probably copper oxide, though I'm surprised it wasn't a dark green waxy feeling material. It would be a good idea to track case life to see if there are any adverse consequences. I never have loaded stuff blazing hot and have gotten fairly long lives (~25 for .270 win & .308 win and ~ 30 for .38 spl and .357 mag) before case necks start to show cracks. Mostly with handgun I just wipe them clean, occasionally water/detergent wash & air dry.
  5. I like Armorer's comment on brass being tactical, tool

    I rarely, if ever, try to achieve a shiny brass (if they come out that way, albeit.

    I just try to clean them so the lube and any other susbstance is off and if the brass is dull, I really don't care.

    Although I have had some argue that shiny brass feeds and cycles better but I think it's a bunch of hogwash.

    I'm not a comp shooter anyway.