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finally figured out a load and put about 800 of them together.
would have been a lot easier if i could have accessed the club instead of having to drive 8 miles out of town to shoot the top of a bush.
not locked out,,, too much snow.
 

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Taking inventory and getting ready to load some rifle rounds for an upcoming pig hunt with my Son. He wants me to load him up some .350 legend and 6.5 Grendel. Looks like I have plenty of everything I need .

May also load up some .223 with 65 grain Sierra Gamekings.
 

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almost finished off the first box of 9mm bullets.
starting in on cleaning more 9mm brass.
not sure which one i'll run out of first it looks pretty close to even from here.
 

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Today it was sunny so I don't cast at home. I drove to my mother's and met with my older brother and cast fishing weights with range scrap misc. pieces. Meanwhile, I cast 8 ingots of JHP cores to later be used for 45-200 SWC and 38-148WC bullets.
 

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More test loads for the 1911. 220 grain lead powder coated RN.Pushed by RedDot. And the same with Universal and Long Shot. Then dido with some 220 grain PC LHP.

Some more 200 grain SWC with Red Dot., And with Universal.

Got a hundred bucks left this week.
Plan on searching for Unique, Universal, or Winchester 224. Later.
 

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MSR Shooter and Builder, Precision Bolt Action Rim & Center Fire enthusiast. Glock & 1911 pistoleer
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Yesterday afternoon I got my last stage of test loads done for my .45ACP +p project.
So I'll have to find out today how close I can get to 950-1000fps with a 230gr XTP JHP using Ramshot Enforcer.
 

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finally done with the 9's jaysus.
still have a shoe box full of brass,, one of these days i'll make some more bullets.

gotta decide what to do next, i got 45 acp, and 357's sitting there.
maybe do up that box of 351 WSL's or some 300 BO's, or some 30 carbine or 30-30's.
 

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got the 45's cleaned and ready to roll.
there's only like 5-600 large pistol brass, not sure i want to make the caliber swap for that few.

i do have an ice cream bucket crammed full of small pistol cases though, have to see what i got for bullets i know i got one box full of 230's here somewhere, enough for the LP cases.
maybe have some 225's or 180's, i know i got a grundle of 165's.

i pulled down some 7x57's yesterday and re-done them in a new load today, plus prepped/primed another 50 0-6 cases.
i just couldn't pull the trigger on loading them.
i guess if i ever need something other than what i've been using i can just put them together at that time.

probably put some lighter 38's together, i've always liked shooting those.
 

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Shot a crap load of test loads for the 45 ACP 1911. Different weights and types. Good thing about my Son's Girsan, it will feed everything 45acp I throw at it.
But after about 3 hrs at the range shooting 5 different bullets loaded to 3 different grain weights with Red Dot, Universal, and Long Shot.
Well figured out the best round for that gun Is powder coated 220 grain lee or Lyman LSWC. At 1.225 coal with 6.7 +-.1 Grain of Long Shot and CCI Spp, and 1.468 Taper Crimp.
That load is within published Data by a few different sources. But it is close to the top load of 6.9 grain which just opened the group back up.
So going to try and aquire that mould so I can get to casting.



Currently working on referbishing a new to me. Gifted Pre 85
MEC600 Jr to do my 20guage shot loading with. Was in storage for years, so.... A few things were missing or not 100%. So needs a little TLC. Cleaning, lubing, and refurbing some parts. Plus a couple Modifications. To get it just where I want it, on a budget. Goal is to have it running right for under 60bucks.
 

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get the manual...
i can't tell from the pic but i think your missing the final roll portion of the crimp.
it's a little C-looking piece that goes on the final cup and is activated by a small cam.
it maybe be on towards the back instead of the side though i can't tell from the picture.
either way the manual explains how it works and how to adjust it,,, that's the part everyone screws up and can't figure out.

also the wad seating stem.
make damn sure you got that clamp set and tightened down like you hate it.... cause you will if it starts slipping around.

oh get you some wad fingers.
if you don't have extras the one you have will get mushed and cause you all sorts of what thehells..

otherN that i know nuthin about Mec loaders.
oh get you one of those bottle clamps, and a cookie sheet mounted under the machine..
now,,, otherNthat i got nuthin sept take a picture the first time you tip the bottles back..... LOL

i done nuthin on the loadin bench today.
i made about 600 200gr. 44 bullets and about 200 200gr 35 cal. bullets in the casting shop.
think i'll set the 44's to the side till i get some more 'stuff' [other bullets] put together then powder coat them for my 44-40 lever rifle.
 

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The roll crimp works fine. The die is of a 2 piece design. C clamp looking on the back of the die. The cam pushes the body of the die down to complete the crimp. The fellow that gave me the press had it adjusted just right for 2 3/4. Makes a real nice tight crimp.

I have brass wad fingers that look like they are part of the die , the new ones are plastic. I wander if I would have to get a complete other die to make the plastic ones work? Or is there even an issue with the brass?
Right now just working on getting the first two stations working. No #529 primer punch or lower seating die.
One step at a time.
Got the original manual and a blow up parts sheet from 1979. Wish I could still get the stuff at those prices. Heck you could get a whole unit for $79.
Compete change over die set for $22.
 

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heck a whole brand new one was 129 bucks 5 years ago.
the only MEC i have left is the 3-1/2" steel master, i sent all the others i had down to Texas to a 4-H club maybe 10 years back now.

i seen that roll crimp piece in your other picture.

you'll know if you got a problem. you'll start hearing clicking and clacking when you insert a wad.
you can still get the fingers, you just unscrew the two halves and slip the new one in place.
pretty much all of them are the same [i use Hornady ones in my Ponsness Warrens]

otherwise the new style stuff will still fit that machine, but you end up changing out like 2 parts to get it done.
 

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Yea I have been checking into things. Figure get it up and running. A bit at a time then upgrade it a little at a time, aa things break or wear out. After it starts paying for itself.
A lot of new and used parts out there. I think I am in about 40 bucks to do that.
Was watching a fellow on youtube upgrade one to a Mark 5. A little Dremel work and about a hundred fifty bills and it's completely updated and functional. All new parts.
 
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