Whats the proper wood/color for stock?

Discussion in 'The Powder Keg' started by Anthony, Sep 16, 2002.

  1. Anthony

    Anthony Guest

    On a M1 dated from Nov./Dec. 1944, whats the proper stock suppose to be. This one has dark wood for the handgaurds but a Lighter wood for the main stock. I would like it to look correct for its time era. Can the stack be sanded and stained to change the color or would it be better to buy a used GI stock, and if so any leads on where to get one. By the way its a Winchester M1 if that matters.
    Also the front upper handgaurd is loose side to side how is the best to fix that?

    Thanks Anthony
  2. WildBill

    WildBill Guest

    I believe the stocks were dark during the war years. If you want it to look correct get the Stock Doc to work his magic on your firewood. I've seen his pics on this forum plus he is always willing to give good solid advice on the M1. As for the loose handguard, make sure the push pin is in the metal located between the upper and lower guards. Check the gas cyl too. HTH.


  3. You do NOT want a very tight front hand guard due to the fact that when the barrel get hot when you fire the rifle, it causes the wood to expand a little and put pressue on the barrel. This can cause your rifle to shoot inaccurately. The front hand guard should be a little loose.
  4. Stock Doc

    Stock Doc G&G Evangelist

    Thanks Wild Bill. From my experience WWII was oil only and built up a Patina {color} from dirt, oil dark Walnut. If any one has been around wood you will see Walnut come light and very dark natural colors. This is a natural dye that you will see in the Black Walnut fruit casing.
    Now if you want to match the colors blend until happy for a deep rich color of the 50's on up when dye or stain was used from all I have encountered. If the wood is real light is possibly Birch and best to find Walnut matching guards since it will be easier to get a light blend of colors with minimal stain used for WWII era rifles. I have had a chance to see many stocks that were not touched since WWII's end and were bought from the arsenal. The sat for many years until found and bought. These were without stain and many had except what appeared by Winchester as a possible blend of sorts on some. I base this on them using there techniques they employed on rifles for many years previous to there contract.
    If you look at Color film from WWII you will see the stocks are without stain and colors vary due to different tree's. Hope this helps. Rick B
  5. Anthony

    Anthony Guest

    How much to color stock?

    I'v seen Stock Docs web page and seen the pics of the stockes he does. What would it cost to get my stock and hand guards back to correct color. The guards are walnut the stock is birch.
    Are is this a thing I can do at home. My father-in-law is big into woodworkso he could help.
    Just need to know the procedures.

    thanks Anthony
  6. Stock Doc

    Stock Doc G&G Evangelist

    I can email you info on my prices {board doesn't want sales on this board} but I will tell you it isn't much more than a tank full of gas today + shipping and less if you have a large sports utility vehicle. Linseed oil is a different finish and needs to be worked in the stock wait 30 minutes then buffed off. You repeat this about every 24 hours until desired finish is on the stock. You need to douse rags in a water bucket or hang dry so they dont self combust {as I had happen once}. As for a Birch to Walnut match it is tough but can be done. I prefer complete matching wood sets since some woods just wont match perfectly. Birch was not seen on a Garand until about 1958 so it is not a War wood nor correct for any battle rifle before 1958. Email me if you have any other questions on my personal work I will be glad to answer. Thanks,,Rick B