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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I AM NEW TO RELOADING HAVENT EVEN STARTED YET DONT KNOW WHAT TO GET I MADE A LIST OF ALL I THINK I NEED TO START PLEASE EDIT MY LIST IF YOU KNOW SOMETHING ELSE I NEED I WANNA START OUT WITH JUST RELOADING FOR MY CZ-52 SO I JUST NEED EVERTHING FOR 7.62 TOK .WHATS THE BEST KIND OF POWDER TO USE? OR ANYTHING ELSE THAT I MIGHT NEED?

HERE IS MY LIST:


RCBS Reloading starter kit $269.99
RCBS Shellholder #16 $6.59
Lee Steel 3-Die Set 7.62x25mm Tokarev $23.49
Lee Factory Crimp Die 7.62x25mm Tokarev $ 18.49
Remington Large Pistol Primers #2-1/2 $25.99
Sierra SportsMaster Bullets 7.62mm Tok 85 Grain Round Nose $17.99
 

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Freedom Zealot
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Looks like a good start! Do you have sufficient brass?
 

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I notice you dont mention reloading manuals or load books. the better powders are HS6,power pistol,ww540.- Herco,800-x, and AA#7 will work.At least get some load manuals.They are free from most powder co,s,bullet mfg,s and press mfg,s just give your address on their web site and they will mail them to you.That case is a little touchey as the shoulder is easy to push out when resizing.Make sure they are lubed good and if they seem to go in the die hard,back out and relube.Have a good experience and stay safe. sam.
 

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allways buy and by the book its safer than a trip to the hospital or worse and your crimp die should allready be in your 3 die set
 

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I tried to find records on reloading this bottleneck cartridge but failed.As I recall I did not crimp the bullets as they were 85gr fmj with no cannilure so they could'nt be crimped and it probably isnt necessary because they are seated in a straight wall neck that has no taper like a 9mm has and grips the bullet tightly.I do recall that it was a potent cartridge and could develope 400lbs ke with an 85gr bullet.Casings are hard to find and I made some out of 9mm Winchester.If you have trouble finding them old western scrounger might have them.Maybe some others would have a better source. sam.
 

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I must say that you didn't pick an easy round for your first reloading session. The bottle-necked 7.62x25 can be reloading, but it's not as simple as a straight-walled .38 or .44.

You will need to lubricate your cases before reloading. There are some good spray-on lubs available, or you can use a pad and roll the cases. Either way be sure to lube. Don't try to resize unlubed cases with your steel dies.
 

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I see nothing wrong with the Lee Classic Cast press. You can save some $$ over the RCBS. You should consider a case trimmer. Lee makes a good one that works with a drill. Not sure if Lee makes them for this cartridge however. I find STP works well as a case lube. If you want the best accuracy, just buy a powder scale and don't bother with the powder measure. I find the balance beam type accurate and reliable. Mine is over 40 years old (Redding).



This link would suggest Sierra and Lee may be the best source of loading data. You may want to check out those two manuals to see which one looks the best, and get one. Having a good manual is always the best place to start when getting into reloading.

Load Data

Hope that helps some.

Ron
 

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For cases check Graf and sons and midway. You can check both online also check in "links" at the top of the page to see if anyone has what you need.
 

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Freedom Zealot
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His RCBS starter kit will come with lube pad and 0505 powderscale.
 

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i wouldnt recomend lee dies the expander ball slips use rcbs dies with the theaded expander ball.
FWIW, they're built that way for a reason and if the decapper slips during normal usage, the collet isn't tight enough. This is what keeps the decapping pin from breaking if you get a crimped primer or a piece of berdan brass by accident. Ask billy what happens when you break an RCBS decapping pin at an inopportune time...
 

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I bought the Lee Anniversary Kit for $119.00 Canadian. I figure with dies, powders, bullets, primers, and a few other odds and ends I started for about $300.00. Try this website Load Data if you can find this site it gives a bit of info
 

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Beware bullet setback

I do not load for the Tokarev, but I do load the 357 Sig , which is also a high-intensity (about 40,000 psi), bottle-neck pistol cartridge.

The short bottle neck does not tend to be very good for resisting the bullet being pushed back into the case when fed into the chamber. If the bullet slips back into the case several hundreds of an inch, the pressure may increase a lot.

I start by making up a dummy round and cycle it by hand through the action (feed it from the magazine) a few times and measure it with a caliper to the nearest 0.001" each time. When I get the dies set so that the bullet in a new dummy does not set-back with hand cycling, I put a another new dummy in a magazine and cycle it into the chamber by firing a factory round. A new dummy should be able to take that at least once without more than a few thousandths setback. Try it a few times with the same dummy and see how many times you can do it before the bullet starts moving back.

Even factory ammo will probably start to move if this is done enough times with the same cartridge. So, you will probably need to be careful with ejecting and reusing unfired cartridges, even factory ammo, to be sure that your bullets do not slip back on the next feed cycle.

Resistance to bullet setback in the 357 Sig is best accomplished by a very clean (brushed and degreased) surface inside the case neck and a small enough expander plug (at least 0.002" less than bullet diameter). The bullet is only slightly taper crimped because the literature insists that the 357 Sig cartridge acutally still head-spaces on the rim, not the shoulder. (I don't know if that is true, and I still size as if the shoulder should not be set back too far by the sizing die.) The Tokarev has even less of a shoulder than the Sig (smaller surface area and shallower angle), so I would expect the same is true of that cartidge. That tends to rule-out a stout roll crimp to lock the bullet in-place. Bullets in at least some 357 Sig factory ammo are glued with a case neck sealant that also seems to help resist bullet setback. I thinks some Tokarev military ammo was stab crimped to make it soldier-proof. But that isn't a very good practice for hand-loaders, because it distorts case necks and may interfere with accurracy and feeding.

Have fun and stay safe.

SL1
 

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The RCBS starter kit is a good way to go. If you shoot a lot, a Dillon progressive press is a lot faster, but will probably cost about $200 more.
I wish I had started with the Dillon and not wasted my money on Lee equipment over the years! Dillon makes excellent pistol dies, and their spray-on case lube is easier and far less messy than using a lube pad.
I think their web site is Dillon Precision: Reloaders, Reloading Equipment, Bullet Reloading, Bullet Reloaders.
 

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I AM NEW TO RELOADING HAVENT EVEN STARTED YET DONT KNOW WHAT TO GET I MADE A LIST OF ALL I THINK I NEED TO START PLEASE EDIT MY LIST IF YOU KNOW SOMETHING ELSE I NEED I WANNA START OUT WITH JUST RELOADING FOR MY CZ-52 SO I JUST NEED EVERTHING FOR 7.62 TOK .WHATS THE BEST KIND OF POWDER TO USE? OR ANYTHING ELSE THAT I MIGHT NEED?

HERE IS MY LIST:


RCBS Reloading starter kit $269.99
RCBS Shellholder #16 $6.59
Lee Steel 3-Die Set 7.62x25mm Tokarev $23.49
Lee Factory Crimp Die 7.62x25mm Tokarev $ 18.49
Remington Large Pistol Primers #2-1/2 $25.99
Sierra SportsMaster Bullets 7.62mm Tok 85 Grain Round Nose $17.99
The RCBS kit is a good place to start, but like others have said get a manual, I would recomend getting a couple. Read them before you start.

Two things that you left off your list that i would think are important. A good set of calipers and a bullet puller. Oh yeah don't be afraid to ask questions here, there are alot of smart people who are willing to teach. Good luck with your reloading.

Despoiler
 

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Yeah, a bottle necked pistol case is definately harder to reload, but it is also where you see the greatest savings by reloading. I reload 357 Sigs for way less than I can buy a box for. I also used to reload .400 Cor-Bon, which was ridiculously overpriced for storebought ammo.
 
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