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The more you powder coat the same bullets, the thicker it'll be.. Are you tumbling your bullets in a #5 tub? Instead of using plastic bb's, I use pieces from a styro-foam cup to increase the static charge. Be sure the lead is clean. Don't handle them too much.
I'm not using a tumbler just shaking & swirling them in a plastic tub by hand. all the bullets out of that casting coated fine but that one batch would not take the powder. you mentioning static electricity attracting the powder to the bullets got me to thinking what could have been the problem. that particular batch of bullets was the last one and sat in the powder tub a while before I put them in the oven. I wonder if the static charge equalized and that is why the powder barely stuck to the lead? I re-coated them and they look great. I also re-sized them again after re-coating.
 

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They are from Missouri Bullet. They come sized at .401” (I just checked a few with my calipers). I have not done the hammer test, but I have found a couple in the dirt that have a little bit of powder coating left on them. My guess is the issue is my Lone Wolf barrel. It’s had very few jacketed bullets run through it, and it seemed to be not as smooth as other bores. I’ll have to try the stock barrel to see if it still leads as badly.
If the PC was washed off being fired it was not applied correctly. Thx for your post. :)
 

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What might work if you want to shoot them is coat them Lee Alox
The LEE Lube will leave lead in the barrel. Proper PC will coat the barrel with smooth clean bore and accuracy will improve. If LEE lube works for you continue using it. Thx for your informative post. :)
 

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loaded up some (65) test "ladder" loads for 230 gr. .45 Super using my newly cast & powder coated bullets and Long Shot & Unique powders. the weather is crappy today so I'm not going crabbing. if the road to my range isn't too flooded, I'll chronograph those loads.
 

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Not much trying to figure out how to best manage my components. With everything being scarce again. WW-748 I use for 5.56 and 7.62 NATO loads. Got them developed enough primers, brass and bullets but I'm short on 748.
I figure as I'm low on 7.62 NATO I'd best load up that.
Also gotta finish the .300WM project.

Being sick has had me backed up on a bunch of stuff.
 

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oversize powder coated bullets can cause problems.
mmmmhmm.
401 sounds correct but your gun may do better with 400.
it also might have a throat problem, it for sure wouldn't be the first one.
I have powdered coated many calibers. We often double coat. I am not aware of the compressed poly formed jackets causing a problem. Please post the problems you are aware of. We need to share our experiences. Thx :)
 

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I shot & chronoed those .45 super loads today. they shot fine but a few wouldn't chamber the first go around. a few had the bullets stuck & pulled when I forced the slide open. when I got home I miked the pulled bullets and some of the "new" ones, all were .452 which is what they were sized to. I'm hoping I just need to tighten down on my crimp die a little.
 

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Did an ammo inventory. Badly need to do some shootin'. Plan on goin' with my boys this weekend and bustin' some clay targets.
 

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I shot & chronoed those .45 super loads today. they shot fine but a few wouldn't chamber the first go around. a few had the bullets stuck & pulled when I forced the slide open. when I got home I miked the pulled bullets and some of the "new" ones, all were .452 which is what they were sized to. I'm hoping I just need to tighten down on my crimp die a little.
I lucked out today Mike. Met an Ole Pal who ranches in Wyoming. He had bought a ton of Winchester primes last year. There were many cartons of small pistol primer. He has no need for Small pistol primers. He sold me 2,000 SPP for $50 dollars. My Large Pistol primers stock is OK.. It was good day under Western Skies, :love: .
 

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Took all the bullets that I left from trying different loads that my guns just do not like, melted them down into ingots. about a 50/ 50 mix of my pistol alloy and my mellow rifle alloy with about 5lbs of hard cast. So I should have something close to hard cast. Could just add 2 percent tin and use it for my Ar 15 plane base project. then cast a test bullet to check hardness later.To give myself an alloy somewhere in the middle to start with. When the Custom mould I ordered from Arsenal gets here.
Got 18 lbs of clean lead, total. Now to decide what to turn it into.


By the Way @Jim Bridger I ordered a set of new lee pro handles for my new mould. This will be the first handle set I ever got new. I have JB welded some an older set. The box said to use about an hour, till hot then epoxy the handles in place. Think I could get away with just using them a whole pour then beating off the handles and reinstalling them with high heat JB. Or should I even worry about it?
 

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Took all the bullets that I left from trying different loads that my guns just do not like, melted them down into ingots. about a 50/ 50 mix of my pistol alloy and my mellow rifle alloy with about 5lbs of hard cast. So I should have something close to hard cast. Could just add 2 percent tin and use it for my Ar 15 plane base project. then cast a test bullet to check hardness later.To give myself an alloy somewhere in the middle to start with. When the Custom mould I ordered from Arsenal gets here.
Got 18 lbs of clean lead, total. Now to decide what to turn it into.


By the Way @Jim Bridger I ordered a set of new lee pro handles for my new mould. This will be the first handle set I ever got new. I have JB welded some an older set. The box said to use about an hour, till hot then epoxy the handles in place. Think I could get away with just using them a whole pour then beating off the handles and reinstalling them with high heat JB. Or should I even worry about it?
Be very careful using any glue with bullet molds. JB is a good product. However it also fails to seal on many projects. JB Weld can take a study heat of 450 F an intermittent heat of 500 F. Lead melts at 620 F . You could receive a dangerous burn if the molds should fail.
 

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I have roto hard super hard if I need it. I have played with alloys a little bit in the 06. However my first goal for this rifle is a 4moa plinking load. May even be subsonic, do not even care if it cycles.
Planing on working with fitment and powder rate. So if it is still a little on the softer side that is ok. But he I do have plans for a " business load later on, and that mix probably will come a bit short.
Thanks for the input.
 

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I have roto hard super hard if I need it. I have played with alloys a little bit in the 06. However my first goal for this rifle is a 4moa plinking load. May even be subsonic, do not even care if it cycles.
Planing on working with fitment and powder rate. So if it is still a little on the softer side that is ok. But he I do have plans for a " business load later on, and that mix probably will come a bit short.
Thanks for the input.
Moroco check Powder Coating for pushing cast bullets . I test my .309 cast bullets with PC in a 30/40 Krag. They are running at 2,200 FPS with a BHN of 7. They are accurate and no leading, I use Eastwood Ford Blue powder coat.
 

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Be very careful using any glue with bullet molds. JB is a good product. However it also fails to seal on many projects. JB Weld can take a study heat of 450 F an intermittent heat of 500 F. Lead melts at 620 F . You could receive a dangerous burn if the molds should fail.
I just read my JB package, yep you are right, thanks!
I may just go ahead and also pin them I have some brass rod
 

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Moroco check Powder Coating for pushing cast bullets . I test my .309 cast bullets with PC in a 30/40 Krag. They are running at 2,200 FPS with a BHN of 7. They are accurate and no leading, I use Eastwood Ford Blue powder coat.
Apparently we think some what a like.Nice to converse with some one who realizes that there are multiple variables.

Sometimes Tin and even a little copper, or even silver can give an extra toughness that does not register big gains with a hardness tester, but when coated with a flexable jacket like powder coat, Moves just right to get the job done.
I like to get my tin by using certified pewter, even though I just refer to it as tin. The little bit of copper, silver and antimony in it can put your alloy right in the sweet spot.

The mould I ordered is a slightly personalized version of the "Elvis" 61 grain PC bullet, ordered it a thousandths small, because I do have plans for a fairly heavy coat of PC.
 

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I de- primed, re-sized, belled and primed a little over 100 pieces of .45 Super brass. I primed them with large pistol magnum primers to because I had some primer swipes with standard lg. pistol primers.
I loaded 15 each of up with 10 gr. & 10.5 gr. of Long Shot . with standard primers, 10 gr of L.S. chronoed a 230 gr bullet around 1140 fps. but had primer swipes. that was my "control". I want to find a load to push a 230 gr bullet around 1200 fps. I also loaded up 10 with 11 grs of Long Shot. just in case 10,5 grs. didn't give my 1200 fps with no bad pressure signs.
this evening I went down to my "range" with the test loads. the 10 gr. loads chroned from 1190 to 1223 ! needless to say, recoil was stout! while shooting, something hit my shoulder and landed in my lap. I thought the worst but it was just my rear adjustable sight. I finish my test string with no sights, the brass still showed primer swipes but not as bad as with the standard primers. I didn't fire any of the 10.5 or 11 gr loads. I think they might be a little too much. I still have a bunch of brass loaded with mag. primers so I think I'm going to use 10 grs of L.S. for a starting point and work down to find a sweet spot of high speed & no primer swipes.
 
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