Gun and Game Forum banner

2741 - 2760 of 2803 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,041 Posts
I was just tapping mine with my knuckles when it needed it yesterday.

Yours all looks a LOT more cleaner than my area for that. I open the garage door and cast right next to the open door and I still have to back away from it some times.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,503 Posts
I was just tapping mine with my knuckles when it needed it yesterday.

Yours all looks a LOT more cleaner than my area for that. I open the garage door and cast right next to the open door and I still have to back away from it some times.
I do not have a designated spot for lack of room. Generally all my major cleaning and alloying outside.My stuff is super clean when I put it in the pot .I use parrifin once, and just leave the carbon float on top till I am done since I bottom pour.
Have to set up then tear it down, put it away, everytime I cast for now.So major clean up a must, as to not be leaving lead everywhere.
That stand top is new and has never been cast on yet.
Had to make a run last night and then again, this morning. Starting a 13.5 hr 3 day work week, today, so now it is going to have to sit there till probably till Saturday.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,041 Posts
I poured another quart or so of 45's I don't need today and tumble lubed them this evening they are drying scattered around in my gold pans and classifier screens.

I'm kinda wishing I'd got the 200 grain version of that mold. I'd get about 15% more shots out of the same lead.

I'm searching about for all the little lumps and pieces I have laying around at the camp fire, in the garage floor, in old iron cook ware, and I'm not really sure where else before I start on my pile of machine counter weights. I found enough today to fill one of my tool box drawers with "presumed" soft lead. BUT I think something else got mixed in a little bit in one pot making it kind of lumpy and "pudding" looking. At low temps it really lumps up like skin on top of cooling pudding but they sure look like good bullets so when it happens I try to pour that pot as close to the bottom as I can get before adding more lead.

Had to start cutting up stuff to get it in the pot. Put it in the vice and turn it so it is close to the table top and then scoot a cake pan under it to catch the chips and cut it with a hack saw. Once I get about 3/4 through I can usually break it hammering a chisel in to the curf of the cut. SCUBA weights and window weights cut up today.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,168 Posts
14 years ago I inherited a 8# plastic jug of powder that the label was off but was labeled with mastic tape 8600. Does anyone out there know or used this before? I haven't heard of this before and now with the powder shortage this might be worth something to me.
Sounds like the makings of some good fireworks to me. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
169 Posts
Re arranging my little loading bench to do some casting In the living room. Layed some floor board on the floor to protect the floor . Moved the powder and primers to the mud room for now.
Have a building project in the mud room. So can not cast in my usual spot for now.
Now to find my mould whacker stick. Then when I am ready I can tie up the curtain so it don't catch fire, and open the window a crack. Then pound out some bullets.
View attachment 160977
That is an old microwave dish under the pot. It will hold a half gallon of water so it should be more then big enough to handle 20 lbs of lead if the pot should let go.
Don't forget to have good ventilation while casting
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
871 Posts
I am home so I will see if I can find the info. I just got 6 pounds of powder from Brownells, 3031, h110 and 1680,, cost me $223.00 so 8 pounds is worth some money, especially if you cannot find any close to what you need.

I cannot find my book that used the surplus powders. The guru who taught me to load 50 years ago said it is 50 BMG powder and would try and trade you out of it, he is in Oklahoma and is a wildcatter and shoots 50 BMG and several cannons. I have asked him for the burn rate but have not heard back. He is one of those technical guys who can do or create anything. He was formerly the head guy for ATT computer hardware for the state. He is the guy the experts call for everything and gun smithing/wildcating just a hobby. For 40 years he has used those little 8 ounce orange juice cans filled with concrete. He has a little cannon that shoots them about 400 yards, pretty fun, he shoots them at lakes, never hit a skier yet, but who knows. Point is, if he knows a burn rate it is likely safe, of course anything you get off the net could be 100% wrong.

My thought, if it was mine, I would try light loads with the lowest amount of powder listed in the current 50 BMG powders, ie, the lowest powder charge with the lightest bullet. Probably would not start with my best gun, maybe an older surplus military gun, 303 Brit, 7.62 x 54, etc. And of course tie a string to the tirgger and tie the gun to an old tire. If no pressure signs, then fire a couple of those over a chrono, to start a base line list and work up. Not dangerous at all if you go slow. However, like chainsaws, going slow means keeping your body parts out of the way until you see where the base line is. I will follow up if he gives me a burn rate.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ron The Legend

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,086 Posts
Thanks. I have been checking and some say M8600 is the same as WC860. The old stuff burns really slow and some claim it's a dirty powder, but good for overbore cartridges and easier on barrel life. I would like to use it instead of my 4831 and 4350 powders, just for plinking. If your buddy wants it, I'm not too far from Ok. Maybe a trade for primers etc?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,232 Posts
perfect in the 7 mauser, it'll duplicate the old military 175gr. speed dot on.
just get as much in the case as possible, and seat the bullet down on top.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,086 Posts
perfect in the 7 mauser, it'll duplicate the old military 175gr. speed dot on.
just get as much in the case as possible, and seat the bullet down on top.
That would be great. I have a lot of 7mm I need to load, but only have 200, 150 gr Corelocks and 100 139 gr hornadys and 100 162 gr. hornadys. I will have a lot of fun working up a load.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,503 Posts
I know we these are desperate times and sometimes call for desperate measures.
But if you can't verify for sure, without a doubt, that you know what powder you have.
IMO
I would at least be putting the first couple rounds in a gun I am not going to cry over to much, on a sled and pull the trigger from at least 10 feet away with a string. Then checking the cases for pressure signs before proceeding.
Just sayin', would not want to be seeing any, "hey look at my new scar" picks being posted.:eek:
Be safe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,086 Posts
I know we these are desperate times and sometimes call for desperate measures.
But if you can't verify for sure, without a doubt, that you know what powder you have.
IMO
I would at least be putting the first couple rounds in a gun I am not going to cry over to much, on a sled and pull the trigger from at least 10 feet away with a string. Then checking the cases for pressure signs before proceeding.
Just sayin', would not want to be seeing any, "hey look at my new scar" picks being posted.:eek:
Be safe
You're right, I have plenty of scars already. I heard chicks like scars but I'm too old and tired for that nonsense.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
871 Posts
Thanks. I have been checking and some say M8600 is the same as WC860. The old stuff burns really slow and some claim it's a dirty powder, but good for overbore cartridges and easier on barrel life. I would like to use it instead of my 4831 and 4350 powders, just for plinking. If your buddy wants it, I'm not too far from Ok. Maybe a trade for primers etc?
I heard back from him, he says it is 50 BMG powder and would work for 25-06 to 270 but is best for 7 mag and 300 mags, but he does not have actual burn rate data. I will ask him about trade items, but he does not have extra primers. He and I have a deal that if either of us finds primers at a decent price we will buy everything we can get and immediately call the other if there is a limit.

I would not be afraid to test of for pressures like I said at #2850 above. There is not much risk unless it were pistol powder. I have used unknown powders before, again just extimate the burn rate if 8700 4350 or whatever. Then use a very light bullet, cast if you have them, and the lowest powder charge in manuals that is listed for the heaviest load. Example, if you are going to test in a 30-06, use a 100 grain bullet for the 30 carbine, and use the powder load listed as the lightest load in the charts for 220 grain bullet. Even if your burn rate guess is way off, your safety margin should be just fine. Just my 2 cents.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ron The Legend

·
<------------<<<-
Joined
·
3,919 Posts
I finally scored some Barnes TAC bullets for my 300blk! I got 120’s. I would have preferred the 110’s, but only because I already know my gun likes them.

Other than that, I have not pulled the lever for over a month, now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,086 Posts
I heard back from him, he says it is 50 BMG powder and would work for 25-06 to 270 but is best for 7 mag and 300 mags, but he does not have actual burn rate data. I will ask him about trade items, but he does not have extra primers. He and I have a deal that if either of us finds primers at a decent price we will buy everything we can get and immediately call the other if there is a limit.

I would not be afraid to test of for pressures like I said at #2850 above. There is not much risk unless it were pistol powder. I have used unknown powders before, again just extimate the burn rate if 8700 4350 or whatever. Then use a very light bullet, cast if you have them, and the lowest powder charge in manuals that is listed for the heaviest load. Example, if you are going to test in a 30-06, use a 100 grain bullet for the 30 carbine, and use the powder load listed as the lightest load in the charts for 220 grain bullet. Even if your burn rate guess is way off, your safety margin should be just fine. Just my 2 cents.
I may play a little with "I have this old gun". If I don't like the results, I'll let you know and maybe your buddy would be interested. Thanks for checking. Ron
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
871 Posts
I may play a little with "I have this old gun". If I don't like the results, I'll let you know and maybe your buddy would be interested. Thanks for checking. Ron
OK, I will be talking to him over the weekend. If he is really interested I will PM you his email address. Have you ever compared burn rates with burn lines? I think you need 3 or 4 known rifle powders and burn long lines, like maybe 10 inches each. Might get you in the ballpark by bracketing the unknown one. I would try it before I let 8 lbs get away. Gunpowder Burn Rate Test - Bing video

I bought another pound at Bass Pro Yesterday, not what I wanted and they only had 1 pound that would work, IMR 4831, about $34. One pound limit but they only had that one pound so guess it did not matter. 4831 is not a normal power for me, however, it works in my 257 and 300 Wby so it will be gone quick.

Looking at pressure data for the 8700 powder in the 45-70 it looks like 60 grains of 8700 has about the same pressure as 45 grains of 4350 powder. So, if your 8600 is named as was traditional then 45-70 might be a safe place to start. Good luck.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,503 Posts
Casting, inspecting, then coating. Then reinspecting some . 224 slick side. Plain based,60 grain, polyester jacketed bullets, for the AR15.
 
2741 - 2760 of 2803 Posts
Top