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you can use it to describe group size or drop or whatever.
I just use inches because my scopes click in parts of inches [except leupold, some of them turn in MOA but don't have clicks]
it's easier for me to remember to double the clicks at 50, half them at 200 and 1/3rd the amount for 300.
if I have a stainless barrel I write the drops on the barrel in permanent marker.
I mark some dot's on some of the scopes [like a zero type fancy target scope] and just turn to the dot count for the yardage.

other guy's use a paper taped to the stock, which works pretty well if you remember to turn the scope back to the initial setting after shooting.

and some try to use the bullet drop compensator in their scope.
they rarely correspond quite right, and remembering is a pain if you shoot more than one rifle with that scope.
 

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you can use it to describe group size or drop or whatever.
I just use inches because my scopes click in parts of inches [except leupold, some of them turn in MOA but don't have clicks]
it's easier for me to remember to double the clicks at 50, half them at 200 and 1/3rd the amount for 300.
if I have a stainless barrel I write the drops on the barrel in permanent marker.
I mark some dot's on some of the scopes [like a zero type fancy target scope] and just turn to the dot count for the yardage.

other guy's use a paper taped to the stock, which works pretty well if you remember to turn the scope back to the initial setting after shooting.

and some try to use the bullet drop compensator in their scope.
they rarely correspond quite right, and remembering is a pain if you shoot more than one rifle with that scope.
THANKS FOR THE INFO!:usa2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #584 ·
More transferring of old reloads from old cardboard boxes to new plastic ones. Today I was doing .38 special DEWC's I made in 2011/2012, and 10mm I did in 2015.
 
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I put together 50 more rounds of 38 special tonight. I'll need to buy more bullets soon, but I should be able to get another 1000 or more rounds out of this can of powder. I'm thinking of getting some wadcutters from Missouri Bullets. I'll have to get some pointed bullets for IDPA.

Just as I was finishing packing for my three day weekend, I came accross some factory loaded 38s and a bunch of brass for 38 and 357. The 38 brass is in the tumbler and will be run with whatever I shoot this weekend.
 
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Discussion Starter · #587 ·
IS that HBWC, DEWC, BBWC, or maybe even 158 grain semi-wadcutters?

I use 148 grain DEWC. I usually buy the plain ones with the two wax grooves, but lately I have been playing with some powder coated ones.
 
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Making my first batch of 148 dewc with a lee mold and pot I bought at a garage sale for 10 bucks. Got some wheel weights and line o type that I have had for years. pluss some unuseable bullets.
Do not know how to hardness test.:confused: I figure if I mix equal weight of all 3 I will be ok for low velocity target rounds.:cool:
DO NOT THINK I WILL NEED TO SIZE.:confused:
I have some pure carnauba (bees wax) car polish, I mean a lot of it. Its a real thick liquid, almost a paste. At one time I had the brilliant idea of being a detailproducts salesman and got stuck with it. Going to try that as bullet lube.
 

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Figure I have all this lead and semi-liquefied bees wax from past endeavers, may as well make some free bullets.
Also more cheap then lazy.;)
By the way, my $10 used Lee casting kit works just fine.Once I replaced the cord on the pot.
Never saw a mold made of aluminum before,as I only worked with industrial cast Iron molds and sinker molds(they are steel). I already had a bullet mold I got in a trade, but it was steal. and beat to death. I never tried to use it.Just tossed it.
:confused:So I had a learning curve.:confused:
First 2 rounds I had shrinkage and sticking but carberized the mold with my acetylene torch, them warmed up the mold a bit, and got temp right on the pot. Then 2 more rounds of bad ones to get my pour technique down.

Once you get the temp right on the lead and mold and prep the mold by carbonizing,it is all a mater of timing:cool:.

So addictive, and fun. Once I figured it out and got things going. I did not want to stop. Quite relaxing actually.:)
I now have about 200 good .358-148 grain good unlubed DEWC.:):) Not bad for about 2 hrs of spare time.

Don't know how well my liquefied. Carnauba car wax idea is going to work for lube but I have about 10 gallons of the stuff. So have to give it a try. Let you know how that goes.
Here is a tip.Do not try to handle bullets with your bare hands untill they have plenty of time to cool!:oops:
 

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I don't handload for cheaper cost (it isn't), but for better ammo quality and better selection of components.
Only one caliber of factory/issue ammo remains more accurate than my handloads/reloads, that being Swiss GP11. But I am getting closer each time I load for it!
 
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Did some research(surfing ) and found out that I can't use the wax by itself. But I can make lube with it. So looking at the ingredient list on my Wax: Carnauba, Bees wax, linseed oil, Petroleum distillates. I think I can formulate something.
 

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OK, just did the math for my .38 special loads I just cast bullets for.
I am shooting pistol rounds in a revolver and have a crap load of . 38 special brass so I don't clean brass.So no cost there.
Picked up My Winchester and Blazer brass at the range. So no cost there.
Figure my reloading press and scale, etc. have already paid for their self.
Including the cost of my garage sale bullet making kit $10 In this 200 wad cutters I just made. Paying myself $8 for my casting.
*Brass 0 cents
*Bullets 18/200= 9 cents
*Powder 5 cents
*Lube 1 cent
*Primers 2 cents
I can't count reloading because its therapy. 0 cents
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17 cents a round
What I can get 148 grain Wadcutes for locally. 46 cents a round
*Plus my loads are more accurate in my gun.
My next 3000 round(Figure I have enough supplies for that) will cost less, as the pot and mold are now paid for and the proses has become fun for me and a hobby.
About 8 cents per round.
So now, my current saving .29 cents a round.
To be fair...
I shot a lot of 9 mm last year before I purchased the .357 and the loading stuff traded off the 9. It cost me about 17 cents a round to shoot 9 mm.
But you are never going to buy .38 special for that.At least nothing I would ever shoot in my gun.
But I am shooting a far more accurate, easier to care for, trouble free, jam free,gun and ammunition now for the same price.
Using the 9 cents difference between 17 cents (what perfecta 9mm cost per round) and 8 cents (what my .38 special loads will cost) using the estimate of my current supplies,(enough to make 3000 cartriges) that is $270 I will be saving.:)
Comparing apples to apples. 29 cents savings on current .38 loads compared to store bought at 3000 rounds. That's $840:) That's the cost of the 1911 I want!!:D
 

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.308Win?
 

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Discussion Starter · #597 ·
I now have about 200 good .358-158 grain good unlubed DEWC.:):) Not bad for about 2 hrs of spare time.
Weird, most DEWC molds I have ever seen were 148 grains. Anyways you probably do need to lube them. Though I keep thinking if I ever do want to get off my butt and start casting, I think I would look into powder coating instead of lubing.
 

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IS that HBWC, DEWC, BBWC, or maybe even 158 grain semi-wadcutters?

I use 148 grain DEWC. I usually buy the plain ones with the two wax grooves, but lately I have been playing with some powder coated ones.
DEWC if that's double ended wad cutters. I haven't made up my mind, totally. I definitely will be getting some pointed bullets to load.
 
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