[bender]

Request help identifying S&W Revolver

Fantastic site!

Can anyone help me determine the manufactured date of my dad's Model 10 (I think, it may very well be a 1905)? Serial #130xxx located under grips. Beneath the barrel is displayed "B 130xxx". Its a 5" barrel with a half-moon front sight; four (4) screws on the right side plate. Inside the swing out cylinder is the number "7014".

I have ordered the S&W book referenced previously, but I just can't wait. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[PhilRich01]

Bender, bender , bender, I*'m so confused. you nneed to tell me more. What is the number on the butt? I am not familiar with a "B" prefix. If you truely have a 1905 the SN 130xxx is between 1906 to 1909, Please send some pics.You may have an awesome revolver. Share it with us -Phil

 

[bender]

Bender, bender , bender, I*'m so confused. you nneed to tell me more. What is the number on the butt? I am not familiar with a "B" prefix. If you truely have a 1905 the SN 130xxx is between 1906 to 1909, Please send some pics.You may have an awesome revolver. Share it with us -Phil

Phil, thanks so much for your quick reply. Photo is attached. Took it with my phone so it isn't the best. I have the revolver in front of me now. Clear as day, the butt reads: "130xxx". I did make a mistake with the "B" prefix, as it is actually an "S" (it's "really" small and squished...).

Sorry I used the "xxx" in the s/n. I was told long ago to do so but never really knew why. People on GunBroker seem to show theirs all the time.

 

[bender]

Phil, thanks so much for your quick reply. Photo is attached. Took it with my phone so it isn't the best. I have the revolver in front of me now. Clear as day, the butt reads: "130xxx". I did make a mistake with the "B" prefix, as it is actually an "S" (it's "really" small and squished...).

Sorry I used the "xxx" in the s/n. I was told long ago to do so but never really knew why. People on GunBroker seem to show theirs all the time.

MORE INFO: Left side of the barrel displays, "38 S.&W. Special CTG". Nothing exists on the barrel's right side. Also, the word/name "LYMAN" is clearly visible on the right side of the front sight.

 

[Hammer Down]

MORE INFO: Left side of the barrel displays, "38 S.&W. Special CTG". Nothing exists on the barrel's right side. Also, the word/name "LYMAN" is clearly visible on the right side of the front sight.

Hello
That is an M&P Target Model revolver from the Teens to very early 1920's as those Non medallion concave stocks would indicate that it is a 38 M&P, 3rd Model (1905), 2nd Change model and back then they Lacked the S&W one line address of made in USA. It will have barrel patent dates on the top of the barrel. it is a very Nice looking M&P Target model... Hammerdown

 

[PhilRich01]

Bender,

Great looking M&P Target, Your Dad made a good choice of this firearm. The Target models have a 50% to 100% premium over the open sight 1905's. Hammer Down hit it square on as it is a 38 M&P, 3rd Model (1905), 2nd Change model. He very seldom misses!

The only exception I have is that the non medallion concave stocks were generally used between 1904 and 1910, leaving your "Born" date still between 1906 and 1909 with serial numbers of that era running between 73251 and 146899, my SWAG would be 1909!

As far as showing serial numbers, the last two or three digits can be "X"s. The concern running through the internet is that some criminally corrupt clown might claim that he or she has lost the firearm and that is his serial number and he wants the firearm returned. If you have any documentation, letters or memorandum showing that it is yours legitimately, the criminally corrupt clown can be charged and prosecuted for making a false police report. Most people don't want to be hassled so they just X-out the last few numbers. The choice is yours, whatever you feel comfortable with. Most firearms can be dated with the last few digits unknown.

Again Bender, a very super smith you have. Here is my 3rd model 1905 4th change. This one was delivered to a gun shop in Los Angeles in August 1925. The real stag stocks are third party, sure wish I had some proper period walnuts...but the stags have grown on me and I enjoy shooting with them. -Phil

 

[bender]

PhilRich01 and Hammer Down, you guys are outstanding! Can't thank you enough!

My great-grandfather bought the M&P Target brand new way back in the day and gave it to my dad back in the 1960s. I don't believe its been shot in 40 years. After discovering my dad also has a magnificent 6" K-22 (which I learned all about from Hammer Down), I have developed a new found appreciation of these marvelous S&W revolvers. Thank you again for sharing the knowledge!

 

[duckgrinder]

Just got my hands on a .38 spl. The barrel is 1 7/8" the gun has no model number on it anywhere. It does have a Serial # 125447. When I swing open the frame there is 63550 stamped on the frame and cylinder. I know nothing about it other than it has been in my wifes family. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[PhilRich01]

Duckgrinder,

Welcome to the forum! Need more info on your snubie. My first thought would be that the 63550 number might be your serial number. What is the number on the butt of the revolver. Is there a prefix, a letter before the number on the butt?

Your 38 could be from the early turn of the century but I need more info to be precise. Smith & Wesson did not make any production short barrels that I am aware of in that time period. Please send a pic or two. That would really help - Phil

 

[duckgrinder]

The #125447 is on the butt, there is no letters or prefix anywhere. The # 63550 is only seen when you open the frame to load and is stamped on both the frame and swing out (maybe part numbers?). This is the first S&W I own, it has been passed through my wifes family. Sorry for the lack of information.

 

[PhilRich01]

Duckgrinder,

Does it look like Bender's up above (post # 43) except for the short barrel? Did you measure the barrel from the front face of the cylinder? Does it have the one line address "Made in USA" on the right side slightly forward of between the trigger and the cylinder or not? Is it a fixed rear sight (like mine in post # 46) or adjustable target sight like bender's? What does the front sight look like (half moon or something else)? What kind of grips does it have?

Duckgrinder, you have a very special 38 there. Date it about the same as Bender's 38, 1906 -1909, again guessing close to 1909. I would love to see a picture of it, especially of the barrel from the cylinder forward. You just might possess a very unique gem. Tell me more. Thanks, - Phil

 

[duckgrinder]

Duckgrinder,

Does it look like Bender's up above (post # 43) except for the short barrel? Did you measure the barrel from the front face of the cylinder? Does it have the one line address "Made in USA" on the right side slightly forward of between the trigger and the cylinder or not? Is it a fixed rear sight (like mine in post # 46) or adjustable target sight like bender's? What does the front sight look like (half moon or something else)? What kind of grips does it have?

Duckgrinder, you have a very special 38 there. Date it about the same as Bender's 38, 1906 -1909, again guessing close to 1909. I would love to see a picture of it, especially of the barrel from the cylinder forward. You just might possess a very unique gem. Tell me more. Thanks, - Phil

It looks nothing like post # 43. The grip is rounded at the butt and thin all the way down (no flare). Yes the legenth was measured from the forcing cone. It does say Made in USA where you say. All sights are fixed, the front is a small ramp style. Sorry no pictures I will try my best to get some for you.

 

[duckgrinder]

I just remembered, (at my office) the address it has does say made in USA but it also has a state location also, it is on the right side of the gun in front of the trigger.

 

[22plinker]

Found a S&W Model 686-3, that is for sale locally. Wonder what you can tell me about it? Serial # BED889x. It has a full lug 6" Barrel. There is an "S" stamped inside the crane, also stamped is "758" (inside the crane) The gun is stainless steel, with nice original wood grips. The firing pin is on the hammer, there is no safety & I assume it was made after 1988, but before 1993. Can you add anything?

 

[PhilRich01]

22plinker,

Your 686-3 was "born" 1989, "prolly" on a warm August afternoon, or maybe morning! I love my 686 no dash 4 inch ported shooter. The ports are a fantastical light show at night, somewhat blinding. The "L" frame is a near perfect size, not as heavy as the "N" but much stronger than the "K" frame.

I have sent some Lil'Gun loads down the barrel at close to 2000 feet per second (fps) and some 180 grain hunting rounds at over 1600 fps. Knocks them feral pigs down in a flash! The 686 can take a mighty full load and keep beggin' for more. I have a couzin living in Yuma 1/2 the year, travels the other half. Great outdoor range you have there.

There has been a 686 six incher sitting in my gun runners cabinet now for about two months. He is asking $600.00 The six incher should make a great hunting revolver. Enjoy - Phil

 

[22plinker]

22plinker,

Your 686-3 was "born" 1989, "prolly" on a warm August afternoon, or maybe morning! I love my 686 no dash 4 inch ported shooter. The ports are a fantastical light show at night, somewhat blinding. The "L" frame is a near perfect size, not as heavy as the "N" but much stronger than the "K" frame.

I have sent some Lil'Gun loads down the barrel at close to 2000 feet per second (fps) and some 180 grain hunting rounds at over 1600 fps. Knocks them feral pigs down in a flash! The 686 can take a mighty full load and keep beggin' for more. I have a couzin living in Yuma 1/2 the year, travels the other half. Great outdoor range you have there.

There has been a 686 six incher sitting in my gun runners cabinet now for about two months. He is asking $600.00 The six incher should make a great hunting revolver. Enjoy - Phil

That's what I was hoping to hear! If it's still there tomorrow.... I'll let you know.... Thanks a bunch for the quick reply!!!

 

[duckgrinder]

I an going to try to post some pics, I have never done this before so bear with me. On the Right side of the gun it says
Made in USA
Marcas Registradas
Smith & Wesson
Springfield, Mass

On the same side on the barrel it says .38 S&W SPL
On the Left side on the barrel it says Smith & Wesson

My camera's flash dosent work so the pics are a little dark and won't show much detail, I hope this helps you out in pinning something down.

 

[PhilRich01]

duckgrinder,

Every thing that I told you---NEVERMIND!

I was totally on the wrong page. You have a Chiefs Special model 36 (Unless it says "Airweight" on the barrel which I cannot see) "J" frame. Your serial number of 125447 would show a "Born" date of early 1958. The serial number 125000 should be the start on model numbers in very late 1957. It should be marked in the yoke (S&W has always called it the yoke, as does Taurus; Colt, Ruger, and Dan Wesson call it the crane). It should say "MOD. 36".

I cannot tell the exact condition from the pics, but it looks pretty good. The flat latch that you have does command a premium in price, but I'm sure that it probably has higher value to you as a family heirloom.

The Chiefs Special name was used with the introduction of the "J" frame, replacing the old smaller "I" frame, at the police chiefs convention, I believe in 1950. Sorry duckgrinder about the miss information. Great example of a picture worth a thousand words and we really need pics for proper identification. Enjoy - Phil

 

[duckgrinder]

Thanks for the info on this, the day I posted this is the day I recieved this gun. I knew nothing about it until I found this site. Thank you for the help in letting me know what I have. One last question, it also came with some ammo, it's Whinchester .38 SPL+P hollow points. I don't know if this gun has ever been fired, are these rounds ok?

 

[PhilRich01]

Duckgrinder,

There are several schools of thought on the older "J" frames, as well as what is a "+P" load. Entire posts have been generated on the subjects (you can search this forum for them). Most +P loads today are the 1960 -1970 standard loads, so one thought would be a 1960+ gun that fired standard loads in its day can handle +P's today. You can call or email Smith & Wesson for their answer, but it will probably be the "Lawyer-ed Up" response. Some say that any "numbered" (1957 and later) model gun from S & W should handle +P loads.

I have fired many +P loads from my 36-1 Smith. You will find that the +P loads are a little "snappy" and have been known to cause PHP (physical hand pain). I fire wadcutters in mine and find it a very very fun gun and load to fire. I have used "reverse" hollow base wadcutters for self defense (SD) purpose and find them more than adequate and they expand like nobodys business (makes a very big hole).

For MY firearms, and my model 36, I have used +P's, as well as some Lil'Gun loads (pushing a 158 grain LSWC at 1300 fps) but not as a regular diet, both for the gun and my hand. Now and then should be fine, IMHO. I do find that "reverse hollow base wadcutters are a much better choice for ME for SD, big or bigger hole than +P's, much better accracy in a high stress situation, quicker accurate second shot and much kinder to me YMMV.

Take good care of your model 36, they are getting very expensive lately, not only are they a super firearm, I believe a very good investment. Enjoy - Phil