Stock Doc question......

Discussion in 'The Powder Keg' started by Woj, Mar 17, 2002.

  1. Woj

    Woj Guest

    Dr. Stock.......What did you recommend for stripping off old finishes...I believe some folks recommend Oven Cleaner, but you recommented....TSP?? I believe......just curious...........THANKS!!!!
  2. CARman

    CARman Guest

    Stock Doc,I have a question as well.On the old board just before it changed,I asked you about an M1 stock that was left in the attic and had the oil pulled to the surface.As you said it looks like little worms.I finally got around to using your Go-Jo handcleaner suggestion and you had said to let you know how it turned out.Well it didn't come out as well as I'd hoped and need further assistance if possible.Some of it came out but left the majority of it.Do I just keep applying the Go-Jo until I get all of it off ? Also,since this is my first time to use something on a stock I didn't expect it to look so dried out.I hope I didn't do something wrong.I have some boiled linseed oil,how do I apply it after I finally get the oil off of the stock? I know it can't be good to leave it that dry.Or should I just send it to you ? Thanks for any help from this extremely uninformed rookie.

  3. Stock Doc

    Stock Doc G&G Evangelist

    Here is the ball of wax again. Go through it and see if this will answer some questions for you both and anyone else. I'min a giving mood today so the secrets are out hehehehehe. But I'm licensed hahahahah.

    Ok here it is. First I get a hold of E-Z-GO hand cleaner or GO-JO which is waterless and gritless. Most probably any will do. I rub it on stock in sink of course and then let it set for about 15-30 minutes depending on amount of dirt and if markings are on stock. Now I take and rub on a hand full more then take a tooth brush and rub it but not real hard near edges and cartouches. I rinse with warm water again careful around markings incase there weak.Use the tooth brush to brush off hand cleaner while rinsing.
    If the stocks is heavy oil and no cartouches {or cartouched be gentle}use Bix Stripper int eh red and white can its not so harsh. Follow instructions on can. Also you can try Trisodium Phosphate and make a paste out of it then tooth brush it on. Wait 10 minutes and rub some water on with the tooth brush to make sure it doesn't dry on stock. Now wait about 5-10 minutes and rinse you will see the dirt still but after it dries you will be amazed. You can repeat this method until happy but again be careful if there are Cartouches.If the stock is terrible I use a cement plastic mixing tub with TSP {Trisodium Phosphate} and hot water. I soak them for a day if needed. I scrub them periodically to remove the grime the TSP brought out at that point. Let water cool down don't worry about getting new hot water in the tub even though hot water is best. Now when satisfied rinse them off and hang dry for a day or more. The stock will look dark when you take it out but when it dries you will fall over.
    Now you can steam if wanted I use a bucket of water ,a rag and a iron with steam cycle. I soak the rag and lay it on stock dents then iron it until steam stops or water is out of rag. I fold the rag sometimes to hold more water and the steam last longer. This is a hit or miss thing it may take days of this to see results. Most times it just lightens them up.
    Now sand lightly with 100 or 120 but lightly to not put big scratches in the stock when happy with this Then take 220 and lightly sand the whole stock in direction of grain and periodically use 0000steel wool to smooth it out and see scratches that need to be 220 out. When happy with this steel wool the whole stock until smooth . {

    NOTE} Some stocks especially IHC and Winchester are known to have heavy sand marks in the eh wood hand guard especially. This under no circumstances should be removed and only steel wooled lightly. Heck it make you're job easier. The collectors value is allot higher on a unsanded marked up fat stock over a smooth skinny one trust me. Keep in mind the very early Winchester stocks were hand carved because the lathe was not finished for them so they inletted them and carved the final. I have one of these and it is a exceptional piece with a No-Trap butt without the hinge cut out.

    Now you stain to you're color preference Remembering in WWII they only oiled the stocks not stained so you're choice on stain now. Leave it natural if you want true history. I use Chestnut Ridge on Walnut and on Birch Chestnut Ridge and then FIEBING'S Dark Brown leather die some times to get a muddy red color. I Also use brown then FIEBING'S Mahogany on Birch to get reddish/Brown kinda Black Cherry look. Chestnut ridge and others can be put on to darken and also put on after oil is dry and on while refinishing. You should let stains dry 24 hours and 24 hours before you add another color. Peaceful not to use the bottle to dip as other color on stock will contaminate the color you are using to top coat. Example if I put Mahogany on then use rag to shake bottle of Chestnut Ridge on rag to top coat for a match the Mahogany will get in to the Chestnut Ridge and slowly ruin the color. Try and get a little cup or something to pour stain into then take it from there for stock.
    Now the next day If Stain lifted grain you need to lightly steel wool it down. I brush or small piece of rag on a coat of Boiled Linseed Oil {use gloves then hand cleaner off the oil later}and wait 20-30 minutes then take a old t-shirt and rub the oil off making sure there is no excess anywhere. I rub it to death to buff it kinda. I repeat this every 24 hours till 5-7 coats are glossy and even with no dull spots. WARNING hang the rags out and never let them sit balled up on the bench they will self combust and you will burn you're house down. It almost happened to me and I was very lucky. I finished for the night and went up to my office with a stock to get some photos off for a client. About a hour later I was fighting with myself to take the stock back to the shop or leave it until morning in the office. Finally I took it back and set it in a rack outside of the shop and noticed a stock with a repair pin shining and decided to touch it with a dark brown stain pen. I walked in the shop turn on lights and fell warmth then noticed a vapor in the air like steam on hot pavement. I was confused what was going on and then smelled something weird. I looked down to my right on the bench and heard a small woosh and low pop sound and the rags ignited in a light colored flame. I picked them up and ran to other room and tossed them in the wash tub and rinsed them. If I hadn't gone down there my home would have been lost. You can also wet them and toss them out in the yard till morning but keep them away from house. They make a special can for this purpose if you decide to do this allot.
    Now I take 0000steel wool and lightly dull surface with it. Then I take Minwax Furniture Polish for dark colors {light one will stick in grain and look like white paint if you leave it to long}and put two coats of this on and I am done.

    Well hope this helps let me know if you have any questions. Thanks Rick B
  4. CARman

    CARman Guest

    Thanks Stock Doc,I guess I got in over my head.I just wanted to get the oil out that was beaded up on the stock and pretty much keep it the way it was when I got it.I thought I could just clean the beads of oil off and refinish it with boiled linseed oil.Thanks again.
  5. Stock Doc

    Stock Doc G&G Evangelist

    That stock will continue to bleed as long as a bad finsih was on it. The damge never leaves when it was done wrong. I have left my finsihes out in the hot sun over over 8 hrs {ask those who seen it at Camp Perry} and they never bleed. My very early stock will most probably because I didnt know as many tricks and how to properly cure them back in the very begining. It was very hard to get a straight answer on finshing like I give back then. Rick B
  6. When you steam to remove dents etc you in essence raise the grain of the wood. Does this in effect raise the grain around the cartouch and thus weaken the cartouch? or does one just do it in issolated spots where there are dents?
  7. Stock Doc

    Stock Doc G&G Evangelist

    I steam directly in the area with the dent. If the cartouche is with one then it stays I am not a miracle worker and not like a few profesionals I have been told removed them to get them to look like a new stock. When I do a stock it will look allot nicer but dont expect it to be brand new looking as the stains go deep in the wood allot of times and that would mean sanding allot. I like some history to stay in the wood and so far everyone seems to like it. I pride my work and the work our service men put in the wood from use. A flawless stock looks funny on a Garand. Kind of looks fake to me. Rick B
  8. DaveTinNY

    DaveTinNY Guest

    I agree with you Rick! A perfect stock just doesn't look right. The dings give it a little personality. :)

    Dave T