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What kind of groups do you get with this load? I have both components but haven't made 9x18 test loads yet.
I rarely shoot my carry guns on paper, but the CZ 82 will put every bullet on the 6" steel plate at 10 yds. rapid fire. with the little P-64 I have to slow down a bit but it's still minuet of bad guy's head. even at 25 yds. with the CZ 82, I can hit a coconut or right next to it off hand every shot.
I haven't had a chance to chronograph the 4 gr. of Bullseye yet but my former load of 3.8 gr. averaged 1050 fps. and 233 ft. lbs. of energy. I'm hoping to wring every ft. lb. out of the little pipsqueak round.
 

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I failed casting bullets today. First, I tried smoking my Lee molds with some dollar store matches and it not only took a long time to smoke my cleaned aluminum molds but it left an oily residue than a black soot layer. The bullets kept on casting with a wrinkle. I switched over to Diamond wooden matches and the surface was then evenly covered. After a few pours to heat my mold, my spout plugged up a lot. I gave up, deciding to clean my pot out and clear the spout out poperly; thinking about maybe buying some valve grinding compound so the stem will seat better.
I have a lot of the Lee aluminum molds and like them as well as the steel molds, and you can get them in 6 cavity which is a big deal. I have other aluminum molds in buckshot, 18 cavity molds in #4 , 0 , 00 , and 000 buck. Those molds are long and hard to get 100% of the cavities to fill. That said, I gave up on the smoking long ago. I have used cooking spray and it works OK to help with getting a better result. You also add a squirt to cool down the mold.

I normally I Just stick one end of the mold into the pot and throw away the first couple of tries and when the temp is right they get a high percent of good rounds. I use wheel weights, range scrap and commercial mixes. For the buck shot I do not care, as long as it looks round. On some rounds like fun loads in the 45-70 I use the cheapest scrap and do not mind a little wrinkle. In handguns I want a good smooth finish so I use the alloy mix. Just set the mold end in the hot lead works for me until ut heats up then the molding process levels it out. With the multi cavity molds they do get too hot and need to be cooled down. Water quench everything I cast now and it works for me. You need to keep your water pot a couple feet from the mold just for safety. Just my way.
,
 

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I haven't had a chance to chronograph the 4 gr. of Bullseye yet but my former load of 3.8 gr. averaged 1050 fps. and 233 ft. lbs. of energy. I'm hoping to wring every ft. lb. out of the little pipsqueak round.
the wind is blowing hard and I can't work so I got to chronograph some loads today. among them were the 9mm Makarov loads 4 gr. of Bullseye mentioned above. I shot them out of my newest looking CZ 82 (it came looking unissued with the spare mag. still wrapped in plastic!) and my IJ 70 Makarov pistol. interesting was the difference in velocity between the polygonal rifled CZ 82 and the cut rifling IJ 70' barrels.
out of the CZ 82 the 95 gr. plated bullets averaged 1026 fps. & 221 ft lbs. out of the IJ 70 they averaged 982 fps. & 203 ft. lbs. the 95 gr. XTP s averaged 1077 fps & 244 ft lbs. out of the CZ 82 and 981 fps. & 203 ft. lbs. out of the IJ 70. not a lot of difference from my old loading but every pound counts with these pocket pistols. I should have also brought one of my P-64 pistols and chronoed these loads out of it but I wasn't thinking that far ahead.
 

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actually, I have been doing a lot more on the reloading bench the last couple of days. I was looking through my ammo stash and opened a can with a bunch of odd loadings of .30/06 ammo. this ammo went through Hurricane Georges in 1998. it was in a plastic O ring sealed 25mm cannon ammo box. it was hidden in the woods before the storm. it went under about 3 ft. of sea water and was lost for about 5 months. when I found and opened it, the factory ammo's cardboard boxes were damp. the 180gr & 220 gr. reloads in plastic boxes weren't damp but had tarnished. apparently, the O rings leaked just enough to let a little moisture in. I had no problems with dampness with the ammo stored in steel GI ammo cans that went through the same ordeal. I cleaned them all up and tossed the worst looking ones. I put them in a GI ammo can. yesterday when I opened that can I about 💩 . the cardboard boxes were moldy, the inside of the ammo can was rusty, and all the ammo varied from badly tarnished to corroded green! 😨 some of the 220 gr. was the green stuff so I pulled the bullets to use in 300 BLK subsonic loads. it was so bad that 2 of the cases pulled apart rather than releasing the bullet in the bullet puller! a lot of the other cases had holes corroded through them, but the bullets came out with no problem. I added their powder to the "burn" jug and put the bullets in the tumbler. the 180 & 150 gr. ammo went into the dry tumbler and cleaned up O.K. now I'm sorting it all out and will put it into another steel ammo can for storage. when I get a chance, I will take the worst looking stuff out and shoot it up to see how it functions. if the crappy stuff still shoots good, I MIGHT still use the other stuff for hunting but most likely just for range ammo.
 

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I am blessed with too many projects! Been making a USA flag, on an old wood pallet, while the paint has been drying, I've had time to size some .38 Spl. cases, and tried to clean off one of my work benches. Swept up some sawdust, to use in the lead pot. Been too hot to do any casting the last few days.
 

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Two weeks ago I pulled out the hardest lead ingots I made from range scrap, seasoned for a few months, and cast using my Lee 40-170gr mold. Last week I powder painted them with two coats of orange because the first coat was blotchy. Even then, the surface is not mirror smooth like other bullet casters that powder coat. I sized and weight sorted 600 bullets today. 500 weighed 182/183gr or so, 100 weighed 186/186gr or so, and I removed 10 outliers. Maybe there were bubbles or the them was way off. Next weekend I'll assemble some test loads at various seating depths since I already have an accuracy load using Blue Dot, AA5 and Bullseye.
 

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I bought a Lee Factory Crimp die for .44 Mag. to see if I could keep jacketed bullets from moving out during recoil. so I loaded up some hot test loads with a variety of jacketed bullets I have on hand. I will test fire them next time the wind blows and I can't work.
 

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I bought a Lee Factory Crimp die for .44 Mag. to see if I could keep jacketed bullets from moving out during recoil. so I loaded up some hot test loads with a variety of jacketed bullets I have on hand. I will test fire them next time the wind blows and I can't work.
You’ll be happy with it. Those FCD’s are the 💩
 
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I hope so. unless I load real light loads, which I seldom do, I have to use cast bullets in the .44 or by the 4th round fired the bullets are coming out of the cases and jamming the revolver.
I have used and been happy with the FCD in 300 BLK but they are crimped for the opposite reason, bullets being driven INTO the case during chambering.
 

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I necked down 200 cases for my new 2Fity Hillbilly build, and annealed around 400 other cases that needed it.
Now, I'm heading out to the shop and load up some test loads for the 2Fity using Reloader 16 to push the Berger 135 gr Hybrid bullets.
 

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loaded up some of the first batch of 230 gr. .30 bullets I cast & powder coated the other day. I loaded them with 12 gr. of CFE BLK powder. I didn't get to chronograph them
Blaster, help me understand the reason for powder coating your bullets. Here's thoughts running through my mind:
  • Increases the diameter of your projectile by how much
  • Does it seriously affect/increase chamber pressures
  • Wouldn't the heat generated during ignition and launch instantly burn the powder coating at the base end of your bullet and transform it into a carbonized abrasive
  • Does the powder coating foul up the barrel
  • Do you breathe the vapors from the burnt powder coating
  • What are the benefits of powder coating vs. bullet lube

Blaster, I'd be interested in reading your range report after Chrono testing and post on G&G. I use jacketed bullets so your post really piqued my interest.
Take care and have fun
// Wicked109
 

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Contemplating some more on Blaster's post, I mentioned I used jacketed bullets and I know it is easy to anodize metals with different colors. I will have to do some reading on anodizing copper. Wicked's thoughts...Color coding your rounds
  • Color coding different batches by bullet weights of same caliber
  • Subsonic rounds - easy to identify
  • Cool factor on the range
  • Still pondering...:cool:
 

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Yesterday I powder coated .357 - 125gr bullets and after letting them cool for awhile, I returned and resized them to .357 for my 9mm and .358 for my .357 magnum. Then I made test loads with them. Today I'll assemble 40-160gr LHP testloads using 6.6gr AA5 to be shot into jugs of water and one jug of wet newspaper.
 

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Blaster, help me understand the reason for powder coating your bullets. Here's thoughts running through my mind:
  • Increases the diameter of your projectile by how much
  • Does it seriously affect/increase chamber pressures
  • Wouldn't the heat generated during ignition and launch instantly burn the powder coating at the base end of your bullet and transform it into a carbonized abrasive
  • Does the powder coating foul up the barrel
  • Do you breathe the vapors from the burnt powder coating
  • What are the benefits of powder coating vs. bullet lube

Blaster, I'd be interested in reading your range report after Chrono testing and post on G&G. I use jacketed bullets so your post really piqued my interest.
Take care and have fun
// Wicked109
[/Quote/)
I'll try to go down your list to answer your questions:
powder coating can increase the diameter of the bullet. sometimes this has a purpose but if you run the bullet through a sizing die, it won't.
I have no way of measuring chamber pressure but since powder coating replaces and acts as a lubricant, I doubt it rases pressure.
powder coating does not burn. on recovered bullets that have hit a soft target, the coating looks pretty much as it did when you loaded it minus rifling marks and dings.
powder coating's main purpose is to prevent fouling.
p.c. seals the lead from the hot gasses and protects from harmful vapors.
p.c. is better than regular lube because it doesn't make the bullets sticky and collect grit or rub off when handled.
in short, powder coating does everything a gilded metal jacket does except control expansion.
many shooters do use it to color code their bullets. so far, I have only used the Ford Blue color because I'm told it is the same powder that Ford uses on their engine parts and supposedly is more heat resistant.
 

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for some reason, my answer is buried in the above quote.?


blaster: Sir; I took the liberty 🧐 Craig

I'll try to go down your list to answer your questions:
powder coating can increase the diameter of the bullet. sometimes this has a purpose but if you run the bullet through a sizing die, it won't.
I have no way of measuring chamber pressure but since powder coating replaces and acts as a lubricant, I doubt it rases pressure.
powder coating does not burn. on recovered bullets that have hit a soft target, the coating looks pretty much as it did when you loaded it minus rifling marks and dings.
powder coating's main purpose is to prevent fouling.
p.c. seals the lead from the hot gasses and protects from harmful vapors.
p.c. is better than regular lube because it doesn't make the bullets sticky and collect grit or rub off when handled.
in short, powder coating does everything a gilded metal jacket does except control expansion.
many shooters do use it to color code their bullets. so far, I have only used the Ford Blue color because I'm told it is the same powder that Ford uses on their engine parts and supposedly is more heat resistant.
 

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for some reason, my answer is buried in the above quote.?
blaster: Sir; I took the liberty 🧐 Craig
Blaster, thanks for the response and the answers that provided a great deal of logic and reasoning, that really helped. Blaster -Thanks again and Craig, thank you for your behind the scenes magic as well.

I have forever been scarred by one of your answers...Ford Blue did you know that is almost the exact color the AF uses to denote Inert items color Blue 15102 (the first digit 1 denotes gloss (a 2 would be semi gloss, and 3 would be matt or flat). The second digit 5 denotes Blue based on the colors of the rainbow ROYGBIV 1234567 Red Orange Yellow Green Blue Indigo Violet. The 102 equals the 102nd lighter shade of blue. Insignia Blue was 15045, is a much darker Blue.

I am going to pass on what I learned from you to others in the Ammo community. A Blue Ford Tractor is Inert. :D
 
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