Want Help On refinshing

Discussion in 'Mosin Nagant' started by Sober, Sep 3, 2010.

  1. Sober

    Sober G&G Newbie

    Hi guys, I am going to my fathers house tomarrow and He is a professional painter and In his garage he has Everything you could possibly think of. My problem is The piece of wood that covers the barrel on my Mosin nagant is darker than that of the wood stock. Thats why I want to Refinish It, I want it to look a little more uniform not to mention the finish near the muzzle end is Severly discolored and the paint on the endcaps is flaking. But because that Wood over the barrel is darker I am obviously goin to have to use a darker stain. Anyway I called him and he said he has some Dark Cherry stain and some Teak oil. So what do I do? He wont be there to help so this is why I ask. I dont want to sand out the dings and dents cause to me that adds character. What I am thinking is takin some steel wool and removing the old finish, wipe it down to get the dust off,Take some masking tape and cover the end cap,sling slots, and cross bolt, Put X coats of stain(I say X cause I have no idea how many coats to apply) then after that puting 3 or 4 coats of teak oil on it. Does this sound right?
     
  2. franchi

    franchi Guest

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    i used paint stripper on my stock and it worked great. then i put dark cherry stain on it to, i forget how much. then to finish i put 4 coats of poly on it. u could use teak oil if you like
     

  3. gandog56

    gandog56 G&G Evangelist

    Unfortunately the wood in your handguard may be darker because it is not the same kind of wood. There was a lot of mismatching when they were being refurbished. Your only option may be to stain all your wood to match the darker wood.
     
  4. Sounds like it should work - one suggestion, though. Put a small dab of the stain you want to use on the INSIDE of the piece you are going to stain, let it dry and see how close you are to matching colors. Ok, two suggestions - denatured alcohol will remove shellac, which is most likely what the flaking finish you describe is. Wet the wood with alcohol and the steel wool will take the old finish off with minimal work and minimal removal of the character of the stock.
     
  5. Sober

    Sober G&G Newbie

    Will Paint Thinner or Acetone Work? My dad also has M.E.K. but that would probably dissolve the wood LOL
     
  6. jmeck

    jmeck Scope mount mfgr. Forum Contributor

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    Paint thinner won't remove shellac, acetone might. Denatured alcohol is the best of the 3 mentioned. You can also remove the shellac with dawn powerscrubber or easyoff oven cleaner, with either of those your stock will be wet from rinsing with water and will need to dry for a day. I think your going to have a hard time getting the handguard to match the stock if you stain them both, the handguard will get darker as well as the stock. Maybe just stain the stock to the darker shade of the handguard. You could bleach the handguard to lighten it but I don't recommend it. Apply the stain, let soak in a little bit and then wipe it off. Repeat this untill you get the color to come close to matching. Good luck with your project
     
  7. You all may have heard it before, but citristrip works wonders on orignal MN finish. Spray on, about 15-20 min later wipe off with a rag. They sell it at Ace and wally world Welcome to CitriStrip.com
     
  8. RangeShooter

    RangeShooter G&G Newbie

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    Tung\teak oil are the easiest to apply and get a smooth finish, as it is applied then buffed off.
    Shellac dries quickly, does not pool well and needs dilution and in general is a pain but produces nice depth and golden tones over any color stain.
    Spray on lacquer/poly will pool to a nice mirror finish, but drips/sags become a problem. Thin spray layers tend to be spotty.
    Some color tips on stain:
    Walnut: best for primarily Brown tone.
    Gunstock, Mahogany: Red tones
    Oak: tends to be greenish
    Maple: (Colonial)yellow to orange
    Walnut makes the best base layer IMHO, and can be toned redder with Gunstock or more "chocolate" brown with colonial maple and amber shellac using techniques best explained here:
    Malta Furniture Manufacturers Organisation - MFMO
    3x Walnut over 1x Gunstock:
    [​IMG]
    Finished with Tung oil over shellac (yes, it works fine):
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2010
  9. Tulamosin

    Tulamosin G&G Enthusiast

    I prefer the gel myself, regardless, Citristrip is effective and won't make your head spin with fumes.
     
  10. Sober

    Sober G&G Newbie

    Well fella's I took that advice on citristrip and Man what a cool product. I put it on and 15-20 min later all the shellac was actually falling of the stock. At the moment Im still in the process of staining. Using Minwax(it was the only brand at homedepot) Red Mohagany and Its absolutely beautiful although it takes FOREVER to dry. If I could I would stain all the wood I own that color. Who would have thought that a Mosin Nagant actually had grain. I was pleasantly suprised to find a decent grain pattern under all that Shellac. I'll post pics as soon as Im done but it will probably take a couple more days because I have to wait **** near 24 hours between coats. I don't know if yall will like it but I LOVE IT and thats all that matters LOL
     
  11. Tulamosin

    Tulamosin G&G Enthusiast

    It can be amazing how pretty the wood is once that crap is removed. One other suggestion I have for the next time (or if you redo this one) is after the citrisstrip has done its job and been cleaned off is to use some Minwax pre-stain wood conditioner. It is quick to apply and helps keep the finish even.