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Savage 110, 10,112

13531 Views 7 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  savparts
Ok guys, I need some info on the Savage 110, 10, and 112 rifles. I've been a Winchester and Remington man all my life... do the Savage varmint and tactical models really perform THAT well? What changes need to be made to the stock versions? What optics do you reccomend for 500 yd + shooting? Finally, is the model 10 Law Enforcement pkg. with the Burris scope and the Harris bipod really as outstanding as they claim?


Thanks...
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Jesse,
I have a 10FP in .308. I love this gun. Very accurate for stock. I adjusted the stock trigger. works fine but do have plans of getting aftermarket. I am currently using a bushnell banner, 6-18X50. Not top of the line, but i am very impressed with it for the money. I have never had a problem with it, in fact , i bought another one to put on my handi rifle, .243. Cant offer much on the LE1, but have heard good things. One other thing, the Savage synthetic stocks arent worth much, but do work. I have plans of replacing it also.
Observations on my 110FP after two years...
Still makes palm sized groups at 600yds if I'm up to it.
The Leopold Tactical on top gets some of that credit.
Finding a suitable handload did not take long, as all the different bullets fired through it have given under an inch groups, some less than 1/2 inch. My prefered load at this time is fairly standard: 43gr of 4895, Hornady 168gr match, Lake City '91 match brass, Winchester primers, COL of 2.805. These fall inside a 3/4 inch circle all day long.
The forearm is too flexible IMO (which doesn't seem to effect accuracy) and needed to be relieved around the barrel for proper floating, esp. on a bipod. An aftermarket stock would be nice, but would raise the price and isn't neccesary.
The trigger needed work, which took some fiddling but gave the best improvement in group size. At this time mine is clean and crisp at about 3 lbs. Mostly it involved breaking the edges (possibly not a good idea with the heat treated metal involved) and adjusting the spring tension.
I found it neccesary to shim the rear of the scope base to reach beyond the 600yd line with my particular combination.
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My 12fvss is good

I am still trying to get a five shot one hole with mine, but I get nervous after four and end up with a flyer. I had the trigger adj at a smith (65.00$$) It was worth it but I am trying to adjust the trigger on my new 12bvss in .243, any help from you guys on stoning the sear would be helpful. Also I am going to bed both rifles soon, but I have questions on where not to get the bedding material. Savage rifles are good units for the guy that doesn't have a bank wad to blow on a rifle. Spend your money on the glass, and watch the guys on the range gape at your results. jgang
Older 110 C

I have an older (1980's) 110 C J series, in .30-06.
It still out shoots my Ruger M77 in .243 to the point where I sold the Ruger.

I bought this rifle used, stripped and oil finished the stock, and sighted in the scope. It's a great rifle. and extremely smooth and accurate. Hard to go wrong.

Mark
She's bedded, now moly!

Jeez, was I ever frightened to bed my new rifle. I new she was gonna be glued forever. The bedding went wonderful and now I will put her back together and I am wondering if anybody else has used moly on a virgin barrel. I am hoping to achieve maximum accuracy with this 12bvss .243. Has anybody ever fire lapped a virgin barrel also? The kit says to use the 220 grit first, then 320, then 660. I was gonna use 5 rnds of 220 then 15 of 320 and 15 of 660. How does that sound or should I even bother? Thanks jgang
I'm not fond of moly, but there are those that swear by it. More hard information would be useful...
Do NOT firelap until you have finished and fired the rifle for score. Maybe not even then. Firelapping ages your bore very rapidly, the precision guys spit the word out with venom. I believe that it has a place, but not in your gun. Now, a proper hand-lapping job may provide some improvement, but find out what it will do first.
A far simpler idea is the shoot-clean-shoot school of thought, especially for initial breakin.

From your rifle's point of view, firelapping is a radical sugical procedure. Don't do it in a precision rifle unless it just won't shoot, AND slugging your bore shows serious points of restriction.
Jesse said:
Ok guys, I need some info on the Savage 110, 10, and 112 rifles. I've been a Winchester and Remington man all my life... do the Savage varmint and tactical models really perform THAT well? What changes need to be made to the stock versions? What optics do you reccomend for 500 yd + shooting? Finally, is the model 10 Law Enforcement pkg. with the Burris scope and the Harris bipod really as outstanding as they claim?


Thanks...
Your question can be answered here
Savage Shooters
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