Ruger #1A

Try some Barnes CR-10 copper remover between every five shots.

Re: 1A

Sorry. Jumped the "gun" so to speak. What is your rifle doing?? Is it hot when not grouping??
From my little experience with Rugers, many won't group due to heat causing vertical strings, or, many aren't broke in yet and get copper fouled which causes a shotgun effect.
Best thing is to take some copper remover and clean every five rounds until you have 200 fired through it. It should be broken in as far as fouling goes.
Heat wise, the #1's build up heat under the forearm. Floating the barrel or creating a gap by bedding the forearm is the best way to get rid of this problem.

Try a Hicks accurizer Brownells has them #419-100-001

Thanks guys. Rock, what's your experience with Hicks? Are they still going for ~$60?

Lenny, I have nothing but good to say about the Hicks accurizer and they are 59.95 it was worth the money to me...

Mike -- wished I'd tried your suggestions when I got the gun, but I've had it more than a year now and alot more than 200 rounds have gone through it. Any other advice? Typically, it strings with little horizontal dispersion, but at 100 yds., off a rest, can go 5" as the barrel heats up. I just might give that Accurizer a try, but am wondering if bedding the action and floating the barrel would be more useful. The #1A is undoubtedly the most eloquent-looking gun in my cabinet, especially since I put a Leupold fixed 6X scope on it. Wished it shot better.

Re: 1A

Lanny,
Sure sounds like it is heat stringing. Fellow by the name of Roy DiBartelleto has a web sight for #1's. Talks about removing the forearm, putting 3 layers of electricians tape between the barrel and the forearm. Sprays the receiver extension and forearm screw with PAM (as a release agent), puts some Micro-Bed (from brownells or local gun shop) where the receiver extensi9on contacts the forearm. Installs the forearm and draws the screw tight but not snug. Let's it set. Taes the forearm off, removes the tape and installs the forearm, tightening the screw down 'til it is snug. Should be able to get a $1 between the forearm and the barrel.
Would also try some J-B bore paste to slick the barrel up some.

Bedding a No.1 Ruger

I own a No.1 S in .218 Bee and the following bedding worked so well this rifle is now the most accurate in my rack. (The cartridge isn't bad either)

I replaced the forend with a 1B forend. Apart from opening up the barrel channel to fit the thicker barrel profile, I made sure that there was no contact between the rear of the forend and the receiver. Contact was left at the front but only enough upward presssure to stop movement in the forearm. I used no bedding compound or extra screws.

This is a trick also used in old Martini single shots.
Cheers,

Well here is my coment. Some rugers, the barrel were made by Hart barrels inc.others are made by a company that makes cheep muzzel loaders. It just so happens that I know a couple of people that work for Ruger. Right from the horses mouth. I also own a flat top 77 in 284 and for the life of me I have never been able to get it to shoot the way I want,and believe me I have done everything short of trying a harmonic balance. The best is about 2 in at a 100 yds but I had to slow it down to less than 7/57 speeds. This cart is a short 7mm mag,almost. some day it Will be a 7/08

Lanny,
Ruger is known for very deep throats so playing with seating depth can pay dividends. But 5" groups cry out for some forearm bedding work, and installation of the accurizer. After doing the glass bedding and /or accurizer make sure the forearm is relieved at the face of the action, they shouldn't touch. That's just as important as floating the bbl. the forearm should only touch the hanger not the bbl. or action.