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The Savage isnt known to have the best trigger pull and mine was no exception. It was horrible, sloppy, and had a very hard pull.
After reading tons of stuff online, I decided to try fixing it myself and just got it back together.....after chasing the small parts, springs and stuff across the shop floor.
It took more time than I thought because I very carefully honed and polished everything. I put .018" shims under the rear of the trigger group and a .013" under the front...all hand made from an old feeler gauge. This was kind of a trial and error thing using different thicknesses to find the best combination.
WOW!!! The difference is amazing! The whole project cost me less than a buck for a spring. Still a little side to side slop in the trigger but thats easily fixed.
I cant wait to try it out. There is absolutely no creep at all. Just a little pressure on the trigger and bang! Hope there is less work involved on the 10/22 :)
 

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Joe, I've done trigger jobs on three Marlin bolt rifles (two .22s and a .17), a Ruger 10-22 and a Stevens 416 target rifle. All these rifles were comparatively easy.
A few tips on the 10-22:
Be vewy, vewy careful - those pins can fall out! Hehehe . . .
(I wasn't gonna do the trigger work yet, but the pins fell out, and thus the trigger pack fell out - oh well, might as well work it now!)

Polishing the hammer is the single best thing you can do - Ruger oughta be fined for the crude job they do on the hammer - very rough! I used some ultra-fine plastic-backed sandpaper from a model-building finishing set. Then finish up with a super fine honing stone. Go easy, and don't change any angles or remove too much metal. Don't touch the sear unless you're trying for a real super light trigger.
Mine went from the approx 7 or 8 pound mushy "Lawyer-Trigger" to a crisp four pounder - could be lighter, but it suits me.

A new lighter spring from a mechanical pen/pencil works well. Mine was a tad larger diameter than stock - I had to drill out the hole in the back of the trigger guard a bit larger. Just go in at an angle, you'll see what I mean. The hole is angled to one side. Lose the plunger pin - it ain't needed.

Another good trick is to grind a bevel or "chamfer" on the bottom rear corner of the bolt. This improves it's ability to slide back over the hammer.

Check out the 10-22 forums over on RimfireCentral.com - those boys live&breath Ruger 10-22! :cool:
 

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Rifle Basix makes an aftermarket trigger kit for Savage .22's now. I've installed two R. Basix triggers so far and they really work great. I did my 700 Rem and a friends Sav.112, both adjusted easly to 1.5lbs with a variation of only +/- 1oz on my scale. I would recomend the Rifle Basix triggers to anyone without reservations.
 

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Yup, what Dave said. I used the Rifle Basix in my Marlin 2000 target and have put a couple in at the shop - they work pretty good. One note though, they usually (on the Marlin rimfires) render the safety inoperable. There's more slop in the fit of the safety engagement than you have trigger pull with the new parts.
I haven't put one in my .17 yet because I will have to work the safety to get solid function out of it for that rifle. I don't worry about the 2000 because it's a range rifle and only gets one at a time - safe is unloaded, REAL safe is laying on the rest with the bolt removed.
 

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i hear that max, by sporter rifle doesn't even have a safety on it now. nor does it take a clip anymore. but like you said one shot and down on the bench.
 
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